3 Rotor On ebay
#1
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3 Rotor On ebay
this seems like a good buy 3 rotor with turbos... but kinda shady on the 2 week warrenty
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6755
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6755
#7
Originally posted by rx7racer11
i heard for the conversion it was like 20k ++ but i cant remember for sure
i heard for the conversion it was like 20k ++ but i cant remember for sure
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#9
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Yeah, $3,700 is a lotta money, but look at what ppl pay for single turbo conversions. Anyone know how much HP it has stock ? I would love to put one in my FD. The 2 week warranty would be long gone before I could get it installed. I guess you could do a quick compression check when you receive it.
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its not that bad considering what sr charges for a 3 rotor... and the conversion is soo much because of the engine management and everything is like u need 3 instead of 2 ect ect its not that bad of a deal imho
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conversion
The conversion cost so much because they can...(they only charge i20k because people pay it) and they are redoing the subfram to make it fit.
the real secret is if you know what you're doing you don't need to modify the subframe and it will not throw off the balance or twist the frame if you're making that kind of power
the real secret is if you know what you're doing you don't need to modify the subframe and it will not throw off the balance or twist the frame if you're making that kind of power
#13
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Re: conversion
Originally posted by synergy7
The conversion cost so much because they can...(they only charge i20k because people pay it) and they are redoing the subfram to make it fit.
the real secret is if you know what you're doing you don't need to modify the subframe and it will not throw off the balance or twist the frame if you're making that kind of power
The conversion cost so much because they can...(they only charge i20k because people pay it) and they are redoing the subfram to make it fit.
the real secret is if you know what you're doing you don't need to modify the subframe and it will not throw off the balance or twist the frame if you're making that kind of power
Interesting, I know a lot of people that REALLY do know what they are doing and they would say your wrong.....unless you do like Peter and move the firewall which imho is ghetto, plus the shifter doesnt hit the console in the right place.
The converstions cost a fortune cause it is a *** load of work and parts to make it work. You'd spend about 20K doing it yourself by the time its tuned and running.
engine, subframe, computer, turbos, engine wire harness, ect ect ect. It would just depend on your currect set up as to how much you would have to buy/change.
STEPHEN
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is it just me,
or are there no turbos in this picture,
even though it claims to be a twinturbo engine.
I have a feeling your just going to end up with whats in that pic if you bid on this.
not that its that big of a deal.
but also remember all the other craziness you have to go through to get one of those working in an FD
or are there no turbos in this picture,
even though it claims to be a twinturbo engine.
I have a feeling your just going to end up with whats in that pic if you bid on this.
not that its that big of a deal.
but also remember all the other craziness you have to go through to get one of those working in an FD
#22
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It's funny, after all these years most people don't have a clue about the mythical 20b conversion.
The actual bolting in of the engine is not a huge job. Sure, there are minor problems to deal with but as far as engine swaps go, it is a fairly straight forward procedure.
So, for the cost of the engine and a some extra funds you COULD have the engine in your car. But, what do you have then? Nothing.
The cost comes when you want to actually have the engine make noise.
The ignition system alone can easily cost $2500.00 (if done correctly. Add to that a proper fuel computer and boost management and with fabrication and misc. parts (injectors, fuel pump, lines, fittings, etc.) you can easily be over $5000.00 just to get the thing started.
Then, consider that the turbos will probably need rebuilt on any engine you find. You will also need an intercooler, radiator, fans, clutch, misc. piping, hoses, fittings, and there goes another $5000.00
Then, you throw in a couple more thousand for the things that you didn't even think of and you may have a running car with a 20b.
BUT, what about the chassis you started with? Was it a stock, abused car, or do you already have wheels, proper suspension, brakes & exhaust or do you need to buy all that too. And who wants to unveil their new 3 rotor with old paint and interior. Whew, there goes another $10k (if you have to do everything)
Over the years I have heard hundreds of people talk about how they are going to do the swap. It all goes back to the old addage that if you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it.
Considering the power and reliability available with a properly sorted 2 rotor, and the fact that the majority of people are overwhelmed by the capabililities of a stock FD, it is absurd to do the conversion. It is just for bragging rights.
The actual bolting in of the engine is not a huge job. Sure, there are minor problems to deal with but as far as engine swaps go, it is a fairly straight forward procedure.
So, for the cost of the engine and a some extra funds you COULD have the engine in your car. But, what do you have then? Nothing.
The cost comes when you want to actually have the engine make noise.
The ignition system alone can easily cost $2500.00 (if done correctly. Add to that a proper fuel computer and boost management and with fabrication and misc. parts (injectors, fuel pump, lines, fittings, etc.) you can easily be over $5000.00 just to get the thing started.
Then, consider that the turbos will probably need rebuilt on any engine you find. You will also need an intercooler, radiator, fans, clutch, misc. piping, hoses, fittings, and there goes another $5000.00
Then, you throw in a couple more thousand for the things that you didn't even think of and you may have a running car with a 20b.
BUT, what about the chassis you started with? Was it a stock, abused car, or do you already have wheels, proper suspension, brakes & exhaust or do you need to buy all that too. And who wants to unveil their new 3 rotor with old paint and interior. Whew, there goes another $10k (if you have to do everything)
Over the years I have heard hundreds of people talk about how they are going to do the swap. It all goes back to the old addage that if you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it.
Considering the power and reliability available with a properly sorted 2 rotor, and the fact that the majority of people are overwhelmed by the capabililities of a stock FD, it is absurd to do the conversion. It is just for bragging rights.
#23
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Just to give you an idea for a 3rd gen:
Engine Core: 2400.00
Rebuilt engine (3mm apex seals, clearance, seals, porting, pinning, etc): 5000.00
Computer + Ignition: 2400.00
3Bar map sensor: 160.00
Plugs + Wires: 300.00
Subframe delima: (Pettit 2800.00) or (Other 2500.00)
Radiator & Fans: 739.00
Throttle Body adpater: 250.00
Water neck reducer: 170.00
Power steering cooler: 78.00
2nd oil cooler unit (if not an R model): 160.00
Intercooler: 1500.00 (custom) or 2200.00 (Pettit)
IC Piping: 300.00
Clamps / Hoses : 145.00
Injector fuel rail: 425.00
3x 1600cc injectors: 400.00
Fuel System (3xpump, lines, sump,etc): 875.00
SX FPR: 165.00
Maz PPF: 360.00
KAAZ 1.5w LSD: 775.00
Chromoly Axles: 775.00
Guru Transmission: 5600.00
Tripple Disk clutch (Disk, PP): 890.00
20b Flywheel & Counter weight (remember, all 20b's came with autos!): 625.00
Upgraded front brake kit: 2200.00 (Pettit)
Suspension Coilover kit: 1750.00
Battery Relocation: 145.00
Single Turbo Manifold: 1350.00
DBB Single turbo (700hp): 2300.00
60mm Wastegate: 850.00
Wastegate plumbing: 40.00
Custom Downpipe (4"): 275.00
Custom Midpipe with resonators (4"): 350.00
Custom Exhaust Muffler (4"): 450.00
Misc Clamps / Gaskets: 50.00
Gauges: FPR, BOOST, EGT, WATER TEMP, + PODS: 720.00
. . . . . . . . There are still many things I have not included. But this gives you the basic idea. I have calculated from the amounts above to: $37,472.00
Keep in mind that $37,472.00 does not include labor for installation (HUGE!), tuning, dyno time, fabrication, etc.
The price $37,472.00 also is based off non-pettit items, and purchasing a majority of these items individually like people who try to do it themselves would. Sure, you could knock of a thousand or so if you buy in bulk from one shop, but this gives you the idea.
So, sure... It is real cheap to do.
Mike
Engine Core: 2400.00
Rebuilt engine (3mm apex seals, clearance, seals, porting, pinning, etc): 5000.00
Computer + Ignition: 2400.00
3Bar map sensor: 160.00
Plugs + Wires: 300.00
Subframe delima: (Pettit 2800.00) or (Other 2500.00)
Radiator & Fans: 739.00
Throttle Body adpater: 250.00
Water neck reducer: 170.00
Power steering cooler: 78.00
2nd oil cooler unit (if not an R model): 160.00
Intercooler: 1500.00 (custom) or 2200.00 (Pettit)
IC Piping: 300.00
Clamps / Hoses : 145.00
Injector fuel rail: 425.00
3x 1600cc injectors: 400.00
Fuel System (3xpump, lines, sump,etc): 875.00
SX FPR: 165.00
Maz PPF: 360.00
KAAZ 1.5w LSD: 775.00
Chromoly Axles: 775.00
Guru Transmission: 5600.00
Tripple Disk clutch (Disk, PP): 890.00
20b Flywheel & Counter weight (remember, all 20b's came with autos!): 625.00
Upgraded front brake kit: 2200.00 (Pettit)
Suspension Coilover kit: 1750.00
Battery Relocation: 145.00
Single Turbo Manifold: 1350.00
DBB Single turbo (700hp): 2300.00
60mm Wastegate: 850.00
Wastegate plumbing: 40.00
Custom Downpipe (4"): 275.00
Custom Midpipe with resonators (4"): 350.00
Custom Exhaust Muffler (4"): 450.00
Misc Clamps / Gaskets: 50.00
Gauges: FPR, BOOST, EGT, WATER TEMP, + PODS: 720.00
. . . . . . . . There are still many things I have not included. But this gives you the basic idea. I have calculated from the amounts above to: $37,472.00
Keep in mind that $37,472.00 does not include labor for installation (HUGE!), tuning, dyno time, fabrication, etc.
The price $37,472.00 also is based off non-pettit items, and purchasing a majority of these items individually like people who try to do it themselves would. Sure, you could knock of a thousand or so if you buy in bulk from one shop, but this gives you the idea.
So, sure... It is real cheap to do.
Mike
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Originally posted by itrdanny2001
The Banzai edition from Pettit supposedly pulls 550 hp. Who actually knows what the 20B is good for in a stock form car?
The Banzai edition from Pettit supposedly pulls 550 hp. Who actually knows what the 20B is good for in a stock form car?
mike
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MVAmotorsports had a deal couple months ago. He promised a 600+ WHP FD with a T-88 BB turbo. 3 rotor. etc. for 30k. If you just wanted a stock motor, stock turbos, stock IC. It would run you about 6-8k with the bost of the motor. That is still on the high side though. The only problem in doing the swap is motor mounts and oil pan. But MVA is in the process of selling his custom mounts and pans. So in the next month or so it will be even easier then before. And no you don't have to cut away at your sub-frame like Pettit does.