RX7Junkman

amsoil $6 for a quart @ murrays speed & custom, used to use klotz but at $11 bucks a quart no thanx, I had no OMP used 1oz every gallon, but put back the omp back in and use 1/2 oz every gallon.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Oops, I was being sarcastic.

I can see being a little **** about your two-stroke oil if you have no OMP, but as a supplement all I need to see is "TCW-3".

What makes the high dollar pre-mixes so special, anyways? I mean, all it has to do is lubricate and meet low ash standards. It's not like motor oil in the sense that it has to do the job for thousands of miles, it is constantly being replaced when fuel is injected.

bajaman

Believe me, I have asked that same question many times. Not sure about the answer.
Bastards probably just do it because they CAN.

FDWarrior

iTrader: (6)

Im using amsoil hp injector in my fd.

Kento

Um...a pre-mix oil has to do a lot more. As in have good dilution (mixing with fuel) and dispersal characteristics, optimum flash points, not leave gum deposits, minimal effect on fuel properties, etc. And believe it or not, various oils (yes, even pre-mix) have differing friction properties. I'm not saying that all high-dollar premix oils are worth the prices charged, nor am I saying that any high-dollar premix oil will give you more hp. I'm only saying that there's no truth to the continuing "motor oil is motor oil" myth.

If all a pre-mix oil had to do was "lubricate and meet low ash standards", then the countless World Grand Prix two-stroke racers of the past must have wasted their money on obtaining very expensive castor-based premix oils...
Right, it's not like motor oil that never has to suffer severe dilution before it must endure the far higher temps and extremely harsh environment of the combustion chamber...
If any company in an open market looked at their retail pricing in such a simplistic manner, they wouldn't survive very long; people would eventually stop buying their products.

rc51king

royal purple TCW3. Advanced auto parts. 7 bucks a quart.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

For me it'e synthetic blend Pennzoil in a gallon container for like 12.50 at just about any Walmart or some auto parts stores. I pretty much got my answer about this premix being good enough for me or not when I had to pull apart my my street-ported 6-port after 25,000 miles of running Pennzoil and my apex seals, rotor housing and the intermediate and front housing looked great!! The reason for me having to disassemble it can be found in post#5 in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/what-would-easier-change-clucth-whole-s5-na-swap-688562/

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

I understand, but the NMMA TC-W3 test checks lubricity and all that stuff.

I mean, most of the no-name tc-w3's are made by big companies. According to the NMMA site, the walmart "super tech" oil is made by Shell. I use this, or castrol super outboard.

Kento

The NMMA TC-W3 is a qualification standard. It's a good standard, but all the certification means is that the oil has met the minimum qualifications.
Rebadged product is a common practice everywhere, but it doesn't mean that all expensive premix oils are a waste of money, have no advantages over an NMMA TC-W3 labeled oil, and/or are nothing but a money-gouging scam...

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Well, it's good enough for me.

Kento

Never said it shouldn't be. But stating that all premix oil has to do is "lubricate and meet low ash standards" is a very poor generalization that is very misleading.