well, i just put the block off plates on my car, and was wondering how to 'trick' all of those sensors that i am eliminating by blocking off the acv and the other solenoids that are congruent...

i know about the ones for the rats nest solenoids. they are 330 ohm 1/2 watt, with male connectors.

are they the same for all of them?

vosko....jspec....fd3....neone?

lou

 

I didn't use any resistors. I just put the solenoids on the plugs with no vacuum hoses on them. No check engine light.

 

I capped the vacuum hoses and left everything else alone. No ill affects so far *knocks on wood

 

I guess I better answer this since Vosko's single turbo and fd3boost is keeping his FD sequential for now.

...Do what JONSKI said and plug the solenoids into the plugs w/o attaching any vacuum hoses to them

 

i just used the same resistors... no problems with it settin codes...

 

I use 330ohm resistor that you can buy in Radio Shack for 99cents. They have 1/2 watt rating.
I did not leave any solenoids, I just put the resistor inside the solenoid connectors, and cover them with silicone tape.
They all work fine, except that I have california car, means the EGR will always trip ECU code 16. Need a relay to get rid of this.

 

i am not concerned with leaving solenoids that are unused in the car. just the ones from the nest for now. i am referring to the acv and **** under the uim. i have some resistors and just need to know the hook up configuration...where and how many resistors on the connectors...so forth and so on...


louis
louis

 

anyone know the correct way to plug in a resistor to trick the ecu????


anyone.......

louis

 

well if you read my freakin post.... all you do is use the 330 ohm resistors... one in place of each solenoid... if your gonna ask for help, read through the god damn posts....

 

look. you do not need to be a donkey. i read fine. my concern was with the number of resistors on the connectors and such. i was not sure whether to use one per terminal and so on......

go have a coke and a smile. do not flame me, this forum is here for help.

thanks for the reply, ej, even though you felt the need to talk to me like i am a 2year old, i am not. and you do not know me, therefore, do not let your mouth write a check that your *** can't cash ....

 

calm down. 330 is right. try it, have a coke and smile.

 

purchase the power fc ...

 

YES. Purchase the PFC.

 

PFC is expensive. Resistors are not only cheap, but they are ghetto .

 

lol.... im I can't have coke, mamma said so!

 

How are they ghetto? The ones I made for my car are Heat-Shrink Wrapped in black and lool all perdy!

 

ghetto is the radiator cooling duct that i ran to ensure that i had sufficient ari to the rad. after the fmic install.

but hey, IT DOES WORK....

coke is good.....whichever you partake in....

 

the acv jacks have different fork contacts than the rack solenoids. If I remember correctly, the acv side are female and the remaining receptacles are male.

Jonski:
just wonderin' how did you use the old attachments on the acv? did you unscrew them from the acv and connect them to the engine harness acv clips. this would seem cumbersome. i understand the solenoid idea to use unconnected ones....
thanks

 

cover8,
I think you're talking about the oddly shaped electrical connectors that go to the ACV. They have two pins: one is horizontal and one is vertical. There are three of them: two black and one white. I just left these disconected and I had no check engine light.

 

thanks JONSKI...really appreciate your help...

currently trying to remove the egr...man, how the hell do you get to the 10mm bolt on the abs/fender side? it seems difficult enough to get to the nut between the lim and secondary intake pipe!

thanks
nick

 

In order to get the EGR off you need to remove the secondary (rear) turbo inlet and the y-pipe. With the y-pipe in-place, you won't be able to slide the EGR off the studs, even if you manage to get the nuts off. Be sure to order a new EGR gasket, because they are made of paper. If you have long, thin arms and small ratchet with a 2" extension, then you can get the secondary turbo inlet off without even going under the car .

 

can i just leave the egr attached vac hose and all while having the other solenoids blocked? then i woud not have to remove anything

 

I'm not sure how the EGR works. Maybe it explains it in the shop manual, but here's a good reason to eliminate it.



[edit]One more thing... By removing your ACV, you should also unplug the electrical connector on your airpump, because it will no longer be supplying air to anything. If you let the airpump run with your ACV blocked off, then it's bearings will get stressed and it will seize! If you want to have a catylitic converter, then you will need to route the airpump to the hard pipe attached to the firewall side of the LIM with a one-way air valve. [/edit]

 

my airpump is out never to return....

thanks

 

digging this up....I have my 3 ACV connectors just hanging out with the ACV removed and no resistors in them. I don't have a check engine light, but sure enough when I check for codes, I still have 30, 33, 38, 39...I have resistors in the rack selonoids...
so...do I just put resistors in the 3 plugs to try and get rid of the codes? Do I connect the AVC connectors and just let it dangle?

Trev