Just wondering if the 3 piece Apex seals are still available (mazda OEM).

PHIL

 

I don't know the answer to your question but why do you want them?!

 

I got RAs if you want them

 

I have a brand new set of 6 and want 3 more to put in my 3 rotor.
I don't know, I think I like the old 3 piece better than the new 2 piece.

 

No.
The new two piece is a far, far better seal.

 

That is what I am running in my motor now. Chris Ott and Ari over at RP had nothing but good things to say about the 2 piece seals.

Care to elaborate as to why you feel the 2 piece is better, Chris? I would think due to the design they would be much more resistant to breaking via detonation than the old 3 piece seals.

Btw, my younger brother is loving the half bridgie in the fb he bought from your buddy Roger. You built that motor, correct?

Rich

 

The 3 piece seal, because it was split length wise would get brittle and many times would actually break after 50-60 thousand miles. The top would also sometimes "roll" out of the apex grove as it wore down...

Mazda had a bad batch of the 2mm 2 piece early on but that was rectified a long time ago.

I drilled/ported only the secondaries on that motor for the bridge I believe.
Roger ported it but I can't remember who put it together as it was a while ago.

 

I have 2piece seals on my new ported 13brew... I just need to install that.

I'm actually building 2 x 20bs. One with 2 piece and since I had 6 new 3piece seals, I thought I go ahead and get 3 more and use it to build the other 20b. If I can't find it, I'll just go ahead and build another 13Brew with the 3 piece seals.

 

Better to use two piece seals if you can find them.

 

Yea 3 piece aren't worth **** in long term, high mileage durability situations.

 

That's exactly why they are better. Also 3 piece don't always break just from detonation. A lot of times it's from the carbon flakes that break away from the rotor face and jam the seal. 2 piece seals (being more structurally sound) can more withstand that kind of abuse and detonation. The top piece of the 3 piece seal is too thin and gets too brittle as the mileage goes up. Look at the older 1st gens and how long those engine lasted. Sure those seals where 2 piece 3mm but they still lasted easily over 200k. Good luck finding a 3 piece original seal engine with that many miles even NA. You may find a few but know where near that of the older 2 piece seal engines(and they had inferior housing coatings). The top piece gets to thin and will flip out the groove. A 2 piece will need to be extremely worn for that to happen. IMHO 3 piece is the biggest mistake Mazda ever did when it came to R&D of the rotary. Hell even though my orginal Fd engine has over 100k, I may open it up just to prevent the seals from going (and I know that could be very soon).

 

does someone have a part# for the OEM 2 piece 3 mm seals? thanks

 

Call Ray at Malloy Mazda 703 490 8263 tell him your on the forum. I just ordered a full set they were 340.00 I think, but springs are not included.

Terry7

 

I had the 3-piece seals in my spare engine and I found one of the seals stuck in the groove.

I mean there was some carbide build up in the groove what made the seal become stuck I understnad this can happen to a 2 piece as well but the smaller the parts, the more grooves, more chance for them to get stuck??

 

The new part number for the two piece is the same part number as the old three piece.

 

Yep! Sometimes the bottom piece will get stuck leaving the top piece in limbo. The top piece will then start bouncing around the housing and eventually breaks.

 

they are extreamly reliable it is the driver to blame if you do power upgrades and pound on the car they will give, if you keep it stock and drive it as a daily driver they will last they are on record with mazda as a 200,000mile seal set under stock conditions, now who in the world would want to drive a stock seven gently i dont know but the seals are not the problem

 

Correct, that is what happend with my engine. the upper part did not break but it was the reason why I got low compression on 2 face of the rear rotor

 

hi everyone,
i'm a 3rd year engineering student at the Uni of Greenwich, UK. i'm doing my final year project on wankel engines so i've been reading a lot about them. must say the info available on this forum is really helpful.
RE-AMEMIYA the famous japanese rotary specialist uses 3 piece seals. those seals go through DLC and WPC treatment processes which gives them more durability and lesser friciton co-efficient.
has anyone used those seals?

 

rhdjapan still offers 3 piece seals

 

Yupp, i know that. There's another website selling them. However, what i wanna know is if someone's using them. What i've figured out is that if it's not oem seals then pts or scr seals are good. For ceramics its nrs and iannetti. But the re-amemiya sound like a very good deal. He's run cars in the gt300 series so im sure he knows what hes doing. Just curious. It'll make my project easier.