93 Won't Rev...Need Help
03-04-08, 09:20 PM
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93 Won't Rev...Need Help
I have a 93 Rx-7 that had the engine re-done and has been ported out,the turbos were made sequential, I have a 3" downpipe and full exhaust with no catalytic. I also have an aeromotive fuel regulator installed. The AC is gone and smog pump,EGR valve and has all the blocker plates on. Ever since the engine was put back in the car won't rev when u punch it, it starts poppin like crazy and spitting flames out the exhaust. If I rev it slowly then it will creep right on up and rev till I let off. If I try to rev it slowly and then punch it it starts popping right away. Can someone please help me with this issue, this car is driving me crazy
Thank you.
Thank you.
03-04-08, 11:38 PM
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Ok then....One of my friends had said sequential or maybe I misunderstood him but No I don't have an aftermarket ECU becuz the guy who did my motor told me that I didn't need to get one becuz my stock ECU would work fine. I know about that route but I wanted to see if there was another solution for my problem without having to get another ECU.
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03-05-08, 09:46 AM
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No I haven't checked for any codes. I had taken the car to the guy who did the motor and he had it for about 3 months and first said it was my wiring harness then said it was the ECU and then said that the wiring harness was shorting out the ECU because he put another stock ECU on and it ran fine for about 5min but then started to act up again.
03-05-08, 11:26 AM
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had the same problem. fix was
First get a Denso fuel pump 195130-1020 Supra TT stocker a FPR and Guage new filter.
my problem was the spark plug wires was bad. I change them along with a new igniter and I have been good since.
I drop 1300 cc and 850 and toss the 550 rich but safe until I get the PFC in.
Also try to disconnect the IC piping and drive the car as NA and see if it drive good if it does then the probllem is only under boost and also check your VACC lines pressure sensor.
sunil517@hotmail.com
my problem was the spark plug wires was bad. I change them along with a new igniter and I have been good since.
I drop 1300 cc and 850 and toss the 550 rich but safe until I get the PFC in.
Also try to disconnect the IC piping and drive the car as NA and see if it drive good if it does then the probllem is only under boost and also check your VACC lines pressure sensor.
sunil517@hotmail.com
03-05-08, 11:46 AM
#14
Racecar - Formula 2000
I ahd a similar problem w/ no power beyond 1/3 throttle - turned out to be a bad plug wire. Replacing it fixed the problem.
Dave
Dave
03-06-08, 07:57 PM
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Guys please correct me if im wrong but does the 3 mod rule apply here?He has no boost gauge,no A/F meter,went non seq.,no cat,downpipe,and a stock ecu.When he took that car to get its engine worked/installed,he also gave them a new wiring harness,in which I believe the mechanic cut up and installed.Lago is a friend of mine and although hes been involved in the rotary scene,it has been 1st gens for the most part,so this is new for him.I wish I could help him more but there are TONS of you here that have way more knowledge than I do,like Mahjik,Dale Clark,Dale,dgeeseman and many more.Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Thanks,gafu.
P.S. internal comsucktion,thanks for your help.
Thanks,gafu.
P.S. internal comsucktion,thanks for your help.
03-06-08, 08:17 PM
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Take it to Mazsport, it is a shop in Tampa, i haven't been there yet, but have heard good things about the shop from others and they also have a dyno, if you are unable to fix the problem your self. GL
03-07-08, 07:57 AM
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you should really get a PFC and have it tuned before you drive the car any more, you have too many mods for the stock ECU. Also by removing all the emissions the stock ecu will be in limp mode anyway.
Speed costs money buy the right parts the first time and have them installed by a qualified shop. You will spend more money but will get a better result.
Speed costs money buy the right parts the first time and have them installed by a qualified shop. You will spend more money but will get a better result.
03-07-08, 11:38 AM
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you should really get a PFC and have it tuned before you drive the car any more, you have too many mods for the stock ECU. Also by removing all the emissions the stock ecu will be in limp mode anyway.
Speed costs money buy the right parts the first time and have them installed by a qualified shop. You will spend more money but will get a better result.
Speed costs money buy the right parts the first time and have them installed by a qualified shop. You will spend more money but will get a better result.
03-07-08, 06:40 PM
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What up Fellas? I still havent gotten a chance to check the stuff wit my car but the guy who did the Motor did work at Mazsport and he did a good job wit my car with the engine becuz the car sounds great, and also with the fuel regulator and he was the one who diagnosed my car with the ECU being the problem but he had said that it was my wiring harness shorting it out the ECU. I know that the Power FC would finish the job and have my baby running like she should but I don't want to get it if my harness is shorting out.
03-07-08, 07:00 PM
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Whats really weird here is everyone is suggesting fuel pumps injectors and ignition leads. To me that sounds like the ECU is in limp mode 100% (you say you swapped another ECU in and it was ok for 5 mins/ supprise supprise until that ecu detected the same fault and went into limp mode aswell), do as the mahjik says and try pull the ECU codes im betting anything it will throw up a code for something big like oil metering pump which always puts the car in limpmode..
let me know how you get on.
let me know how you get on.
03-07-08, 10:16 PM
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It all depend what codes (relating to what sensors) are pulled from the ECU,, you best find out how many and which ones are stored. Some will not make any difference to the running of the car where as some will put your car in limp mode.
http://www.rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm
http://www.rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm