3rd motor blown in 1 year
#1
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3rd motor blown in 1 year
i dont know what to do i dont want any learn to drive comments. i know how to drive. i have prper fueling had steve kan tune it and everything seems fine and about every 4 months another bites the dust. i think i have to sell it or do a swap. i dont understand why the motor keeps shipping seals. i mean i dont run more than 1 bar and most the time i leave it at 10psi. i'm at my wits end but i love this car so much. any input on what to do or some words of encouragement to keep the car because im getting close to just saying to hell with it.
#3
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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What kind of apex seals? where are you getting your gas and what brand?
I recommend getting water injection ASAP. It will definitely save you from blowing up 99% of the time.
I recommend getting water injection ASAP. It will definitely save you from blowing up 99% of the time.
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
something just doesn't seem right. What were the specs on your motor and how did you have it built and with what seals....
also what happened that you lost the other two engines.
also what happened that you lost the other two engines.
#5
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i have bought 2 j spec motors that were really clean and pulled awsome vac. started right up never smoked. i use shell or chevron and sometimes 76. they have 100 at the pump here.
#7
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
What kind of apex seals? where are you getting your gas and what brand?
I recommend getting water injection ASAP. It will definitely save you from blowing up 99% of the time.
I recommend getting water injection ASAP. It will definitely save you from blowing up 99% of the time.
Water Injection for one pound of Boost or less??Hope your joking, BTW thats wasn't funny at all..........That tells me alot about your tuning skills.
Keven, IMO, I think either your getting jacked by who is selling you those motors or your frigging with the tuning that Steve is giving you.
Have you checked you fuel pump? Could it be a fuel problem?Pump not supplying enough pressure at higher boost? What about the OMP, are the anygood?
Does the motor show any signs of F8ckry before biting the dust??
Whats your setup...in detail.
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#8
Originally Posted by Indian
Water Injection for one pound of Boost or less??Hope your joking, BTW thats wasn't funny at all..........That tells me alot about your tuning skills.
Keven, IMO, I think either your getting jacked by who is selling you those motors or your frigging with the tuning that Steve is giving you.
Have you checked you fuel pump? Could it be a fuel problem?Pump not supplying enough pressure at higher boost? What about the OMP, are the anygood?
Does the motor show any signs of F8ckry before biting the dust??
Whats your setup...in detail.
Keven, IMO, I think either your getting jacked by who is selling you those motors or your frigging with the tuning that Steve is giving you.
Have you checked you fuel pump? Could it be a fuel problem?Pump not supplying enough pressure at higher boost? What about the OMP, are the anygood?
Does the motor show any signs of F8ckry before biting the dust??
Whats your setup...in detail.
It probably is the fact that you are buying used motors, which are never 100% reliable, this time you should invest into a full rebuild.
#9
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fuel pressure is fine, around 3 bar or so and i never race with less than a 1/4 tank. i dont even touch the power fc after steve tuned it. the tuning was fine. as far as i know the omp works. maybe one of my primary inj is going bad or not flowing properly. i have stock primaries, 1600 second, a turbonetics T-61 apexi GT FMIC Fower FC.
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Originally Posted by KevinW
supposedly under 25k miles and they are not rebuilt.
The last two engines he got were from me and the one prior to this one was in one of my cars and it was very good. I can't comment about the second engine but I gave him a great deal on it and it probably was a very good engine.
If the engine starts hot or cold, doesn't smoke, pulls good vacuum, and purrs like a kitten at idle it's a good engine.
I think you have some sort of fuel problem that's resulting in a lean condition but I need a lot more info to even begin guessing.
What was the boost, temp, gear, etc....when the engine went.
Is it the same seal on the same rotor each time?
Does the fuel pressure always steadily grow up to about 60psi under full boost or does it climb and slowly drop?
How old is your engine harness?
Do you have a bunch of electronics on the car?
Is your fuel pump wired up directly to the a 12v source?
Basically spill all the beans you have and lets try to get this problem sorted out.
#16
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fuel pressure shoots right up i do think it is the same rotor but wont know till this one comes out if i ever have the money for it. i never said anything bad about the motors they were great never had any signs of any problems. i dont really have any electronics. engine harness should be fine. maybe it's a primary injector. this time when the engine went i was accelerating onto the highway on the onramp and wasnt even in full boost maybe 10-12psi.
#17
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KEVIN i feel ur pain im on my second within an year plus a have A VERY GOOD TUNER. first itme i didnt know what it was second time i was told that i leaned out because i had little GAS in the car whaich was new to me now im llooking for a 3rd motor. WHAT MADE ME KEEP THE CAR WAS THAT THERE WASNT ANOTHER CAR THAT WOULD EXCITE ME LIKE THE FD.. WELL EXCEPT A PORSCHE TURBO...LOL. I WISH U GOOD LUCK CAUSE I KNOW I NEED IT!
#21
Fuel supply is one of the most important issues. Do you notice fuel serge? The standard FD fuel tank will fuel serge when it is half empty in hard cornering, worse if there is a lot of left corners. You can fit an external swurl pot to fix this. Make sure the fuel tank has a good breather. (if the breather is blocked then the fuel tank will build up a vacuum and the fuel pressure will drop.) Do you have a data logger to log the fuel pressure, boost pressure, RPM, Lambda? What type of ECU do you have?
Sensor failure is another area to lok at, look at the TPS because the ECU should look at boost for tune but most will also use TPS and if it is faulty you can have failures. The boost sensor may not be able to measure past 1 bar and your boost may go higher and you and the ECU don't know that and the engine needs more fuel. You can check this by puting a gauge on a T piece to the MAP sensor and pump air in and read both the reading on the ECU as well as the gauge at the same time and go above 1 bar.
~ian.
Sensor failure is another area to lok at, look at the TPS because the ECU should look at boost for tune but most will also use TPS and if it is faulty you can have failures. The boost sensor may not be able to measure past 1 bar and your boost may go higher and you and the ECU don't know that and the engine needs more fuel. You can check this by puting a gauge on a T piece to the MAP sensor and pump air in and read both the reading on the ECU as well as the gauge at the same time and go above 1 bar.
~ian.
#22
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If you don't have one already I would invest in a wideband so you can keep an eye on your afrs. What were are your intake air temps like? A simple aquamist water injection kit would give you a nice safety blanket. I would also check the flow ratio between the front and rear injectors. If they are not even it won't show up when tuning unless Steve checked the plugs.
#23
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Originally Posted by cooljerk187
He said 1 bar or less.... read a little closer before youy bash on a very respectful person on these boards.
It probably is the fact that you are buying used motors, which are never 100% reliable, this time you should invest into a full rebuild.
It probably is the fact that you are buying used motors, which are never 100% reliable, this time you should invest into a full rebuild.
Anyway, before I interupted by nuts licker. You need to sit and think about what might be different between the american and jspec motors, two motors is just too coincidental. Did you check the tps? You need to give a full list of stuff on time in one post. I dont think by far , Steve is the problem. there has to be something malfuctioning or setting wrong. Have you pulled any of the motors down?? This is gonna be a hard one or maybe not to diog.
I'm sure the guys here..(who doesn't lick nuts) will be able to help you straight. I'm also curious what would do this too.Maybe fuel, injectors, Did you free spin the engine before putting them in the car. I like to take these kinda notes, while doing a press install used/new on any vehicle.
Keithhh <--------look MOM, I spelt my name wrong!!!) LMAO
#24
Need more sleep
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Did it blow up after the car was parked for awhile? If the IAT sensor is still in the UIM and you let it heat soak by parking the car a short while and then start the car and drive it hard it will effectively lean the car out about 5%. It takes the IAT awhile to cool off and read actual intake air temps.
Another question, did you have the commander running peak hold to capture boost and knock during your prior engine failures? Every time I've seen an apex seal break, peak knock has been over 100.
Another question, did you have the commander running peak hold to capture boost and knock during your prior engine failures? Every time I've seen an apex seal break, peak knock has been over 100.
#25
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by Indian
Water Injection for one pound of Boost or less??Hope your joking, BTW thats wasn't funny at all..........That tells me alot about your tuning skills.
.
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Anyone who has been around modified FDs for any period of time knows that **** happens with these cars, in spades. In my opinion, if you have a 13B making more than ~350 to the wheels and you want to give the motor a fighting chance to last as long as a piston engine, then water injection is a pretty inexpensive (and smart) investment.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 12-23-05 at 11:40 PM.