I'm wondering if I can achive this # using 850cc's all around and upgrade fuel pump not going over 85% duyt cycle. I'm looking for turbo upgrade but don't really want to go single. I was thinking using 99 spec also. I'm looking for this # also.

Also how will this turbo perform running non-seq?

 

I'm sure they would work about the same as stock but you loose there low end spooling advantage.

I know right after my rebuild I had the pill out and the turbos spooled faster and the car pulled harder. Do these units work better without the pill?

 

The 99s have the restriction in the nipples...you should NOT run restrictor pills in the lines. If you want to control boost with a MANUAL controller, you'll need to drill out the nipples. With an ELECTRONIC boost controller, no such shenanigans required.

I don't understand why anyone would buy new $2k+ twins to run them non-sequentially. If I was going to run them non-sequentially, I would just get the BNR Stage 3s. If I also lived in a non-emissions state, I wouldn't do either and would just get a GT35/40.

 

I've always wondered how much power a ported motor adds compared to a stock motor. You hear claims of 15% or 30hp, etc and since I just dropped in a beautifully built street ported motor by Kyle Krutilek (all 9's on a compression test), I'll be heading back to the dyno to see what it can do after I break it in. Shooting for the same boost and A/F ratio to see how much it really adds or loses, and total area under the curve.
I'll have to check my logged runs and map from that time frame to make sure I had zeroed out the map sensor. I know I had worked with the offset (3947 seems to be a default value) and had changed it to a lower number, but not sure how close to zero I had it.

Tim

 

The reason I wanted a set of this is because my twins have a crack on the housing, so BNR's or a rebuild are out of the question. Didn't really want to go single since the day I sell the car I would like to put it back to stock. Third I wasn't looking for high HP #. To me 360rwhp was perfect, why pay $6k-$7k in a single turbo set up when you can get that for $4500 (that would be including my current mods)? Why would I run them non-seq? because my car is already set up for it.

 

The nice thing about running non-sequential is that cracks around the pre-control don't hurt anything....only cracks going out past the gasket area will really effect boost response.

I was in the same boat as you, luckily BNR had a decent core set for me....and in my case, cracking is much more important, running sequentially.

My main point was that spending a lot of money on quicker spooling twins to use them as non-sequential seems like a little bit of a waste, that's all. Like I said in my rebuild thread, it was a very tough decision between going with brand new 99s and the BNRs, so I understand where you're coming from.

 

Interesting. So, an EBC can cope with the presence of these damned restrictors?

I'm not suprised since the other end of the wastgate acutator is capped in most EBC situations... but has this been your experience?

I was just mulling with the idea of drilling out my restrictors. I'd rather not, since it isn't the greatest place to be making metal chips & shavings.

 

An EBC works by preventing the wastegate actuator from seeing ANY airflow until getting close to the target boost level. The "gain" control is used to adjust the shape of this response. Because of the way an EBC works, it should work fine with the restrictive nipple openings -- I do NOT have personal experience with this though. It's also possible that drilling out the nipples would increase the control/response of the EBC.

 

Oh, don't tell ME how an EBC works! I've only been debating with myself for a month on whether I should bite the bullet and buy one, or make one myself using the stock solenoids and a microcontroller or two. I have a short list of parts I speced out... but yeah, I gave up on that. I'm going shopping now.

I just have no idea of what these over-the counter one-size-fits-all controllers can actually tolerate. You've convinced me to give an EBC a try without the drilling... or if that doesn't work, maybe T-ing into another pressure source. I guess it all comes out in the great wash once you tune your gain & target PWM.

Thanks!

 

Yes Tim.. It would be nice to see the adjusted hp gain.. I have a mild street ported motor and put down 365 rwhp w/ about the same mods. Although I am running a Microtech and the AFR's are in the mid 10's all the time. The fuel formula is rated in miiliseconds w/ this computer, but the formulated AFR #'s = a mid 10..Good luck...

 

Was wondering if you've tried the EBC and what the results were. I'm working on a similar issue w/ the 99 spec turbos. Without any boost control I'm spiking to 15 psi, settling at 13 on primary and secondary. Transition is just a blip - barely noticable. With stock fuel and cpu, maybe not such a good thing...
My mods are basic - y-pipe, downpipe, catback. Everything else is stock. Engine and turbos are brand new. With a manual boost controller I can easily control primary and secondary boost @10 psi, but transition drops to 5. So right now it's either 10-5-10 with minimal spiking using a mbc, or 13-12-13 spiking to 15 w/ no controller. Chris at RX7.com says a PFC will allow me to control the boost w/ the restrictor pills in th turbos. Hope he's right, since this is probably the direction I'm headed, unless the EBC will do it for me...

 

It turns out my '95 (original turbos) does NOT have restrictors in the nipples. They were in the hoses. I was blindly accepting what everyone says about '95's having them built in... It's amazing what looking for one's self can accomplish. IIRC, rynberg's '95 was the same as mine. I should've listened to him.

Despite what some have advised me, I went ahead and got an AVCR. I still have to route the wiring through the firewall. So I can't comment on that unit yet, though a few seem happy with it (once it's dialed in, and you don't use the self-learning crap).

I got the hosing all taken care of. I took it out for an acceleration run to be sure nothing was popping off. Without the AVCR controlling the boost, I get a solid 8psi all across the board with barely any transition dip or spike. This is using the AVCR manual's suggestion of teeing into pre-control and wastegate, as opposed to just the wastegate.

I tried a larger wastegate pill (Holley carb jet) and managed to lower my 6Krpm+ boost to 8psi (was 10 originally). The midrange was still screwed with a giant 14psi spike.

I'm just running a DP, K&N drop-in, and RB dual.