I hit exactly 300 rwhp with apex'i gt exhaust, midpipe, downpipe, pettit intake, gforce ecu and boost at 11 psi...this was 2 yrs ago with my older setup.

 

Hi Jason, tell us about your turbos.
How fast they compress?

Do you have the stock intercooler?

I think is very dangerous to run more than 12 psi on stock intercooler.

RT

 

I'm shooting for 300rwhp on the following setup:

Apexi Power Intake
M2 Downpipe
Bonez Hi-Flow Cat
Greddy Power Extreme Exhaust
Greddy 2 FMIC
Nippondenso Competition Fuel Pump
Nippondenso 1300cc Injectors

PowerFC w/commander & Datalogit for tuning
(I don't think I forgot anything)

Will run 11-12lbs boost normally, probably do a few dyno runs with a higher boost 13 - 13.5lbs
300rwhp should be easy with this setup.

Assuming my car is healthy, anyone disagree?

As you can see from my sig, I have a few mods left to do, have most of the remaining parts, just need the time to get them installed. Will post results after my dyno tuning in a few weeks.

K

 

Will someone please tell me how much power I should have?

I've got all the other stuff done (silicone hoses, suspension, etc., so here's the pertinent engine mods....)

very healthy fd (700 miles on engine, fuel filter, etc.)

Apexi PFC/CDR/BC -
NS upgraded Twins - Apexi GT IC - Apexi TC BOV - B&M Ripper - RPS Twin Disc CF - Fluidyne Rad- MSD ignition- SARD fuel pres. reg. - Strut Braces - Tokicos - Denso Fuel pump (for 500hp) - Bonez Downpipe/Midpipe - Greddy SP Catback - Greddy intake Elbow - K&N conicals

runs @ 1.0k/c for race, .7 for street....

 

I just got my FD last night so I am generally a reader not a poster right now. I think I have read damn near this whole forum after all my searchs, but wanted to chime in on this real world experience with my FD.

I baselined my completely stock '93 FD on dyno and pulled 220hp and 198trq. I had RP put on a Koyo rad, alluminum AST, change all the fluids, and a Bonez SS DP. They did a free run again for me after the work and I pulled 227hp and 212trq.

Again, completely stock less than 5 days apart.

Real world on my FD with Bonez DP was +7hp and +14trq. I think that is reasonable gains

 

I'd suggest getting some 1200/1300cc secondaries if you plan to run 1bar reliably..I am not sure when a set of upgraded twins would be out of thier efficiency range but I know that much boost is not a good idea on stock twins. I know you have the pump, and you can raise the fuel pressure some as well.. I just wouldn't try it personally. I think 320rwhp should be attainable assuming your motor has stock ports and is in good running condition.. maybe a bit more depending on your boost. Dyno it!

Matt
93 SSM

 

I don't have a dyno pull with the m2 setup. Thats what M2 claims, and Brian Richards is very conservative. Thats probably on a healthy car with good compression. I do have a dyno sheet of my car making 358.7 rwhp @ 15 psi though. Thats after some more mods though

 

my car did 286 whp with a DP,MP,EX and pettit ECu and i also removed the air box for the dyno run. the car was pushing about 13 psi. it's on a stock motor with 35k original miles.

 

I had a pull of 246RWHP with the following.

K&N stock replacement air filter
Atkins Rotary new motor with mild streetport
Bonez down-pipe
EVERYTHING else was STOCK

I removed muffler and did a 3" straight pipe with stock cat and second run was 260RWHP

added POWER FC with stock IC with maps for mid-size inner cooler just to see what it would do and was 289RWHP

only a 7RWHP gain with a down-pipe install seems to be a bit low. I have seen cars completely stock with down-pipe only install dyno between 235 - 240RWHP

 

SCC Project RX7 ran 301hp with stageIII M2ECU & reliability mods.

 

There are alot of factors here.

One, is that dyno's vary because they are operated by people who make misstakes.

Two, is that most of you guys are running different ecu's with different tuning.

Three, the M2 ecu is EXTREMELY conservitive, if I was going to go upgraded ecu I'd prob go with Pettit.

Fourth, all of you dyno numbers are in different weather

Fifth, and prob the most important is that not everyones motor has perfect compression. You car can drive awsome and have borderline compression causing power loss.

Now, that being said here is what I did. With intake, Full exhaust including a midpipe not a hiflow cat which rob power, and a Power FC with the base map and 12-13psi of boost I ran a 12.3 @ 113, that puts my car right around 300RWHP maybe a hair more with that setup. My motor was making great compression and everything else was bone stock right down to the clutch.

intake, full exhaust, PFC, and 12-13psi of boost is a great combination. If your crafty you can make your own intake saving some money. If you bought everything new its going to run $2200-$2500. If you do things like buy used exhaust (they are all SS so what does it matter) make your own intake and buy a new PFC your could prob do everything for about $1500-$1800

BTW - If he's going to be running at the srag strip tell him to invest in some drag radials. They make as much difference as 40RWHP would.

Good Luck,
STEPHEN

 

The cost of getting a completely stock car to *RELIABLE* 300RWHP is more than just a M2 Kit or whatever.

You need a better clutch (~$500). How's the fuel filter, radiator + coolant hoses, AST, plugs, wires, tires, brakes, shocks, bushings, etc???... This could cost $1000's

Take a stock 10 yr old car and bolt-on a bunch of mods and I predict it'll be toast in ~1yr.

Do the preventative stuff first and then go for the big HP, do it the opposite way and you'll kill your car. Upgrading the other stuff I listed is what separates the good FDs from the not-so good FDs. I'm not saying everything listed needs to be upgraded but the component's condition needs to be checked out. Stock rad might be fine, but at least check it out, etc.

Jeff

 

NO **** !

 

I hit 279HP at 0.8 BAR = 11.376 PSI.

300's is easily attainable with a couple more pounds of boost. Add a midpipe and you'll easily hit 320 if everything is running right. If you're going for straight up dyno numbers I would go with a front mount too because my IC was already warm to the touch before the first run. Like SPAutos said there are WAY too many variables. I think all different dyno graphs probably have an error of +/-5% depending on the day.

 

About a month ago I did 299rwhp @ .8 bar with Apexi Intake, m2 dp, ss mp, greddy PE, HKS twin power, denso fuel pump & power FC with base modmap.

Outside temp was about 50F.
a/f's were low 10's:1 from 3 - 7.5k (rich).

Later that session I did 306rwhp @ .9bar, but with the stock IC it was heatsoaked after six runs... Here is the dyno graph from that. (The 299rwhp @ .8 bar was run 1, not on this chart).

http://flathat.woodstream.net/RX7/Dyno/P4210121.JPG

K

 

u can get that much horsepower with about 1500-2000

 

My Aussie spec FD (RX7 SP 1995 model) put down 318rwhp on our dyno dynamics Australian std units so common here (they read about 15% lower than a dyno jet)

I run following

Stock Engine (55k miles old)
Stock turbo's (sequential)
Stock injectors and fuel pump/system
SMIC (bar plate)
Carbon ram air box for twins
dynoed at 0.9kg/cm boost
HKS DLI
B10EGV plugs
11.0:1 AFR (runs 11.7:1 on road track)
3.5 SBM full CNC madrel bent SS exhaust system, with 4" scat converter single muffler and air pump emissions all working
Apexi Power FC with rice racing tune
Did dyno on Dunlop DO2G semi slick tires (not best for dyno runs)
45deg C charge temps
27 deg Ambient
22% Humidity

Car runs 1.05kg/cm on road and leaner correct tune and pulls 95.6% duty on a warmish days (20 to 25 deg C) My best estimation is its making an honest 400bhp at crank

 

I dynoed at 322rwhp at 12psi of boost. Mods were intake full exhaust (no cats) intercooler, street port ecu and boost controller. At 14psi of boost I should of been around 340rwhp but I did too many runs at lower boost settings plus they couldn't get a tach signal and the car was getting too hot so I shut her down. Just check out the dyno section above for further info.

R.K.

 

I have spent a ton of money on my car and i am currently at 303rwhp at 12.5psi. Look at my sig for my mods but the mods aren't the only thing you spend money on. There are a ton of things that need to be replaced including the suspension peices if you are planning on putting over 300 to the ground. Think safety first always, i just put coilovers on and i'm saving to get new bushings all around and tie rods/toe links. After these things the car will really feel like a 300rwhp car cause without these things it didn't feel like i had control. Anyways good luck making 300rwhp.

 

I hit 262whp this Sunday at 12psi and my mods are 3mm apex seals, mild street port, intake, down pipe, bonez 3" cat, exhaust, and pfc tuned by Kan. Im thinking the dyno was a little short on the numbers or theres some issue with the car im not aware of yet.

 

339.9 RWHP:
http://members.***.net/trevorlj/trevdyno.gif
15 psi
Sequential
11.3:1 AFR's
Power FC with my tune
RX7Fashion Intake
Bomez upper intake pipe
Koyo
NPG-R
ASP Medium SMIC w/10" Spal Fan
Greddy Elbow
SMC denatured alcohol injection (10GPH nozzle)
HKS Twinpower
9's all around
Megan racing downpipe & midpipe
Racing beat catback
Neo Synth driveline fluids
100 octane unleaded for safety
ACT Xtreme plate with a full face street disk
28lb blingin' wheels :p

 

hahaha

 

exactly what my setup is, except with an old trust cb...

 

I made 287rwhp 222ft-lbs tq at 10psi with a conserative tune (AFRs between 10 and 11)on a really really hot day with very high intake temps (damn stock IC)
Mods:
Downpipe,Midpipe,Cat-back, Power FC
Thats it

 

I have:
intake $200
DP $250
CB $550
Ported motor $3500 thanks to the previous owner
Ported trubos $500 thanks to the previous owner
total $5000

at 10psi it will put 300rwhp.

However, 300rwhp can be done with intake/dp/mp/cb and good tuning of the ecu, and all that can be done for under $2000