97 RX7 won't start
#1
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
97 RX7 won't start
Hey guys,
I just picked up a 1997 JDM RX7 from a local salvage auction, after checking that the rad was still holding coolant and that the engine had oil I put a new battery in it and the car won't start, it cranks nice but it won't fire at all or start.
After doing some searching I thought it may have been flooded from sitting long and the sudden stop of the accident along with a slight gassy smell in the oil. So I pulled the plugs to try and de-flood but when I pulled them they weren't wet or all that bad, either way I continued with the de-flood process I found by searching and it didn't work. After some more testing and more searching I've found the following:
-No spark
-No engine light on before the engine is cranked
-No tach movement while cranking
-All fuses and relays good
-I can hear the EGI relay click when key is turned
-There is power at the coil packs
Thinking it could be the coil packs, igniter, or maybe the ECU. What do you guys think, and if I am onto something how would I go about testing these parts?
Thanks in advance
I just picked up a 1997 JDM RX7 from a local salvage auction, after checking that the rad was still holding coolant and that the engine had oil I put a new battery in it and the car won't start, it cranks nice but it won't fire at all or start.
After doing some searching I thought it may have been flooded from sitting long and the sudden stop of the accident along with a slight gassy smell in the oil. So I pulled the plugs to try and de-flood but when I pulled them they weren't wet or all that bad, either way I continued with the de-flood process I found by searching and it didn't work. After some more testing and more searching I've found the following:
-No spark
-No engine light on before the engine is cranked
-No tach movement while cranking
-All fuses and relays good
-I can hear the EGI relay click when key is turned
-There is power at the coil packs
Thinking it could be the coil packs, igniter, or maybe the ECU. What do you guys think, and if I am onto something how would I go about testing these parts?
Thanks in advance
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check the throttle position sensor and make sure it's plugged in. Make sure the throttle cable is not too loose. Make sure you have the right spark plug wires on the right firing order.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
check to make sure the MAP sensor is hooked up and the hose to the manifold is still connected.
did you turn it over while you had the plugs and EGI fuse out? If not you should, and maby put some ATF into the plug holes before you put the plugs back in..(can help build compression and loosen a stuck seal)
listen for an even "chof chof chof" noise when you turn it over with the plugs removed. this will at least let you know your making some compression, and it may sound uneven if you have a stuck or broken apex seal.
holding accelerator foot to floor while cranking will stop fuel and can sometimes help with starting a flooded car..(only mention because its kind of counter intuitive and you may not know)
you should check & clean all the electrical grounds as well..
if all that fails remove the UIM and check to make sure all the hoses and plugs under there are still connected and in good condition (assuming its a twin turbo car)
did you turn it over while you had the plugs and EGI fuse out? If not you should, and maby put some ATF into the plug holes before you put the plugs back in..(can help build compression and loosen a stuck seal)
listen for an even "chof chof chof" noise when you turn it over with the plugs removed. this will at least let you know your making some compression, and it may sound uneven if you have a stuck or broken apex seal.
holding accelerator foot to floor while cranking will stop fuel and can sometimes help with starting a flooded car..(only mention because its kind of counter intuitive and you may not know)
you should check & clean all the electrical grounds as well..
if all that fails remove the UIM and check to make sure all the hoses and plugs under there are still connected and in good condition (assuming its a twin turbo car)
Last edited by 96fd3s; 12-27-13 at 03:10 PM.
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
check to make sure the MAP sensor is hooked up and the hose to the manifold is still connected.
did you turn it over while you had the plugs and EGI fuse out? If not you should, and maby put some ATF into the plug holes before you put the plugs back in..(can help build compression and loosen a stuck seal)
listen for an even "chof chof chof" noise when you turn it over with the plugs removed. this will at least let you know your making some compression, and it may sound uneven if you have a stuck or broken apex seal.
holding accelerator foot to floor while cranking will stop fuel and can sometimes help with starting a flooded car..(only mention because its kind of counter intuitive and you may not know)
you should check & clean all the electrical grounds as well..
if all that fails remove the UIM and check to make sure all the hoses and plugs under there are still connected and in good condition (assuming its a twin turbo car)
did you turn it over while you had the plugs and EGI fuse out? If not you should, and maby put some ATF into the plug holes before you put the plugs back in..(can help build compression and loosen a stuck seal)
listen for an even "chof chof chof" noise when you turn it over with the plugs removed. this will at least let you know your making some compression, and it may sound uneven if you have a stuck or broken apex seal.
holding accelerator foot to floor while cranking will stop fuel and can sometimes help with starting a flooded car..(only mention because its kind of counter intuitive and you may not know)
you should check & clean all the electrical grounds as well..
if all that fails remove the UIM and check to make sure all the hoses and plugs under there are still connected and in good condition (assuming its a twin turbo car)
Trending Topics
#8
Throw those spark plugs away. Put new ones in. When I got my JDM car, I had exactly the same situation as you have. It was fouled plugs, even though they were not wet.
Also, you said something a bit incorrect- you mentioned the "check engine light" being lit up.
That statement can't be correct. Because right hand drive JDM cars DO NOT have a check engine light on the dash. ONLY the USDM cars have that.
You are looking at the wrong light.
Or
You have a left hand drive USDM car there, not a JDM car.
The only way to see check engine light codes ON a true JDM right hand drive car is to put an LED in the diagnostic connector under the hood. You need to verify what kind of car you really have there.
Also, you said something a bit incorrect- you mentioned the "check engine light" being lit up.
That statement can't be correct. Because right hand drive JDM cars DO NOT have a check engine light on the dash. ONLY the USDM cars have that.
You are looking at the wrong light.
Or
You have a left hand drive USDM car there, not a JDM car.
The only way to see check engine light codes ON a true JDM right hand drive car is to put an LED in the diagnostic connector under the hood. You need to verify what kind of car you really have there.
#10
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Ok guys, so I figured out what was wrong and let me just say that I feel like a colossal idiot for not checking this before I posted a thread. Well it turns out the PO must have taken out the ECU before the car was shipped to the auction (maybe he had a standalone or something I dunno) But yeah I went check the CAS's Ohms at the ECU and there was no ECU there (facepalm)
Thanks for trying to help me fix my problem, too bad you can't fix stupid
Anyways I found an ECU for a 1993 Canadian LHD FD3S semi locally for a good price, would it be the same as my 97 (that makes it a series 7 right?) JDM RX?
Thanks for the info, the car is for sure JDM I just didn't know that only US spec cars had the check engine light. I read a few no start threads and apparently the appearance of a CEL with the key on could be relevant to the problem so I thought I'd include that I wasn't getting a CEL.
Thanks for trying to help me fix my problem, too bad you can't fix stupid
Anyways I found an ECU for a 1993 Canadian LHD FD3S semi locally for a good price, would it be the same as my 97 (that makes it a series 7 right?) JDM RX?
Also, you said something a bit incorrect- you mentioned the "check engine light" being lit up.
That statement can't be correct. Because right hand drive JDM cars DO NOT have a check engine light on the dash. ONLY the USDM cars have that.
You are looking at the wrong light.
Or
You have a left hand drive USDM car there, not a JDM car.
The only way to see check engine light codes ON a true JDM right hand drive car is to put an LED in the diagnostic connector under the hood. You need to verify what kind of car you really have there.
That statement can't be correct. Because right hand drive JDM cars DO NOT have a check engine light on the dash. ONLY the USDM cars have that.
You are looking at the wrong light.
Or
You have a left hand drive USDM car there, not a JDM car.
The only way to see check engine light codes ON a true JDM right hand drive car is to put an LED in the diagnostic connector under the hood. You need to verify what kind of car you really have there.
Last edited by paulb1320; 12-27-13 at 10:11 PM.
#14
Full Member
ECU will not work. however Don't buy a power fc for it. You get more bang for buck elsewhere and you will find it hard to get a pfc fd3s5 or 6 for cheap and if you do they don't have hand controllers
then there is all the other little bits and pieces you need to make them run really nice
then there is all the other little bits and pieces you need to make them run really nice
#15
You will find if you attempt to put a 93 ECU into a 97 car, the plugs will not physically plug in. They altered the plug shapes to discourage people from plugging an 8 bit ECU where a 16 bit ECU should go.
Your options are limited, therefore you have to do one of the following:
Buy an Apexi Power FC ECU to suit 97-2001 FD3S (be SURE of what you are buying, or as I stated, it will NOT PLUG IN)
Buy a stock ECU from a 97-1999 FD3S.
Forget any ECU from 1995 below. They will not plug in.
And yes, Japanese domestic FD3S do NOT have any Check Engine Light on the dash. The only way to find error codes on your Japanese car is to put an LED and resistor, and jump Ten and GND Terminals and watch the LED flash out the error codes at the diagnostic connector under the hood.
PM me if you need any help on a JDM car. Mine is Japanese delivered, and there are a couple of differences to them, compared to the USDM cars
There are the advantages of having no silly "pre-cat" heater under the hood, like the USDM cars do. And no Accelerated Warmup System either. And then being a 97, there are a few factory refinements to the cooling system, turbochargers, rats nest and interior plastics finish that the early cars do not have. You've got a nice car there, as long as it runs! :p
Your options are limited, therefore you have to do one of the following:
Buy an Apexi Power FC ECU to suit 97-2001 FD3S (be SURE of what you are buying, or as I stated, it will NOT PLUG IN)
Buy a stock ECU from a 97-1999 FD3S.
Forget any ECU from 1995 below. They will not plug in.
And yes, Japanese domestic FD3S do NOT have any Check Engine Light on the dash. The only way to find error codes on your Japanese car is to put an LED and resistor, and jump Ten and GND Terminals and watch the LED flash out the error codes at the diagnostic connector under the hood.
PM me if you need any help on a JDM car. Mine is Japanese delivered, and there are a couple of differences to them, compared to the USDM cars
There are the advantages of having no silly "pre-cat" heater under the hood, like the USDM cars do. And no Accelerated Warmup System either. And then being a 97, there are a few factory refinements to the cooling system, turbochargers, rats nest and interior plastics finish that the early cars do not have. You've got a nice car there, as long as it runs! :p
Last edited by SA3R; 01-03-14 at 04:09 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM