specs919

I recently nought a nicely kept 1993 rx-7 (my last car was an Evo 8), so far I'm really enjoying my RX-7. I've been reading past threads and have learned alot, but there are some Noobish questions I have that I couldn't find answers for.

1) I read in a thread that another owner uses regular 87 octane gas. The dealer I bought the car from warned me to only use premium 91 octane. Should I use premium or regular?

2) The ride seems kind of rough. It reminds me of my friend's Integra with cut springs. Is it supposed to be like that? Is there an suspension setup I could get to make the ride a bit smoother? (My local tunner shop recommends tein coilovers. Around $600)

3) Can anyone recommend a local shop I could take my car to? I live in Long Beach, CA and needless to say the Mazda dealer is kind of a rip-off.

Thanks in advance for the help.

P.S. Anyone have a quicke fix for the gas cap switch? The latch worked for a week, & just tonight wouldn't open.

Teerx7

iTrader: (2)

1. always use atleast 91 octane....(premium) for some reason my car favor shell..

2.ride depends on what model you have, r1 are more rough...

3. mazdatrix on willow and gundry...but they are pricey and i had bad experiences with them...and they seem to be dicks..(bad customer service)..but overall carry a large supply of parts for these car..

Sukai94

1. always use 91 or higher

2. what suspension is on the car? If it is stock what trim is it?

3. If you think the Mazda dealer is a rip off you'll be in for a surprise. The shops here in California are pretty bad. I have been to numerous "rotary specialty shops" in California and I don't care for any of them (I have even been screwed over by some) The family mechanic (has been for over 25 years) is very experienced with rotaries and I happily pay him $100 an hour to do work on my FD and do it right. If you need an engine rebuild have the core removed and send it to a real rotary shop. I am sending my next motor from California to Florida and back just so Pettit can work on it. Good luck with your car!

DarkLikePoe

If you don't like Mazdatrix - and they CAN be pretty tough to deal with - you can check Tripoint Engineering in Canoga Park. They are also expensive, but their customer service is top notch and you really get what you pay for.

specs919

As far as I can tell the suspension is still stock with some mazda chrome rims. It would appear to be a touring model. (From the leather interior, sunroof & rear windshield).

bajaman

91 octane is MINIMUM recommended...do NOT use anything less unless you like replacing engines.

Stock FD suspension is VERY firm. You WILL feel every expansion joint in the pavement; R1 suspension is pretty much pure race car, gnat turds on the road will cause your kidneys to bleed when you drive over them.

str8ryd

iTrader: (473)

If you think a touring suspension is rough, wait until you get anything else . I'm personally EXTREMELLY happy with my Tanabe coilovers. Tein, on average, and definitely in my experience tend to cause very rough rides. In my friends WRX, I start to get motion sickness from all the bobbing and weaving his suspension transmits. Something to consider...

Teerx7

iTrader: (2)

I would be more than happy to test drive your car and tell you how your suspension feel..i live in long beach also

DCrosby

You can drive with 87 Oct. but stay off the boost, which isn't easy, I don't reccomend it. Stick with 91, you gotta Pay to Play....

Rotary Shops are tough, one of the reasons I converted, was because I couldnn't find someone I trusted... but that didn't change much after the conversion... Start saving for tools, and do stuff yourself...

Suspension it a matter of preference, all I can say is maybe look to a fully adjustbale coilover set, that way you can tune it 'till you like the ride / height.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*93 octane if you can get it.
*Tires are also in the "ride" equation. Cheap old tires will make a difference.

specs919

I have a screwdriver (both philips & flathead), pair of pliers and a hammer. That should be good, right?

skir2222

You should get the factory service manual, follow the line from the lever to the gas cap in the hatch. I would imagine it would be a easy fix.

As for your ruff ride, maybe you can get some new shocks/struts. I rode in a vehicle with KYB GR2's and ride was very nice!

specs919

Thanks everybody. I've decided to try to replace the shocks with tokico illuminas & maybe look into some springs if that doesn't work.

Thanks for the shop info too. Hopefully I won't need goto a rotary specialist if a long time.

Davin

iTrader: (14)

add 4 jack stands, a 196piece tool set, a jack, engine hoist, drill, vice grips, scribe, acid brushes, wire brushes, 3/4 breaker bar, alot of WD40, rubber mallet...