accuracy of power fc temperature gauge false readings
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accuracy of power fc temperature gauge false readings
I have had the power fc installed for about 7 years now, I also have an aftermarket gauge installed as insurance plumbed into the rear of the manifold. And I have noiticed that my power fc and my my aftermarket gauge have significantly differing measurements. I haven't really paid much mind to it but as it has been getting hotter in my area than usual. My coolant temperatures have been rising and my reading on power fc is showing ridiculous measurements. Just today my manual gauge showed about 220 feremheit but my pfc was showing 115 which is almost 240 fereneit, so I don't know which one to trust but I think my pfc is reading innaccuaretly.
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
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The PowerFC reads from the ECU's coolant temp sensor at the back of the water pump housing. I doubt the PowerFC will be reading inaccurately, the sensor could be going bad or something.
What brand is your gauge? I'd trust the PFC over a cheap gauge.
Regardless, you really need to look at your cooling system. Either one of those temps would have me pulling off the road.
Dale
What brand is your gauge? I'd trust the PFC over a cheap gauge.
Regardless, you really need to look at your cooling system. Either one of those temps would have me pulling off the road.
Dale
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well here is the thing, I do pull over. I was getting 104C yesterday according to the pfc in traffic, and about 210 on the gauge. I couldn't get out of traffic so I finally got to the freeway where I figured I would be able to cool down from higher speeds and it worked. So finally when I got home temp started rising again towards entering slower speed to about 102C pfc, 215 gauge. Now here is where I noticed the major difference as soon as I shut down with fans on the pfc skyrockets, and the gauge actually rises for a lil bit to 220 subsiding temperatures within a min or so. So I got one gauge going up in temp, the pfc 114, and another gauge going down, the autometer from 220 down. Now I would assume that temperature would raise slightly after shutdown do to waterpump not pumping but not to the degree the pfc is showing. I will definitely get a new sensor.
thanks guys.
thanks guys.
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if the sensor was bad, that would cause the fans not to come on and overall temps would be higher
but if you were driving on the highway, that might be more than one issue
before you order and pay for a radiator, replace the sensor and verify everything is working as you may need a new waterpump or thermostat as well
but if you were driving on the highway, that might be more than one issue
before you order and pay for a radiator, replace the sensor and verify everything is working as you may need a new waterpump or thermostat as well
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i have the same setup, PFC and aftermarket pod temp guage, and the PFC always reads warmer than the other guage. i just assumed it's due to where the sensor is tapped, they must be in different places.
as for shutdown, if its hot out, and engine has been running awhile, temps skyrocket after shutdown, since the coolant isnt moving, fans arent on, no airflow, etc.
in 100f+ fl heat, my car cruises around 89c, but about 10 mins AFTER shutdown, if i restart the car, pfc temp will be 112c-114c, then quickly drop back down to <89c within a minute as the cooling system starts flowing. my entire cooling system is new... radiator, hoses, pettit AST, pressure caps, etc etc... so i assume this is normal that the coolant heats up dramatically after shutting the engine off.
the stock radiator sucks anyway, so even if its working ok, it doesnt hurt to upgrade it, especially if youll be modding more in the future.
i picked up a Koyo (standard one, not n-flow) for $275 locally, and with no other changes to my system it dropped temps according to my PFC by 8c on average.
in the meantime you can do this. old radiators get their fins gunked up and covered with road grime and drit, hurting their efficiency. its kinda tough to do, but if you use a high-pressure spray and blast your radiator from the back-side, it flushes dirt and crud out the front of the front of the fins, and can improve your cooling. make sure you dont spray it from the front, that will just force dirt further into the fins.
as for shutdown, if its hot out, and engine has been running awhile, temps skyrocket after shutdown, since the coolant isnt moving, fans arent on, no airflow, etc.
in 100f+ fl heat, my car cruises around 89c, but about 10 mins AFTER shutdown, if i restart the car, pfc temp will be 112c-114c, then quickly drop back down to <89c within a minute as the cooling system starts flowing. my entire cooling system is new... radiator, hoses, pettit AST, pressure caps, etc etc... so i assume this is normal that the coolant heats up dramatically after shutting the engine off.
i picked up a Koyo (standard one, not n-flow) for $275 locally, and with no other changes to my system it dropped temps according to my PFC by 8c on average.
in the meantime you can do this. old radiators get their fins gunked up and covered with road grime and drit, hurting their efficiency. its kinda tough to do, but if you use a high-pressure spray and blast your radiator from the back-side, it flushes dirt and crud out the front of the front of the fins, and can improve your cooling. make sure you dont spray it from the front, that will just force dirt further into the fins.
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#8
SideWayZ The Only Way
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Your temp is really running hot for normal driving, in Florida weather I get 85c-87c on my PFC , did you ever have someone with a dataloggit lower when the fans kick on? It it would be a good idea to get a fluidyne or koyo radiator, might not happen to you but my stock radiator gave out on me, got a fluidyne and it helped alot, along with a new thermostat.
also when I get home from driving I do a cool down method in which I turn the car off. Then turn the key to on to get the fans running and open the hood. Let that do that for about 5 mins or so, come out and look at the PFC and instead Of the temp jumping up to 110c it's in the high 90s. Again I only do this when Im home not anywhere else, prob not needed but I do it anyways.
Then I start it 1 last time to get the coolant running for 20 seconds and drops the temps back to the 80s and it doesn't really jump up after that.
also when I get home from driving I do a cool down method in which I turn the car off. Then turn the key to on to get the fans running and open the hood. Let that do that for about 5 mins or so, come out and look at the PFC and instead Of the temp jumping up to 110c it's in the high 90s. Again I only do this when Im home not anywhere else, prob not needed but I do it anyways.
Then I start it 1 last time to get the coolant running for 20 seconds and drops the temps back to the 80s and it doesn't really jump up after that.
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well in washington you would expect to be cooler but the area I'm at is 98F lately, which these past couple weeks surprisingly is hotter than it's been all summer.
I do plan on changing the stock radiator as I don't trust it anyway, and I know it's one of the best reliabilty mods you can do for the fd, especially if it will lower temps 9C's
as for the fans I have two aftermarket electric ones and have them wired directly to the ignition to run at all times on high and when I shut it down I leave the ignition on for about 10m.
I do plan on changing the stock radiator as I don't trust it anyway, and I know it's one of the best reliabilty mods you can do for the fd, especially if it will lower temps 9C's
as for the fans I have two aftermarket electric ones and have them wired directly to the ignition to run at all times on high and when I shut it down I leave the ignition on for about 10m.
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-wait, you did what?
it is probably not a good idea to run the fans on all the time, at least it is not necessary
either way, you have another issue to deal with
be sure to post back when you solve it
-oh, and if you are going to pull the radiator, might as well relocate the battery to the trunk
I think it's a worthwhile mod
it is probably not a good idea to run the fans on all the time, at least it is not necessary
either way, you have another issue to deal with
be sure to post back when you solve it
-oh, and if you are going to pull the radiator, might as well relocate the battery to the trunk
I think it's a worthwhile mod
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