3rd Gen overheating probs
#1
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3rd Gen overheating probs
The guy I bought my 94 FD from mentioned that if the temp ever starts to go over about halfway on the gauge that I should shut it off asap or risk burning up the engine.. I've been driving it for a few days, and it usually hovers just under halfway under normal driving conditions. Today, however, I was driving during rush hour in pretty hot (85+) weather and noticed that it occasionally creeped up a tad over halfway then dropped back down once I started moving or the fans kicked in. Is this something to be concerned about?
If it is, what can I do to have it checked out/fixed?
If it is, what can I do to have it checked out/fixed?
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
That is normal, but the temps are a bit high when the fans do finally come on.
Do a search for the fan mod.
If your car is up to the latest recalls, you will be able to put a switch in (two wires) and turn your fans on when you need it; like in traffic.
I usually drive around all the time with my fans on; helps keep the temps low even on hot days.
Do a search for the fan mod.
If your car is up to the latest recalls, you will be able to put a switch in (two wires) and turn your fans on when you need it; like in traffic.
I usually drive around all the time with my fans on; helps keep the temps low even on hot days.
#4
Passenger
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DO THE FAN MOD IT IS WORTH THE TIME I BLEW MY WATER PUMP BELT AND TURN MY FANS ON KEEP THE CAR FROM OVERHEATING UNTIL I GOT TO AUTOZONE TO CHANGE MY BELT OUT!!IT SAVED ME A MOTOR.EVEN THOUGH I JUST PUT ONE IN!!! ALSO TURN YOUR RUNNING LIGHTS ON TO GET THEM TO KICK ON QUICKER~
#6
If the car still runs too hot after you turn on the parking light while in traffic, you may change your coolant mix to 70% distilled water/30% antifreeze.
Also, your thermostat may be old. That's what I would look into next.
Also, your thermostat may be old. That's what I would look into next.
#7
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Here's some food for thought.
There are five popular cooling system mods for the 3rd Gen:
1. Replace the plastic AST with an aluminum one.
2. Replace the stock radiator with a larger capacity one. Fluidyne (1 1/2 inch thick) and Koyo (2 inch thick) make all aluminum aftermarket radiators for the 3RD Gen. Go to this link:
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi...6cdc+1011592985
3. Modify the radiator fans with a switch that allows you to turn on the fans at any time. Go to this link:
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/howto/fanswitch/fanswitch.html
4. Change the thermoswitch that turns on the radiator fans to a Miata thermoswitch that will turn on the fans at a lower temperature. The Miata thermoswitch is available from aftermarket parts places. You also have to change the existing connector. Get the connector from a 90's something Ford Probe (Mazda engine) at your Pull-It-Yourself wrecking yard.
5. Recognize that the stock temperature gauge is actually an idiot light and either "linearize" the stock gauge or install an aftermarket temp gauge in order to get accurate temperature readings. Go to these links:
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/tempgauge.html
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7...nstructions.pdf
If you end up "breaking into your cooling sysytem" to do any of the above mods, then you should also replace the thermostat and radiator hoses. Refill the system with only distilled water and antifreeze.
There are five popular cooling system mods for the 3rd Gen:
1. Replace the plastic AST with an aluminum one.
2. Replace the stock radiator with a larger capacity one. Fluidyne (1 1/2 inch thick) and Koyo (2 inch thick) make all aluminum aftermarket radiators for the 3RD Gen. Go to this link:
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/cgi...6cdc+1011592985
3. Modify the radiator fans with a switch that allows you to turn on the fans at any time. Go to this link:
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/howto/fanswitch/fanswitch.html
4. Change the thermoswitch that turns on the radiator fans to a Miata thermoswitch that will turn on the fans at a lower temperature. The Miata thermoswitch is available from aftermarket parts places. You also have to change the existing connector. Get the connector from a 90's something Ford Probe (Mazda engine) at your Pull-It-Yourself wrecking yard.
5. Recognize that the stock temperature gauge is actually an idiot light and either "linearize" the stock gauge or install an aftermarket temp gauge in order to get accurate temperature readings. Go to these links:
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/tempgauge.html
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7...nstructions.pdf
If you end up "breaking into your cooling sysytem" to do any of the above mods, then you should also replace the thermostat and radiator hoses. Refill the system with only distilled water and antifreeze.
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#8
The PowerFC lets you turn the fans on at any temp you want, too. XS tuned mine and made the fans come on at 87C or so, and I just hooked up my FC-datalogit (VERY cool product, by the way) that lets you change the settings (you can't change them with the Commander). There are three settings to turn the fans on at various speeds. I think mine were set for 87, 88, and 89C or something like that. My car (single turbo, 370RWHP, lots of stop-n-go traffic) has not been over 186F in months (that's the peak temp my SPA gauge is holding). And I don't just putz it around, either.
I never did the fan mod with the switch because I didn't want to have to mount the switch or fool around with turning it on and off. The PowerFC with the fan settings takes its place and operates automatically. I love it.
-Max
I never did the fan mod with the switch because I didn't want to have to mount the switch or fool around with turning it on and off. The PowerFC with the fan settings takes its place and operates automatically. I love it.
-Max
#12
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Hey maxcooper, could you give me some more info on how to do that? I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to this car.
I would much rather have the fans just automatically start at lower temps instead of installing a switch.
I would much rather have the fans just automatically start at lower temps instead of installing a switch.
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To add to Jonesboro's excellent list:
6. Make sure both of your radiator fans are functioning properly. When one is on, the other should be on as well.
I don't know your mods, but if you've still got the stock battery box, intercooler, air duct, etc, it makes it a bit harder to tell if they're both spinning. I'm running on one fan, with a frount mount, and the stock radiator, and I get uneasy in 85 degree weather. But that's all gonna be changing in a few days with some new goodies on the way.
6. Make sure both of your radiator fans are functioning properly. When one is on, the other should be on as well.
I don't know your mods, but if you've still got the stock battery box, intercooler, air duct, etc, it makes it a bit harder to tell if they're both spinning. I'm running on one fan, with a frount mount, and the stock radiator, and I get uneasy in 85 degree weather. But that's all gonna be changing in a few days with some new goodies on the way.
#16
I'm a CF and poop smith
i posted this in the homedepot mods but apparently that was a joke thread, here it goes again and for only about 5 bucks in metal will not cost you much for alot of cooling.
Get some sheet metal and create ducting to force more air thur the radiator, this should run right on the sides of the radiator. I did and dropped my temp from 200-205 degrees to 180-185. im running on the stock radiator and was just about to get a koyo or fluidyne radiator, im glad i didn't cuz if i was running any cooler, i would never get out of warm up mode (kinda ironic huh?). I failed to mention that im also running 30%radiator fluid and have also taken out the A/C condensor (my A/C compressor is busted anyways).
Also, im running the fan mod where i can control all 3 speeds of the fans, usually i only need low and i can stay at 180 degrees, in heavy traffic i go to med. speed. i only use high on and/or after hard runs.
good luck
P.S. Get yourself a temp. gauge, cuz if the stock temp gauges starts moving, your already in trouble! Mines already paied for itself. It still amazes me how many times a 40 dollar gauge can save a 2-3k engine!
Get some sheet metal and create ducting to force more air thur the radiator, this should run right on the sides of the radiator. I did and dropped my temp from 200-205 degrees to 180-185. im running on the stock radiator and was just about to get a koyo or fluidyne radiator, im glad i didn't cuz if i was running any cooler, i would never get out of warm up mode (kinda ironic huh?). I failed to mention that im also running 30%radiator fluid and have also taken out the A/C condensor (my A/C compressor is busted anyways).
Also, im running the fan mod where i can control all 3 speeds of the fans, usually i only need low and i can stay at 180 degrees, in heavy traffic i go to med. speed. i only use high on and/or after hard runs.
good luck
P.S. Get yourself a temp. gauge, cuz if the stock temp gauges starts moving, your already in trouble! Mines already paied for itself. It still amazes me how many times a 40 dollar gauge can save a 2-3k engine!
Last edited by skunks; 04-19-02 at 08:35 AM.
#17
Just cause your stock gauge goes up, does not EXACTLY mean you are done. The chances you are done are high, but there is still hope. Try to keep your eye on it when you are in situations where the temps will go up. If it happens, turn the car off immediately and turn the fans on somehow, turning the a/c up all the way (I think the 3rd setting works too) will turn the fans on high. This cools the car pretty quickly.
Yesterday my stock gauge went up, didn't peg, but went was up close to the line. Fortunately I was near home and could drift the rest of the way with the car off. But when I checked my aftermarket (autometer) gauge, it never went above 230. I know there could be some inaccuracy, but nothing more than 10 degress, so I figure the temps never went above 240. Also, one of my coolant hoses broke a spit coolant all over my engine. But I let the engine cool, replaced the coolant, started the car right up, held perfect idle. Shut the car off 4 or 5 times after that, restarting in between each, and each time it started right up. So it is possible to go above the middle line and be fine on the stock gauge, but be very careful when you do it.
Also, most of my probs were because I tried to eliminate the AST. I tried it two different times, and each time I had big problems. So I finally just bought an aluminum one, which is definitely what I would suggest to anyone.
Yesterday my stock gauge went up, didn't peg, but went was up close to the line. Fortunately I was near home and could drift the rest of the way with the car off. But when I checked my aftermarket (autometer) gauge, it never went above 230. I know there could be some inaccuracy, but nothing more than 10 degress, so I figure the temps never went above 240. Also, one of my coolant hoses broke a spit coolant all over my engine. But I let the engine cool, replaced the coolant, started the car right up, held perfect idle. Shut the car off 4 or 5 times after that, restarting in between each, and each time it started right up. So it is possible to go above the middle line and be fine on the stock gauge, but be very careful when you do it.
Also, most of my probs were because I tried to eliminate the AST. I tried it two different times, and each time I had big problems. So I finally just bought an aluminum one, which is definitely what I would suggest to anyone.
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