First, let me give some background by saying i purchased the car 4 years ago for a STEAL. (Less than $5K). The car had some issues but almost all of them have since been resolved except for one...HUGE...problem.

The car WILL NOT start after it has been running for aprox. 15+ minutes. After the car is running and i shut it off, if i attempt to start the car back up, it will crank and crank and sound AS CLOSE as you can get to cranking over, but it just wont. I would have to pop the hood and let the car cool down and wait about 30+ minutes before the car will crank over again.

So far we have replaced the Fuel Pressure Reg, Air Control Valve, Air Pump, Starter Solenoid, and Starter. The Fuel Lines were showing signs of damage so i replaced them as well. Also, i had a leaky injector, so we had it replaced, and had the remaining injectors repaired and cleaned.

There is satisfactory spark when the no-start occurs. The motor has been through deflooding procedures and still no start. vacuum appears to be fine. Fuel pressure and oil pressure appear to be fine.

The car only has a downpipe, new spark plug wires, and a pulley kit. Otherwise its stock.

Compression test numbers read: Front - 89,91,96. Rear - 96,91,95.

 

Took it out today for a 35 minute drive. Got home, took a shower, attempted to crank, and same problem occured. Had to let it sit for close to 40 minutes before it would start over.

 

a car thats hard to start only when hot is often a sign of low engine compression.

 

I had this problem two years ago, it was a coolant seal failure.

 

Motor was rebuilt aprox. 40XXX miles ago by a company in maryland. Plus, the compression numbers i keep coming up with i know aren't supurb, but they should be good enough to have her kick over on command.

Then again, i could just be in denial because i really don't want to go down the rebuild/motor swap road.

I'll check but i don't have any coolant leaks.

 

Coolant seal failure = clear white smoke coming out of the exhaust (don't be fooled with condensation).

 

Have you measured compression when it's hot? That should help isolate some unknown fuel anomaly from a compression issue.

 

Well 40xxx miles is still a fair distance. Was it all brand new parts that were used in the rebuild? New housings ?
Reason I ask is because if the housings were reused, perhaps they have simply worn.