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About stock clutch steal plate side

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Old 11-02-11, 08:24 PM
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IL About stock clutch steal plate side

I was wondering if anyone knew...judging with a caliper not their eyeball... what mil on the pressure plate side of a stock clutch would need to be replaced at.
Long story short first time doing a clutch on a car period. Have done clutch plates on many bikes, this is much different as I'm finding out. thought it was the trans that went out at the strip 2 weekends ago. I pulled the trans and clutch tonight. trans shifts in and out of every gear fine. The clutch on the other hand has excessive heat marks on the pressure plate side and is less than .032 of an inch. I don't know what the stock mil measurements are for the pressure plate side but I'm guessing greater than .032 of an inch.
Next question probably a much easier one. if I were to purchase a stage 1 exedy clutch kit can I use the stock flywheel or would I have to go to an after market one?
Thanks for all your input.
Mods.
single Turbo conversion
Hmic
60mm wg adj. Preload
Pfc
rotary performance built and tuned engine 300rwhp
4inch exhaust Turbo back w/ resonator
all suspension done
Old 11-02-11, 09:00 PM
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most clutch kits are compatible with using the stock flywheel. and if they require an aftermarket/lightweight flywheel, it will be noted. especially note that the use of an aftermarket/lightweight fw will necessitate the purchase of the rear counterweight from an automatic transmission FD, which is most often noted as well when it comes to clutch kits for the FD.

Try searching for the thickness of the flywheel. I remember a few months back someone was getting their flywheel resurfaced and made note that there is a certain way to machine the flywheel IIRC.

But regardless if you are going with aftermarket or stock flywheel, be sure to replace the pilot bearing and seal and throwout bearing. nothing is more annoying than installing a new clutch assembly and having the whirring noise from reusing parts that are meant to be replaced "while youre in there"
Old 11-02-11, 10:18 PM
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The manual has the specs for clutch wear. The replacement point is .012 for the clutch material on either side IIRC. The manual specifies measuring friction material thickness, not the entire clutch disk.
Old 11-02-11, 11:20 PM
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Right got it. either way I ordered the clutch, its specs were closer to my HP and torque so it made sense
kit does come with t/o bearing but I don't think it comes with the pilot bearing. If not who do you know that could ship one in a day. Im trying to have this thing back on the road by Friday night
Old 11-03-11, 08:06 AM
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You're running a 4 inch exhaust on a 300 rwhp car?

If you want room to grow down the road (more boost/power) you're better off getting a sturdier clutch. The ACT extreme PP with uprated organic disc is very streetable and can hold 500 rwhp in an FD.
Old 11-03-11, 09:36 AM
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Well for 200 bucks for a stainless 4 inch exhaust. Why not. But that is for another thread
Old 11-03-11, 05:27 PM
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you may be able to get with Ray@Malloy for the pilot bearing, especially if you need it ASAP.

I do recall ordering some small gaskets and o-ring from him and i needed them ASAP and he was able to put the in a small CD shaped box and got it to me next day, granted i paid more for shipping than i did a few gaskets and orings, but i needed them right away to finish a rebuild on a GSL-SE for a friend of mine since he needed for an autox event
Old 11-04-11, 02:15 AM
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Also check the wire ring to make sure it locks good. I replace that too anytime I take the tranny down. Would suck to pull it apart again because of it

A new "upgraded" fork might be a good idea too while you're in there.
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