200MPH Club
11-28-07, 09:40 AM
#26
The king of the highway!
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trust me. with easily 4-450 you can hit 200 (maybe more) the gearing is good for 200mph. I didnt want to start the flame war but i hit 206mph long time ago. After the new tunning i supposed to get it on video so it will show. Crazy dane hit 180 easily in a tunnel. i found out when i was at 5 1/2 k @ 185 so the gearing isnt it. and these cars have great aerodynamics
11-28-07, 10:09 AM
#30
http://www.kabamus.com/garage/gears.html
Throw the numbers in yourself and see how fast you're going at x rpm in x gear with x transmission ratio and x final drive ratio.
Throw the numbers in yourself and see how fast you're going at x rpm in x gear with x transmission ratio and x final drive ratio.
11-28-07, 10:10 AM
#31
first of all, you cant get past 180 cause the speed limiter wont let you go above 178.
i used a top speed calculator to find out top speeds in each gear with the stock gear ratios and this is the result-
1st: 37mph
2nd: 64mph
3rd: 94mph
4th: 130mph
5th: 182mph
so adamc is 100 percent correct
try it yourself----(the ones already pluged in are for a 240sx, just fill in your ratios and wat not to figure out your top speed or the stocks top speed):
http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/tyres.html
11-28-07, 10:16 AM
#32
packin' heat
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I think that racing beat car flipped over because it didn't have aerodynamics for that speed. The car's aerodynamics looks like a stock R1, now I don't think an R1's aerodynamics were designed to keep the car stable at 215 mph. Maybe the car had underbody aerodynamics?
11-28-07, 11:41 AM
#34
I was riding in a buddys fd when we hit 180mph before he shut it down. I dont know what rpm we were at because I was too busy shitting my pants. It feels a whole lot faster when you are in the passenger seat and not controlling the car. I do remember him saying we had more room to go, but we were in a 60-1 hifi fd that was running about 15-16lbs. I dont know if the car had much more in it powerwise to go much faster. It took a long time to go from 140-180.
11-28-07, 11:59 AM
#36
well I mean I practically went 170mph (167) on twins at only about 11 to 12psi, 180-200 seems totally reasonable with a single around 15psi.
From my video I got this info.
140mph @ 5100rpm
165-170mph (almost looks on the money at 170mph but not sure) @ 6400rpm
My redline is set at 8100rpm
From my video I got this info.
140mph @ 5100rpm
165-170mph (almost looks on the money at 170mph but not sure) @ 6400rpm
My redline is set at 8100rpm
Last edited by DMoneyRX-7; 11-28-07 at 12:27 PM.
11-28-07, 03:59 PM
#39
I don't think people are understanding the issue here.... It is NOT a HP problem it is a gearing/rpm limiting problem.
On a side note I've been 191mph in a 430rwhp t66 powered FD with stock fifth
and final drive gear. The FD was running a 275/40 17 which is about the same as stock hight. RPM reached was 8,2XX and mph was read off of the pfc. Oh yeah and the only reason I shut in down was because you find out you reach traffic VERY fast @ 191mph... The car was definitely still pulling though
-J
On a side note I've been 191mph in a 430rwhp t66 powered FD with stock fifth
and final drive gear. The FD was running a 275/40 17 which is about the same as stock hight. RPM reached was 8,2XX and mph was read off of the pfc. Oh yeah and the only reason I shut in down was because you find out you reach traffic VERY fast @ 191mph... The car was definitely still pulling though
-J
11-28-07, 04:14 PM
#41
I have hit 175mph NO PROBLEM before. I could have kept on going.... there was plenty of road left BUT the cop that I blew by at a CLOCKED 152mph made me stop..... lol
It is definitely possible with the right gearing. My new Ford 8.8" rearend will have 4.33 gears so I won't be able to reach 200mph. If the cop wouldn't have been there I would have kept on truckin'.
It is definitely possible with the right gearing. My new Ford 8.8" rearend will have 4.33 gears so I won't be able to reach 200mph. If the cop wouldn't have been there I would have kept on truckin'.
11-28-07, 04:21 PM
#42
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Wow, That is pretty quick, The most I have taken mine up to is 160. I would love to break 200mph one day. Silver state is definitely in my sights.
But so is a rotary powered RV6 or 8 that cruises at 200mph+ and still gets 20mpg+
Silver State Classic Challenge SEPTEMBER 18-21, 2008
Who is interested in doing this event? Only $200.00 for 90 miles As fast as you can run! Anyone care to caravan from Alabama?
But so is a rotary powered RV6 or 8 that cruises at 200mph+ and still gets 20mpg+
Silver State Classic Challenge SEPTEMBER 18-21, 2008
Who is interested in doing this event? Only $200.00 for 90 miles As fast as you can run! Anyone care to caravan from Alabama?
11-28-07, 04:39 PM
#45
Wow, That is pretty quick, The most I have taken mine up to is 160. I would love to break 200mph one day. Silver state is definitely in my sights.
But so is a rotary powered RV6 or 8 that cruises at 200mph+ and still gets 20mpg+
Silver State Classic Challenge SEPTEMBER 18-21, 2008
Who is interested in doing this event? Only $200.00 for 90 miles As fast as you can run! Anyone care to caravan from Alabama?
But so is a rotary powered RV6 or 8 that cruises at 200mph+ and still gets 20mpg+
Silver State Classic Challenge SEPTEMBER 18-21, 2008
Who is interested in doing this event? Only $200.00 for 90 miles As fast as you can run! Anyone care to caravan from Alabama?
-J
11-28-07, 04:43 PM
#46
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11-28-07, 04:49 PM
#47
A few reasons you should question the accuracy of any high-speed claims:
1) the speedo has error, which is proportional to speed. If you're driving 60 and it reads 62, not a big deal. If you manage to make it read 186, it's really 180. That's just speedo error.
2) Your wheels will change in diameter as they increase in speed, in addition to any difference in wheel diameter if they aren't exactly stock size.
3) Wind is an absolute effect. 5mph tailwind is 5mph additional top speed. Stock gearing is ratioed such that you'd break the rear axles topping out the top of 5th. Top of 4th is actually asking quite a lot, so you're limited by drag. So any serious speed claim needs to be an average of two equal drives done in both directions.
Dave
1) the speedo has error, which is proportional to speed. If you're driving 60 and it reads 62, not a big deal. If you manage to make it read 186, it's really 180. That's just speedo error.
2) Your wheels will change in diameter as they increase in speed, in addition to any difference in wheel diameter if they aren't exactly stock size.
3) Wind is an absolute effect. 5mph tailwind is 5mph additional top speed. Stock gearing is ratioed such that you'd break the rear axles topping out the top of 5th. Top of 4th is actually asking quite a lot, so you're limited by drag. So any serious speed claim needs to be an average of two equal drives done in both directions.
Dave
11-28-07, 05:03 PM
#48
Please somebody help!!!
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I want to join the 200mph club on the tehas mile.
I don't think i'd even trust the stock trans or rear end at 200mph. I don't understand why some of you are hell bent on trying that.
I don't think i'd even trust the stock trans or rear end at 200mph. I don't understand why some of you are hell bent on trying that.
11-28-07, 06:29 PM
#50
Food for thought:
The stock FD puts about 255hp to the flywheel. It's also rated to for a drag-limited top speed of 155mph.
The drag force goes up with the cube of power. Assuming for a moment the same gear ratio will take you to 200mph also:
(155mph)³/(200mph)³ = 255hp/X. X must equal 547hp. So going only 29% faster requires over twice the power. And it's not that clean, since you won't get there in the same gear - you've got to change gears and lose leverage and efficiency, meaning the engine needs even more power.
Some notes on the Bonneville experiment: high speed runs at Bonneville differ from wind tunnel preparations and asphalt driving. The entrained sand/salt that follows along in the wash of the car actually slows it down substantially. Essentially, the sand makes the air heavier and with more drag. There are many unknowns, and Racing Beat was not the first nor last group to run at Bonneville and add such a painful data point to their knowledge.
Another point: the stock FD has a positive coefficient of lift, which you'd want to resolve before heading to do a really high speed run. Adjust the aerodynamics to produce a downward lift coefficient and you will incur more drag. The extra drag will really add to the amount of torque required to drive a car *stably* at such high speeds. Ride height is also a major factor - you'd need really stiff springs and very low ground clearance to improve aerodynamics. Which is why most street cars with 500hp are not safe to drive at top speed - the aerodynamics simply aren't built for doing it safely.
Anyway, enough armchair BS. It takes a lot of car, more than just engine.
Dave
The stock FD puts about 255hp to the flywheel. It's also rated to for a drag-limited top speed of 155mph.
The drag force goes up with the cube of power. Assuming for a moment the same gear ratio will take you to 200mph also:
(155mph)³/(200mph)³ = 255hp/X. X must equal 547hp. So going only 29% faster requires over twice the power. And it's not that clean, since you won't get there in the same gear - you've got to change gears and lose leverage and efficiency, meaning the engine needs even more power.
Some notes on the Bonneville experiment: high speed runs at Bonneville differ from wind tunnel preparations and asphalt driving. The entrained sand/salt that follows along in the wash of the car actually slows it down substantially. Essentially, the sand makes the air heavier and with more drag. There are many unknowns, and Racing Beat was not the first nor last group to run at Bonneville and add such a painful data point to their knowledge.
Another point: the stock FD has a positive coefficient of lift, which you'd want to resolve before heading to do a really high speed run. Adjust the aerodynamics to produce a downward lift coefficient and you will incur more drag. The extra drag will really add to the amount of torque required to drive a car *stably* at such high speeds. Ride height is also a major factor - you'd need really stiff springs and very low ground clearance to improve aerodynamics. Which is why most street cars with 500hp are not safe to drive at top speed - the aerodynamics simply aren't built for doing it safely.
Anyway, enough armchair BS. It takes a lot of car, more than just engine.
Dave