ACT Xtreme Pressure Plate
ACT Xtreme Pressure Plate
This topic has been covered before but I thought I'd share my experience.
I have an ACT Xtreme PP/ACT 6 puck sprung hub clutch with a SR Motorsports (read Fidanza) 9.25# aluminum flywheel. The setup, as expected, is a little more difficult as a street setup but by no means is unbearable so long as you don't drive in constant traffic. The pedal is heavier and the engagement can be somewhat rough when first learning to drive with it. Once you get used to it, not bad.
Anyway...I always had a problem with clutch disengagement with this setup. Without adjusting the clutch rod to provide the maximum ?push? into the master cylinder, you couldn't put the car in gear while running. Talking with ACT they recommended things like remove the bump stop for the pedal in the car to get that little extra bit of movement. Or there's air in your line. Or your clutch line is flexing (I have a SS line). I didn't buy it. Thus....search (yeah I think the search feature on these forums is garbage, use Google): 'site:rx7club.com ACT Xtreme'.
It is well known that the Xtreme PP will/can cause the pull type clutch fork that the FD uses to break in several places. One is right at the dowel that the fork pivots on. The other is the arms/lobes that move the release bearing can snap off. Mazda realized this at some point and provided an upgrade to a 'Heavy Duty' clutch fork. Looking at the two clutch forks side by side, the new HD version has heat treated arms/lobes and is a little more stout. The radius of the lobe also seemed to be slightly greater than the old non HD version. Unfortunately I didn't take a side by side picture.
I don't live very close to my go to mechanic (KD-93R1 on these boards) so I decided to not take the risk of losing my clutch fork and being stranded. We pulled the tranny and swapped out the old clutch fork for a new HD version, OEM release bearing and OEM wedge collar assembly. Without changing any additional parts or bleeding the clutch, my new engagement point is right after the slop in the clutch pedal. It went from having to push the pedal to the floor to engaging right when you touch the pedal. I guess I can back out that clutch adjustment rod...
The old clutch fork had no cracks, did not appear to be bent or deformed in anyway.
FWIW if you are going to get a new clutch setup with a greater than OEM clamping force pressure plate DO NOT skip replacing your clutch fork with the new HD version. Call Ray Crowe.
I have an ACT Xtreme PP/ACT 6 puck sprung hub clutch with a SR Motorsports (read Fidanza) 9.25# aluminum flywheel. The setup, as expected, is a little more difficult as a street setup but by no means is unbearable so long as you don't drive in constant traffic. The pedal is heavier and the engagement can be somewhat rough when first learning to drive with it. Once you get used to it, not bad.
Anyway...I always had a problem with clutch disengagement with this setup. Without adjusting the clutch rod to provide the maximum ?push? into the master cylinder, you couldn't put the car in gear while running. Talking with ACT they recommended things like remove the bump stop for the pedal in the car to get that little extra bit of movement. Or there's air in your line. Or your clutch line is flexing (I have a SS line). I didn't buy it. Thus....search (yeah I think the search feature on these forums is garbage, use Google): 'site:rx7club.com ACT Xtreme'.
It is well known that the Xtreme PP will/can cause the pull type clutch fork that the FD uses to break in several places. One is right at the dowel that the fork pivots on. The other is the arms/lobes that move the release bearing can snap off. Mazda realized this at some point and provided an upgrade to a 'Heavy Duty' clutch fork. Looking at the two clutch forks side by side, the new HD version has heat treated arms/lobes and is a little more stout. The radius of the lobe also seemed to be slightly greater than the old non HD version. Unfortunately I didn't take a side by side picture.
I don't live very close to my go to mechanic (KD-93R1 on these boards) so I decided to not take the risk of losing my clutch fork and being stranded. We pulled the tranny and swapped out the old clutch fork for a new HD version, OEM release bearing and OEM wedge collar assembly. Without changing any additional parts or bleeding the clutch, my new engagement point is right after the slop in the clutch pedal. It went from having to push the pedal to the floor to engaging right when you touch the pedal. I guess I can back out that clutch adjustment rod...
The old clutch fork had no cracks, did not appear to be bent or deformed in anyway.
FWIW if you are going to get a new clutch setup with a greater than OEM clamping force pressure plate DO NOT skip replacing your clutch fork with the new HD version. Call Ray Crowe.
Just so my entire clutch/hydraulic setup is in this post I have:
ACT Extreme PP and 6 puck sprung hub clutch
Fidanza 9.5# flywheel
New OEM HD clutch fork
New OEM Wedge collar and ring
New OEM Release bearing
New OEM Clutch master and slave cylinder
Stainless steel clutch line
I had all of the new components, with the exception of the HD fork, installed for almost 2 years.
ACT Extreme PP and 6 puck sprung hub clutch
Fidanza 9.5# flywheel
New OEM HD clutch fork
New OEM Wedge collar and ring
New OEM Release bearing
New OEM Clutch master and slave cylinder
Stainless steel clutch line
I had all of the new components, with the exception of the HD fork, installed for almost 2 years.
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