SilverR1

I can't seem to get my compressor to kick on. I checked the fuse by the battery and the relay in front of the intercooler. Is there any thing else I need to check before I take it in to be looked at by a mechanic? I'm trying to find all the easy fixes myself first. The light comes on when I hit the AC swithch and the fans start also. If you guys know something I don't please help out.

turbovr6

hmmm maybe all the freon leaked out?

SilverR1

I'm not too familiar with this particular compressor but I know with most other cars I have see the compressor clicks on when it starts up. I don't hear the click when I hit the AC switch on and off. The leads me to believe that the compressor is either damaged or it is not getting any power to turn it on. That's is just my guess.

turbovr6

In our cars there is a pressure switch. If there is not enough pressure in the system the switch will stay open and no power flows to the compressor.

SilverR1

Can you tell me where to add the freon at? I think it is above the turbos. I see to lines with connection fittings. One line is bigger than the other. Are these the correct lines? If so which one is the charging line? Also, I'm assuming that it takes R12. Is it possible to convert the system the R 134?

1 BAD 7

i can't help you with how to add freon, but i would say that's most likely your problem. my old 2nd gen did the same thing. it's a safety precaution to keep from burning the compressor out when there's low/no freon in the system.

Viper jr

May or may not help you any, but I just added a bunch of info on troubleshooting the AC system to my site. Technical Info/Service Manuals/Mitchell Info - 93 is the only 3rd gen info up right now

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

If you change over to the new feon you need to get the kit with the new oil as well. You add the oil then you add the freon. Just rear the directions. The old oil is Supposed to go to low pointes in th system as the new oil is lighter weight. The connection to add freon is on the passenger side of the engine bay by the air box I believe, The lines have a red cap and a gray or blue car. They are two different fittings so the kit comes with a hose that will only fit the correct fitting. If you have any questions let me know. I did this to my CRX and it worked out fine.

Toadman

Be careful with converting over to R134. It is more caustic and tends to eat the rubber o-rings between line fittings.

Ed Everidge

I just had my AC repaired. It was an evaporator leak.

I asked about conversion to 134 and my mechanic (who specializes in RX-7's ) indicated that it was not a good idea because RX7 AC's are not super to start with and conversion to 134 makes them less so.

The 95's use 134. I think some 94's as well.
(Y'all correct me if this is wrong; its heresay)
If you have a 93 it uses R12. No reputable mechanic will just add R12 to a leaking system (I think its against the law)

P.S. There are two possible AC's in the 93. One has a $500 evaporator and the other a $1200 evaporator. I have the cheap one so my total bill was arroung 1200.

The initial symptom I saw was the same as yours: the compressor clutch would not engauge. The electrical signals come out of the CPU to a relay box (under the rectangular intake cross over at the front) then to the pressure switch near the
accumulator, and then to the compressor. I determined that the switch was not working by validating the relay output, and by noting that when the compressor clutch was connected to +12 it did engauge. The cause for not working was no freon.

CPA

I just converted over to the new 134 in my 93 and it freezes me out of the car and I live in Dallas. It does seem to take an extra minute or so to get there, but it does work well. Rotary Performance told me that the only difference in the old system and the new on the FD is the fitting to put the freon in. They fixed my problem and put in the new 134 and I have been fine all summer. One other tip that Ed said below, Do NOT put the old R12 in your system since you probably have a leak. It will cost you $200 just to find the leak. After you find the leak with dye, then you can put the R12 back in or convert over to 134 with a proper kit. The kit cost me about $35.

Silver7

Since we're on the topic, here's my problem. My clutch enages when I hit the AC switch and cool air starts to come out for a second or two. Shortly after, the cools air is replaced by warm air. I was thinking my freon might be getting low. I guess I may have a leak too. BTW, I have a 93.

SilverR1

I found the problem. I have a pretty good leak on one of my lines. Can this be patched or should I get it replaced? It's the LP line above the radiator.

JConn2299

You need to replace the line as they operate under high pressure.
Once your system is open to the air, it should be evacuated before recharging to get all the moisture out.

My recommendation is to take it to a competent A/C specialist.
Now that you've found the problem, that will save you some time and money.