phrost

iTrader: (14)

i have a 1993 mazda rx7 r1 with a power fc standalone with the commander controller. apexi boost controller.
theres about 30,000 mi on rebuilt engine. stock twin turbos, stock intercooler(sux ***), greddy ic piping(blew the stockones).

i was on a highway doing about 80mph in 4th gear, and stepped on the clutch, the car died when it hit idle, i didnt notice it died until 1.5mi down the road, pulled over tried to start, wont start. towed home.

changed plugs, wires, fuelpump, and about 70% of vacuum lines(wha a bitch, but rob roniettes site helped alot). still wont start.

i seem to have spark cause i got shocked by each plug when tryin to arc it to the chassis.

i unflooded the engine while unflooding, it seemed to sound like it has good compression (so i dont think its a blown engine)

i checked the crank angle sensor resistance - well in spec according to factory manual (anyone that needs the factory manual, i have in pdf format)

anyone know of any sensor that might have went bad that would cause a nostart condition? or if anyother suggestions to check on my rx7 would be greatly appreciated.

also is there a way to check if its a blown engine without a compression check (engine needs to be warmmed up for the compression check, but if it dont start like mine, ur screwed, like me, lol.) or perhaps its a blown ecu? but seems to work fine, on key on engine off, my power fc comander works perfectly fine.

also my check engine light doesnt come on for the bulb check, (checked the bulb its good, checked the wires to one ecu unit, had continuity.)

anyone that can help please reply, im new to this board, and hoping i can get my car started with out having to take it to acosta motorsports ( www.acostamotorsports.com ) to have it fixed.

Fatman0203

Map Sensor?

clayne

ISC solenoid will cause a no idle situation. But if the engine is not establishing an actual cycle of combustion, it's something else.

As far as no starts after giving it gas in 4th at 80? Do a compression check.

Fatman0203

Wouldnt the selenoid, at LEAST give him a code or a check engine light?

c00lduke

make sure to check all your fuses, i've had my main fuse blow on my while driving and you wouldn't believe the amount of work i did before i found it.

Rated R1

Not if he doesn't have the stock ECU.

tcb100

My vote is the 120amp main fuse. Blew one this weekend.

zinx

iTrader: (3)

Fuel Pump Relay may be a good thing to try, or by checking the fuel pump did you check the relay as well?

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

The o2 sensor might explain the idle problem, but it wouldn't prevent your car from starting...

Osker24

alternator

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

check all fuses
do compression test
make sure you have fuel pressure
check electrical connectors on your injectors
do alternator test

remember only need spark, fuel, air... your missing one.. (that is if your compression test checks out fine, but then again.. thats air)

phrost

iTrader: (14)

well i did blow that 120amp fuse, but that was after it died, while working on my car, i shorted the bat terminals, and blew it, lol, its replaced. but how do i check if the map sensor works

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

You'll have to Ohm the MAP sensor..

just make sure its connected to the UIM and the electrical connector it uses.. To my knowledge its rare that they die.

skunks

even with the map sensor disconnected, it would run but it would run craptastically. in anycase, did you check if fuel is actually getting to engine via pulling hte fuel hose near the oil filter and jumpping the fuel pump?

did you check spark via grounding a spark plug while it is hooked in to the plug wire and having a friend crank the car? just because you got shocked does not mean you are getting spark.

have you checked all the fuses as well as your security system?

recheck your spark plugs and clean them off with some brake cleaner.

have you tried to spray starter fluid down your UIM (thru one of the vaccum hose connections)?

how have you tried to unflood her?

is your battery charged enuf?

did you check grounding issues (run a 1 or 2 gauge wire straight from the neg battery terminal to the body/chassie)

did you consider using a normal compression tester to do a cheapy compression test (you must remove the valve and no just hold it down i believe)

in the end, if you have compression, fuel and spark, you should get combustion... if not, your timing might be off

good luck

Broken09

iTrader: (1)

Are all of your other electronics working correctly?
I had a similar situation in which the wires from my OMP had been rubbed through by the main pulley casing a short. This short blew my EGI fuse numerous times until I saw where the short was.
Unfortunately the first time the fuse blew it only slightly cracked and I didn't see the break in the filament.
It seems so stupid but like others said make sure you check all of your fuses carefully.
-Nic

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

yah definately want to check the wires.. but my guess is that you aren't getting any fuel anymore.. the injector clips are known to pop off with age.

Trexthe3rd

Umm, you didn't mention if the car turns over or not. You may have fould plugs (since you mentioned flooded). A fouled plug will still spark (trust me I went through this), but the spark is not strong enough for ignition. You can check this by comparing the spark with a brand new plug.

PeteCowie

I have a similar problem, coming off motorway, rumble from engine bay and then no response to accelerator pedal. 4wABS intermittently flashing and Heat Light came on. Pulled up and waited half hour. I also have a Power FC and commander and the air temp and water temp measuremewnts are not working both read -- --- Swapped out with original ECU and still unable to start when I turn the key if I pump the brake pedal I can keep it truning over but not running properly. This could be down to the number of mods I have on my car and that it will now only run on a Power FC, but anyone have any ideas???


BTW: Sorry to kump in on the thread....

Pete

phrost

iTrader: (14)

dunno bout u pete, but let me update what ive found so far... from your guys tips.

1.compression : num 1 rotor : 90 psi ; num 2 rotor : 58 psi (this is with a cold engine being since i cant get it started)
2. fuel is all good as of 2day, turns out connectors at pump got loose, i fixed that, and now am getting fuel pressure, and when i try to crank the engine a fuel/air mixture floats out the exhaust pipes (white and thick).
3. ive unflooded the engine many times, tryed to use starting fluid, nothing.

im guessing its the compression, but many people have told me that a compression check on a cold engine is worthless, they have seen differences upto 50psi on a cold compression check and a warm compression check.

everytime i unflooded the engine i cleaned my brand new plugs with brake cleaner. looks like theyre brand new. (i bought new plugs after it wont start, but they did get fouled up).

anymore ideas people? please help if you can.

thanks - phrost -
- jay parmar -

phrost

iTrader: (14)

also when i tried the starter fluid it sounded like it would try to almost start. and since i fixed the connections at the fuel pump i can hear it running and theres pressure all the way to the fuel line at the line closest to the oil dipstick (not oil filter, those are return lines i believe) it has that same sound like it almost might just start.

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

ok phrost..

sounds like it was fuel, now its spark.

you need to unflood the engine, take the plugs out.. take out circuit relay, disconnect the low tension harness and turn the engine over a couple times.. you'll see fuel mist out of the sparkplug holes.

now wait a while and let it clear, you don't want to combust that..

the install BRAND NEW.. i mean outta the box new.. not sprayed with anything into the spots.. leave the circuit relay out..reconnect the low tension harness... so now you will be doing a DRY startup.. no more fuel, it should burn whats left.. maybe not enough to start the car..

try 1 or 2 times... then reinstall the circuit relay and start the car... it should crank right up. its amazing how FAST the damn plugs can foul.. i've fouled new plugs in 2 minutes. SO just get some brand new ones.. i guarantee it will start.

phrost

iTrader: (14)

thanks man, imma try it out 2morrow, ill post how i made out. thanks again with all the help everyone

phrost

iTrader: (14)

one more question twinturborx7pete low tension harness, what is this and where is it located. (i bought my fd last september and this is the first time ive ever worked on my rx7, but im gettin more used to working on it.)

phrost

iTrader: (14)

is it the main coil harness for all 3 coils?

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

yes its the little harness that is connected to the coil packs. there are 3 that go to the coil packs and they join into one BIG connector.. you have to disconnect that one.. it will keep the coils from getting power.. so u get no spark. big connector should be located near the oil filler neck.