NorthwindHost

I decided since im going to be adding amp's and 2 subs, I might as well get a new battery as the old one seems like its not going to handle it. (can't even turn the radio on with the lights on).

So, can anyone give me the dimension of the battery for an FD?

I wish i had the original owners manual, but i never got it with the car so I'm clueless.

Thanks

NorthwindHost

Model is 34/78 also called 800U
Cranking Amps-980
Cold Cranking Amps-800
Reserve-110
Battery has both Top post and Side terminals for easy installation.
Dimensions are 10"x 6.8"x 7.8"
Weight is approx. 38.8 lbs.

How does that sound? Would it give me enough power to pretty much add a few things to the system?

NorthwindHost

Its a Red Top Optima.
I am not looking for performance with this battery, just more like being able to handle a system, amp, etc...

I heard a Yellow Top would be better for this but I also need the car to startup nicely in the winter.

NorthwindHost

Wow. Ok. =)

COsborne

sounds like you have a weak alternator to me...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I agree, sounds like you have other problems than just a weak battery.

However, just pull the battery out and take it to your local auto store. They'll match one up for you. If you don't have another car, just drive your FD there and they'll match it.

NorthwindHost

Hmm..., what other component should i look into then.

Also, how would I check if the alternator is good or not. Is it a easy fix if I do decide to replace it?

RotorJoe

If you pull your alternator and take it to any auto shop (shucks, auto zone, BB auto ect) they should be able to bench test it for free. After that go find a a good one at a great price. This goes the same with the battery.

NorthwindHost

Ugh, I have to take out it.

I am going to get a new battery for now, and if doesn't help, ill check out the alternator.

The thing is, I was hoping the new battery would solve my headlight problem.

Like when I turn my headlights on, my stereo dies.

But i can turn my ac on with the dome lights, a/c radar detector, etc.

NorthwindHost

I also thought that I would need a bigger battery because of the Kappa Speakers I installed.

It takes a big drain on the system.

NorthwindHost

any other suggestions, rathen then the battery?

COsborne

what do you mean it "dies"?

rynberg

Once the car is running, the alternator supplies the juice, not the battery. Also, running speakers off of a head-unit is hardly a big drain on the electrical system. Running 1000 watts into three 4-ohm subs is a big load.....

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

The red and yellow top won't work. You need to get a orange top reversed termal version. click "here".

NorthwindHost

Can you tell me what the difference is between the orange reversed and the yellow top?

NorthwindHost

The stereo just turns off, and it feels like there is no power going into it.

When I turn off the lights, then the stereo back on, the memory is already reset.

NorthwindHost

Also, where can I get a new alternator for an FD?

InsaneGideon

Sounds like a wiring problem! That may be toasting your battery. Has this just started happening, or has it always been this way since install?

NorthwindHost

I received the car like this.

It doesn't seem like a wiring problem though because I wired the receiver myself because I just bought a new one.

The only thing that worried me was the black line and the only line that was available for it was the orange line.

I believe the orange line said something like positive dimmer? I just went by what the original receiver had, which was also an aftermarket.

Also, anyone know where I can get a male plug for the antenna. The idiot cut it off and I don't think it would be wise if i just shoved the wires in so i left it off.

maxcooper

It does sound like you have a wiring problem. It might be somewhere other than the stereo system, however. I would still double-check your wiring just to make sure it is correct. I installed some rear speakers in my car and accidentally shorted one of the speaker cables (with music playing) on the seat belt thingy. That quickly killed two batteries. I ended up replacing the head unit (I was using the stock one) and the problem was solved.

I am not totally sure by your description, but your dimmer to main power connection (if that is indeed how you wired it) seems like a reasonable choice. Does the illumination work as expected (works, turns off when car is off, etc.) on your new receiver? If it isn't working correctly, there could be a problem there.

The antenna connector rarely mates up with aftermarket head units anyway. Most head units have a male connector and so does the antenna coax on the car. The usual solution is to get a short adapter with female connectors on both ends. Or perhaps that is the ideal solution -- but what I did and what I have read others have done is buy a female connector and a M-F extension cable, cut it short (but not too short) near the female connector, and install the other female connector. That leaves you with a short wire with two female connectors -- perfect to mate up the reciever with the car. If the connector is already cut off your antenna wire, just buy a single female connector and install it on the cable. You can buy cables and connectors at any auto sound place, and probably Radio Shack, too.

The FD has two antenna leads ("diversity tuning"), but most head units only have one. Don't try to use both -- just use the one that connects to the mast antenna at the back of the car.

An aftermarket head unit with new speakers should not be any kind of heavy load for the electrical system. If you had a bunch of external amps and subs and stuff, that might warrant some battery/alternator/caps upgrades. But a head unit with some speakers should not require anything of the sort. Something is wrong (perhaps a dead alternator, unrelated to the stereo install) if you can't run the headlights and the stereo at the same time.

Don't boost the car until your fix the problem -- low voltage at the fuel pump caused by electrical problems could very well make the car run lean under boost and blow the engine.

-Max

NorthwindHost

Yeah when the car is off, so is everything else so it seems fine there.

I don't think its the alternator. It just doesn't really add up. Also the car isn't running lean. I have a A/F guage and its more on the rich side then lean. Also have a PFC incase anything does happen.

After going through all this, I might as well just bring it to an audio place and have them look at it.

NorthwindHost

I am still open to suggestions however, as I am looking to do this myself and save myself some money, so I can get myself a new rad.

Also, just wanted to note, at arount 28 volume, all the lights inside ( a/c light, dome lights ) starts to flicker.

At around 32 volume, the system temporarily shuts off and turns back on, and keeps at it until i lower the volume.

NorthwindHost

I am also suspecting that the headlight wiring is done properly, but don't even know where to begin to look at it.

NorthwindHost

Someone also suggested, i bring in a new powerline to the receiver? How exactly would I do that?

NorthwindHost

I meant to say isn't. It seems the powerline that is going for the headlights is also the line for the stereo. There a possibility of this?

If that is the case, how can I bring in a new powerline into the headlights?