kuning

I've been searcing some posts regarding the ACT clutches. Mainly the S/S ZX3-HD00 and The Extreme(ZX3-XT00).

I've read so many comments favouring the S/S and seems to be the commonly used by you all but
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...T+clutch<br />
gave the the creeps especially when I'm from Australia and have to import the ACT. So I don't want anything bad to happen once I replaced the clutch.

I haven't heard/ found much about The Extreme though. Anyone here have any experience with The Extreme?

What I'm after is a clutch that would hold about max 400 hp (I know this isn't the right thing to compare a clutch) not that I want to go for 400hp goal but something that would last long with my aggressive driving but still driveable and not a PITA to drive.

Another thing is
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=ACT+clutch
regarding the clutch fork commented by FDNewbie. Since I'm in Australia, how do I know if the clutch fork I'm getting from the dealer is the upgraded one? Do they have different parts #? Or they're all upgraded forks?

And oh, is the 'clutch fork' the same thing as 'wedge collar'?

Also, would you consider to get a flywheel as well? I will be driving the car 'pretty often' but not to a 'daily drive' extend. So stop and go traffic, uphill,etc

My apology if I sound stupid but it's just that I'm new to all this mechanical bits so your help would be much appreciated.


P.S. Just some to let you know. I finally decided to keep the FD. The car's still up for sale for another month or so. But if no one wants it (considering the damages and the price i ask for) I'll keep the car and start working on it.

kuning

bump

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The ACT S/S will be the best fit.

The stock fork will be just fine for the S/S clutch. It's the tougher heavy duty pucks that can kill the forks.

No, they are two different components.

It really depends on what you do with the car. People suggest that if you are thinking about doing the flywheel, do it at the same time as the clutch since you are already right there.

kuning

Thanks Mahjik, so does this mean I don't have to replace the clutch fork and the wedge collar when I install the S/S clutch?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I've heard that the new ACT clutch kits come with a new wedge collar. Mine didn't but I bought mine over 2 years ago.

You only need to replace your fok if the current one is damaged.

WildCard342

Hi,
I was wondering if you had checked to see if there was any difference to the US kits since their left hand drive Kuning??

Just curious myself,

Gordon

atihun

I had the SS in my car for about 30K. Worked great but much harder pedal than stock.

Also, my clutch fork broke. I took out the clutch thinking it went out to find one of the forks just snapped off. The clutch disk and pressure plates had almost no wear after 30K. I would attribute it to the increased pressure required to disengage the clutch.

However, the clutch fork does have a design flaw in that there's a hole drilled for a pin right in one of the forks.

People with 400rwhp have noted that their ACT SS cluthes slip. At 400hp (350rwhp) you should be okay. I was worried about the same and went with a more streetable twin plate setup.

atihun

If anyone cares:

Retserof

iTrader: (1)

Atihun, how did it break?

Were the tips of the fork bluish in color? (Can't tell from the photo, but one tip looks blue.)

I looked at my 94's fork through the inspection hatch and saw that the tips of the fork looked bluish, like they had been heat tempered.

Is the current factory part stronger?

atihun

You can see in the picture above that the tips stayed intact; the breaking point was where one of the forks goes to the center section. For some reason, I think for a fastening point, they drilled there and put a pin in it.

Retserof

iTrader: (1)

I see that. Was this break due to a heavy duty or race clutch?

I'd read in another thread that the there was a stronger version of this part and that it had been heat treated, so I was wondering if that was why the tips were blue on mine.

atihun

The blue is from the heat cycling / friction. I was using an ACT Street Strip Clutch Disk and ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate.

This was from a stock 94, and I'm not sure of a treated version.

Retserof

iTrader: (1)

Which takes this thread back to Kuning's original post asking about ACT clutches. I'm also thinking about getting the ACT S/S clutch, but now I'm not so sure that's a good idea if it will snap the fork. My car is almost stock, so another factory clutch setup should be ok.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Mahjik, I beg to differ. I have the ACT HD S/S, and it snapped my clutch fork. In fact, I bet ya if you do a quick search, the majority of owners here w/ clutch forks broken had 'em break shortly after installing an ACT HD S/S clutch. In fact, you don't have to look far. Just a few threads down... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/broke-down-highway-440079/#post4530596

Get the clutch fork. It's $65 from Ray @ Malloy Mazda. Get it shipped w/ the clutch. You don't want to have to go through all the labor again. It's not worth the risk.

BTW, if I were you, I wouldn't waste time w/ ACT. You're in Australia, you'll pay CRAZY shipping and importation tax, customs, blah blah. Go to www.gurumotorsports.com These guys are THE BEST down under. They make clutches, flywheels, trannys, e-shafts, the works. And they're local to ya!

~Ramy

kuning

Thanks peeps.

Ramy, yes I'm considering gurumotorsports' product too. Still comparing which one would end up cheaper.

kuning

Is the upgraded fork only available from Malloy or is it standard upgraded fork available from Mazda?

kuning

I don't think they will be different coz the gearbox position is the same. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the different is just up to the gear lever. My apologize if I'm wrong.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

A stock part break when used with an aftermarket part? Naw!

However, considering the number of S/S clutches running on this forum, the amount of broken forks is FAR less. It's just the same as the number of "bad Autometer gauges". You see more of those because they sell more.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

No it's a standard part at Mazda. None of the dealerships stock them (except prob Malloy). BUT, they rape us in price as it is. Once they hear you're from Australia, you might as well fly down and pick it up yourself, cuz the price diff won't be much But seriously, Ray has THE cheapest prices on all stock parts from Mazda. That's why you'd wanna go to Ray @ Malloy. It's $65. Other dealerships, I'd say it can EASILY be $90 - $120. I usually find the parts are just a bit shy of double the price at other dealerships, compared to Malloy.

Mahjik, point well taken.

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

I paid $77 for mine from Malloy, but I ordered from another guy since Ray wasn't available. Also got charged for shipping Ray is the man, should have waited for him.

Anyway, like all the others have said, if you are using an aftermarket clutch you should go ahead and put in a new clutch fork.

Retserof

iTrader: (1)

Afterburn27, my local dealer quoted $103.37 plus 5.5% sales tax for the fork. You still got a good deal. Malloy now charges $5 shipping on all orders under a certain amount. ($130 or $140?)