261/247? :/
261/247? :/
so i was at a dyno day. i pulled 261hp/247tq best run on a dynojet dyno. dont know how accurate but i was pleased.
here are my mods-
stock rebuilt engine, stock turbos minus air pump, ac, ps
3 in dp, 3in hi flow cat, 3in greddy ti exhaust
xs power smic-no ducting yet :/
apexi twin intakes
apexi bov
lightweight flywheel and act clutch
supra tt pump
could i make more with these mods? or am i just about right?
i am lacking ducting for my smic as well as the bottom under tray; as far as that goes, did i lose power not having those two important things? i plan on ducting, making a tray for the under tray spot, getting a godspeed/mishimoto rad, getting s5 t-stat then eventually getting power fc and possibly injectors after the first tune. i have the opportunity to get a midpipe for really cheap, but was advised not to if i already have a hi flow cat. will all this be enough to get over 300rwhp? what would the max look like that i can achieve? also, how accurate is the dynojet dyno?
Here is my graph. its 3 pulls. it was on a dyno day at Batlground Motorsports on their dyno day and open house on 7/21/12. since it was just a dyno day, just numbers were shown- no iat or afr is shown :/
also here is a video whowing my broken ugly car in a few shots lol
http://vimeo.com/46703070
thanks again all,
marlon from atl
here are my mods-
stock rebuilt engine, stock turbos minus air pump, ac, ps
3 in dp, 3in hi flow cat, 3in greddy ti exhaust
xs power smic-no ducting yet :/
apexi twin intakes
apexi bov
lightweight flywheel and act clutch
supra tt pump
could i make more with these mods? or am i just about right?
i am lacking ducting for my smic as well as the bottom under tray; as far as that goes, did i lose power not having those two important things? i plan on ducting, making a tray for the under tray spot, getting a godspeed/mishimoto rad, getting s5 t-stat then eventually getting power fc and possibly injectors after the first tune. i have the opportunity to get a midpipe for really cheap, but was advised not to if i already have a hi flow cat. will all this be enough to get over 300rwhp? what would the max look like that i can achieve? also, how accurate is the dynojet dyno?
Here is my graph. its 3 pulls. it was on a dyno day at Batlground Motorsports on their dyno day and open house on 7/21/12. since it was just a dyno day, just numbers were shown- no iat or afr is shown :/
also here is a video whowing my broken ugly car in a few shots lol
http://vimeo.com/46703070
thanks again all,
marlon from atl
Last edited by tytemf5; Aug 2, 2012 at 01:51 PM. Reason: messed up
You definitely need ducting.
You dont need to make it yourself as most SMIC ducting is compatible from one SMIC to another, as there are a few variants but they almost all work for each.
As for the undertray, you're better off finding a good used one instead of making your own. They're pretty cheap, unless you buy new.
Looking at your graph, you can already see you're loosing almost 30hp on the 3rd run and that can be cause by the high IAT's because you're not ducted.
Your numbers are decent, for now.
An PFC and proper tuning will get you to 300+hp, but you still need to make sure your ignition is good to go or you're not going to see much benefit.
just remember that the more you beat on it, the hotter your IATs will become from lack of ducting, the higher the risk of popping your engine regardless of having a fuel pump
You dont need to make it yourself as most SMIC ducting is compatible from one SMIC to another, as there are a few variants but they almost all work for each.
As for the undertray, you're better off finding a good used one instead of making your own. They're pretty cheap, unless you buy new.
Looking at your graph, you can already see you're loosing almost 30hp on the 3rd run and that can be cause by the high IAT's because you're not ducted.
Your numbers are decent, for now.
An PFC and proper tuning will get you to 300+hp, but you still need to make sure your ignition is good to go or you're not going to see much benefit.
just remember that the more you beat on it, the hotter your IATs will become from lack of ducting, the higher the risk of popping your engine regardless of having a fuel pump
Stock ecu, yes. Isnt stock boost 10psi? Lol thanks for all The comments! As for The under tray, i have an autoexe front bumper- dont think The stocl tray Will fit as The bumper is lower and bigger?
Stock boost is suppose to be 10psi, but that doesn't mean you are hitting 10. Providing afr, and boost would help out. If you are under 10psi you have an issue, and that explains why your power is low.
Over 10 psi, and you should have a different ecu, and get it tuned.
Over 10 psi, and you should have a different ecu, and get it tuned.
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If that's with the stock ECU and stock boost, those are good numbers. The most we've seen on the forum with those was around 266rwhp. Even at 10 PSI, that's a hefty increase as a healthy stock FD would dyno around 225 rwhp.
I highly recommend your next upgrades be:
Propper shrouding
PFC
If you don't want to pay for a custom tune, Chris @ rotary performance in dallas can sell you a new one with a very good base tune in it.
Propper shrouding
PFC
If you don't want to pay for a custom tune, Chris @ rotary performance in dallas can sell you a new one with a very good base tune in it.
What boost are you running? Do you know? Do you care? 
You can't really judge dyno numbers with no measure of boost. At 10 psi those are good numbers. At 14 psi they are bad, and you are risking blowing your engine.
You can't really judge dyno numbers with no measure of boost. At 10 psi those are good numbers. At 14 psi they are bad, and you are risking blowing your engine.
I wouldn't try to go for anymore power on your setup as it is now. Stock ecu with dp, cat back, high flow cat, upgraded ic and intakes is probably as far as you want to push things, especially if you don't know what boost or afr's you are running.
I made 285rwhp on stock ecu at 10lbs about 7-8 years ago. I know JacobCartmill back in the day was running mid to high 12s in the 1/4 mile on stock ecu at 10-11psi with full exhaust. Its been years since all that was done and tried so I apologize for not remembering the exact numbers. I could be mistaken but Im pretty sure there are several dynos in the 280+rwhp on the stoc ecu over the years.
Are you not running a boost gauge? Pretty ballsy if not, or you just want to buy a new engine/rebuild soon. Also, reinstall the stock IC and duct as I gaurantee it is better than whatever stock mount you are running WITHOUT a duct.
Last edited by djseven; Aug 9, 2012 at 08:36 AM.
whoa! to answer the questions-
yes i am at the stock 10-8-10.
yes i have a boost gauge- yes i hit 10-8-10; sometimes it'll shoot up to 12-8-10. i wasnt in the car when he was running the dyno. in the video i was the guy in red shorts and blue shirt.
my stock ic piping had a split, so yeah id rather duct than go look for old plastic piping.
i planned on adding to the stock ic ducting to "reduct" my xs-power ic(60 bucks shipped) lol.
yes i am at the stock 10-8-10.
yes i have a boost gauge- yes i hit 10-8-10; sometimes it'll shoot up to 12-8-10. i wasnt in the car when he was running the dyno. in the video i was the guy in red shorts and blue shirt.
my stock ic piping had a split, so yeah id rather duct than go look for old plastic piping.
i planned on adding to the stock ic ducting to "reduct" my xs-power ic(60 bucks shipped) lol.
yea dude, you definitely need ducting.
I bought my greddy smic without ducting and have been experimenting with pre-made ducts within the past year and ended up fabricating a hybrid. PM me if you need ideas. I also have a larger duct laying around you can have for cheap.
I bought my greddy smic without ducting and have been experimenting with pre-made ducts within the past year and ended up fabricating a hybrid. PM me if you need ideas. I also have a larger duct laying around you can have for cheap.
