GustavOllufsen

I want to try and not seem too repetitive. I've seen countless Posts of my same problem, but somehow none have fully helped me to solve the problem.

I have a '93 FD I just bought from California and had shipped over to me here in Northeast Ohio(**** this weather). The car looks amazing. a couple small dings here and there but it's sweet as ****. There's a few annoying things, such as the pocket inside the door where u grab to pull it shut, both sides are borken in the inside, and the rear end differential Bushings are worn to nothingness. But anyway

1: My boost/vacuum gauge shows the vacuum to only be at 14, but I'm guessing if it was a manifold vacuum leak it would be a hell of a lot lower than that.

2: I have the tell-tale signs of a leaking one-way check valve, since when I pull of the throttle it recharges the lost vacuum in the chamber, then when I punch it it hits 10psi like normal.

3: It Holds a solid 10psi(short 14psi spike from the downpipe) up to 4500 rpm, then when turbo 2 adds on it drops to 5 psi from 4500-redline. The one-way check valve symptom only occurs past 4500 rpm. It's not a gradual drop either, it just drops from 10-5 psi right on the 4500 mark. Maybe the only things being affected by that vacuum leak are actuators that only come into Effect when turbo 2 comes online???

4: On the solenoid rack, right under the Pressure Tank on the left-hand side, I can see a metal pipe where it looks like a vacuum hose should be connected. But no hose. I blocked it off to see if it would prevent the vacuum leak, and it didn't change a single god damn mother ******* thing god damnit.

5: When I bought it, someone did a full vacuum job.

6: I was thinking that the double throttle control actuator wasn't opening the butterflys when turbo 2 came online. Then I thought it must be the one-way check valve because of how after recharging the vacuum it worked like normal. THEN I thought it could be the Charge Relief Valve not closing when the CCV Opened and leaking secondary boost. AND THEN I thought the wastegate might be too far open and venting too much exhaust because the wastegate only controls boost once turbo 2 is online so it can control both exhaust wheels as one wastegate. THEN I threw my shiny new snap-on 1/2" Impact across the shop and broke a bay door.

Maybe one of or both of the 2 Turbo Control Solenoid Valves is/are Leaking??

Any advice or consolement on this issue would be GREATLY appreciated.

P.S. A guy at the shop noticed as i started up the car that it sounded like I had an Exhaust Leak coming from under the engine compartment, maybe Secondary Turbo Exhaust Leak? That wouldnt explain the recharge of the vacuum chamber restoring full boost though :-/

AND ONE MORE THING. I leave the car in my Garage overnight(It gets cold), and then go to start it in the morning to leave for work. I usually sit there for a minute and let the idle ease down from 3000 to 1000 so the oil is all nice and smooth and everything is warmed up ready to go. One day I was in a hurry, so I started it up and said **** it, flew out of the driveway and went flying down the road to work. for some Reason None of the above boost issues were happening for the first minute or so. It ran perfect. I punched it and I was hit by an unexpected 10psi from 2000-8000. But after I was down the road some and it had warmed up to were I usually let it before I drive, all the problems came back.

Ok that's it, sorry about the Novel lol.

GustavOllufsen

I want to correct myself on some stupidity. I know that open pipe is a line that's only used for auto trannys, along with a whole other solenoid that I obviously don't have.

That and I tried slamming it today right after Start and not let it warm up, and it sitll had problems so that may have just occured towards the start of the leak an the leak may have increased since then.

NCMontegott

iTrader: (5)

umm don't drive your car while cold. A mityvac would be very helpfull in finding your problem,
ie you can test the double throttle and other parts of the car.
All manual trans cars have an extra hose on the rats nest that is not used (for auto only) so don't worry about that.
if you need more infor about this stuff there is a horde of info in the sticky at the top of the 3rd gen section.

RX7Wishing

Thats a good way to crack a seal.

Illyont

I have to admit I have done that a couple of times in my Audi A4.. But I would never do that to my RX-7.. Shame on you! ^^

BlueTII

The double throttle opens when the car is at operating temp, not when the second turbo is engaged. You are reaching 10 psi primary boost which is more then enough (7psi needed) for the second turbo to turn on. It sounds like whoever did the vacumm job misrouted a line or 2 (or more). All it takes is one for the secondary turbo to not perform correctly.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Start off with new check valves, and get the colored vacuum line diagram to double-check the vacuum line routing.

If you've never removed the upper intake manifold, here's my writeup -

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=63&mnu=5

Also, I sell replacement check valves for a good price that are far superior to the OEM ones. PM me if you'd like a set.

Dale