Hey my friend is aiming for 300rwhp on a FD and hes wondering how much will he spend on mod's alone?

 

Atr full exhaust ought to put you there spending about 1000 if it's a tt.

 

60RWHP+ on exhaust alone? Very unlikely. You'll have to spend a little more than that to make 300.

 

Since this is in the 3rd gen section im guessing its for a 3rd gen. Im guessing if your cars running at 100% you can reach 300 w/ exhaust/intake/downpipe/ecu. That should give you 300hp but not to the wheel.

 

Dude, ALL FDs are TT.

 

I'm running a full straight pipe with an ecu, intake, and SMIC. Anyone know what that makes?

What else could I do to my car except get a new turbo kit?

 

M2 stage 3 will put you at about 315-320 reliable rwhp, and costs $3550. I run alot of their parts on my car and am very happy with the quality. It consists of an intake, downpipe, catback exhaust, intercooler, and remapped ecu. As an alternative you could piece together something. If you want to get fancy or have more potential in the future, go with a standalone computer like power fc or haltech.

 

I have intake, dp, hi flow cat, cb, ecu, 12 psi - 288rwhp. I am sorry but there is no way that an exhaust alone will get you there. You will probably need all that I have plus a pulley set or intercooler or push higer boost.

 

oh and along with all that is reliability mods...don't ever forget those or you will have a dead/dying car. That alone comes into some major $$$.

 

definitely ... Silver93TT, do you have any dyno sheets to post of your 315-320rwhp? i've seen a couple guys with the m2 stage 3 upgrade pushing about 280rwhp. yours is pretty incredible, if that's all you have done to your FD. i'd think you'd need a little extra to get 300+ down to the wheels.

 

I saw a few cars make about 285-290 with the M2 stage 3 setup at 12psi. That's intake, DP, CB, SMIC, and ECU running a very conservative A/F ratio(10:1). A midpipe or some more boost would get into the 300RWHP goal.

 

i agree with red rotor...

my guess...intake..dp..catback...ecu...fuel system...a few more lbs of boost...IC...maybe even the hiflow cat.

thats probably realistic on a conservative level....all in all a few grandola...

 

Goddamit I **** myself off

K, we are talking about RWHP here right? Sooo...does an FD push 255rwhp stock or what??? I always get sooo confused . If the 255 is at the crank, what does that translate to rwhp? (i.e.- what % of our power is lost through the drivetrain?).

Last question...when talking about "uncorrected" HP, which number does this translate to: RWHP or crankHP?

Thanks

 

I guess the question is...

Do you want to do it safely ? then you are going to spend more $$$...

stock is 255 to the flywheel which translates to about 220 to the wheels...so you are basically talking about a increase of 80 rwhp...that's a decent amount if you ask me...and you will need to run a min of 12lbs or very near that to get it on a daily basis...this is just about the max duty cycle of stock injectors...so you need to think about all the usual bolt-ons and things like fuel pumps and possible larger injectors and the corresponding ECU changes...

 

Hey Nathan,

Please don't misrepresent our cars. You're making us look bad.

 

There have been a few people that went with the M2 stage 3 and wasn't even close to getting what they claimed.

 

I've heard of a number of people not hitting the RWHP M2 claims, but I have also witnessed a car with a M2 stage 3 setup, an HKS Super Drager exhaust (new/old? I don't know) and a muffler shop main cat replacement make 309 corrected RWHP on the dyno in 90F heat. I thought it was 314, but I dug up a pic of the dyno sheet and attached it -- 309 RWHP.

It seems that few cars make what they "should" on the dyno. There are a lot of little things that can hold you back from your maximum potential.

-Max

 

Pic's readable. Peak power was at 6500. Hmm. I would have thought with all the work the peak would've moved up a bit.

 

Stock ports kill power up top. That's why everyone that gets a rebuild should get a street port. It is a great mod that wakes the car up at the top end.

-Max

 

Seems like if you use about 10 rwhp per mod it comes out somewhat close to the rwhp your trying to determine. Obviously this is stretching a bit and some mods provide more but this is conservative.

FD (healthy) 220 rwhp
intake 10 rwhp
dp 10 rwhp
intercooler 10 rwhp
hi-flo cat 10 rwhp
catback 10 rwhp
each lb of boost with ecu 10 rwhp
So with full exhaust (hi-flo, not mp) you should be around 290 rwhp at 12 psi (like I said ...conservative)

We all know that a dp is more like 13-20 and the IC (depending on the type) can be 20 rwhp, MPs add more so this same car could also have 320 rwhp, just depends on how healthy the FD is.

 

I'm liking your 10hp per mod theory, Kwikrx7.

Q: Can you explain what a healthy engine means. I mean, what, like good compression, no leaks, good plugs etc?

Ant

 

Yeah, good compression, good plugs and wires, clean fuel filter - basically a well maintained FD

 

He means, the way the car should be running if new. The way Mazda built it. Stock should be around 220rwhp give or take. He's just using that as a baseline, assuming no boost, ignition, other problems.

 

If there is ever such a time when your FD is running at full potential (100% healthy) i would be happy with that!! let alone 300rwhp.

 

I only got 292 with M2 stage 3, using an Apex n1 dual instead of the racing beat exhaust