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2 Failed Sensors, is that really the problem?

Old May 10, 2006 | 10:41 AM
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2 Failed Sensors, is that really the problem?

So some of you guys know I've been having some issues here.

1. While driving the car, it'll just shut down unexpectedly. Turns out I would lose spark for no reason.
2. Add coolant light came on, filled it (it was low)
3. I checked new, about 1 week old spark plugs and they all were completely black. (And I didn't drive the car that much, especially since this was going on)
4. Its hard to start sometimes, whether hot or cold

I have noticed that upon start up there was a little white (not a thick white, but more of a clearer white), maybe condisation, maybe bad coolant seal.

Got it towed 33 miles to a RX-7 tech at a schaumburg mazda dealership to check out whats going on. First off, they found a small coolant leak behind the TB. All it needed was a new hose clamp. Fix for #2 possibly.

No biggie, secondly they found that the Air Intake Sensor, and the Crank Angle Positioning Sensor (will use CAPS from now on) have failed. The mechanic told me that the CAPS would cause the car to lose spark, which would take care on #1 and possibly #3.

2 hours of labor @ 100$ an hour, plus another 600 and some odd dollar amount in parts (for the 2 sensors), then they'll charge me to install the them. Is this correct? They also said that they couldn't scan the car because of these sensors being failed, so once they take care of the sensor's they can then scan the car to see if something else has gone wrong. Am I getting ripped off here?

Well despite all of that, the mechanic proceeded to tell me that,

Mechanic: Your car is rigged up pretty good.
Me: What do you mean rigged up?
Mechanic: Things are just put together sloopely.
Me: Really? I'll call the previous owner and see who installed the engine.
Mechanic: Well I got more bad news to tell you, since your not the one who paid for this warranty that you left in the car..you dont have any warranty.

What should I do guys? Take it to another place? I've already spent all my "Just in case money", I already owe my mom 242, 112 for towing, 130 for buying my medicine (I have pharingitus and sinusitis), owe my g/f 100 for the part of the tow to the dealership, got my cell phone, and car bill to pay.
Im down to about 500$, 275 will goto the cell phone and car bill which leaves me a total of about 225.

I just got this car about 1 month ago, and this is so discouraging. Im so stressed out about the car, and I have my finals for my EMT class and national testing coming up. I know that I'd have to make repairs on the car, and I know that they are expensive..but I didn't think this would happen so soon. The motor was rebuilt about 1900 miles ago! Well it's time to study, I appreciate all the advice and help you guys can give.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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What warranty? Aftermarket? Those are typically transferrable and you'll have to get with that company to see who's authorized to service if in fact it is Mazda.

How did they determine how it failed. They can't scan the car becuse they failed but how do they know? What ECU are you running, stock?

If not, with those mods, I'd start thinking about it.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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Did you get any paperword when you ourchased the car to comfirm that there was a rebuilt motor installed 1900 miles ago?

Who rebuilt the motor?

Did you get a compression check?

Do you have a daily driver?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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The warranty (parts only) that came with the rebuild from Malloy. It is the stock ECU. Im gonna call Malloy about this warranty.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:18 AM
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The 7 is the DD for now, Malloy was the rebuilder, got the paperwork on the rebuild which was done in july (but no indication as to how many actual miles are on it, went off of previous owners word, plus I doubt with a DD he'd drive the 7 in the snow)
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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Pay him for the labor and fix it yourself. Those two sensors are not that bad to replace, and you can probably buy them both for $50 from someone on the forum (PM Fritz Flynn - he always has the parts I need).

As far as scanning for codes, I don't see why either of those sensors would keep you from scanning. Just jump the terminals in the diagnostic box and turn the ignition on - then watch the check engine light for the codes. It is easy and there are instructions posted in the 3rd gen FAQ section.

$600 is a rip off - ****, for $600 I'd consider driving to illinois and putting them in myself.

-Charlie
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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Get a DD and an ECU upgrade quickly.


Also, find out who installed the rebuilt engine.


I thought that Malloy only sold remans and that they were done by AC Delco......

....... or have I been away from the board for that long and everything has changed?

Last edited by FormerPorscheGuy; May 10, 2006 at 11:32 AM.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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charliegt, how easy are we talkin here? I do have quite the set of hand tools. Would it be possible to replace both sensors with hand tools?

I would've thought replacing the crank angle pos. sensor would require taking off the pulley?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Check the wiring to the cas. The wiring itself goes bad more often than the sensors. Symptoms include the car randomly stalling, especially when hot and the tach bouncing. The sensors can be tested according to the mazda manual to see if they are in spec. What I like to do in this case is run new wires all the way from the ecu to the cas. Make sure you use the proper shielded wire. I have extra sensors if yours turn out to be bad. I have an extra intake temp sensor too. Shoot me a pm.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BuffDaddy915
charliegt, how easy are we talkin here? I do have quite the set of hand tools. Would it be possible to replace both sensors with hand tools?

I would've thought replacing the crank angle pos. sensor would require taking off the pulley?
Download the factory service manual for sure. Taking off the upper intake manifold can take some time, and will be frustrating the first time you do it - but it doesn't require anymore than a metric socket set and a few sets of pliars. The air intake temp sensor is located on the underside of the manifold. I almost remember someone saying they removed their without pulling the manifold - but that could be tricky.

I must admit that I've never removed the CAS, but it looks like they are both just on a bracket next to the pulley and it shouldn't be too big of a job to remove them.

Replacing those parts isn't the easiest thing to do, but it is worth saving $600. Not to mention you'll start to get more familiar with your car and be able to fix/replace more parts in the future (which will save you even more money).

-Charlie
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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Ok. I know I wanna pull my car outta there..badly. But the thing is, if they do legitimately find something else then I dont wanna be stuck towing it yet again. I've been calling around, and trying to network with all the old school rotary mechanic's around here, seeing which ones worked on 3rd gens and who can help me.

I see alittle light at the end of this long tunnel.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:37 AM
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See how far you are from http://www.a-spectuning.com/
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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I would just take it to A-spec Tuning and have them take a look at it. They're local and the majority of the cars they work on are RX7s. Here's there website:

http://www.a-spectuning.com/

I would just shoot them an email because its easier to get a hold of them that way.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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Ya, the car is in the same vacinity as A-Spec, but was told they're booked for the next 4 weeks. Although I am gonna be ordering the sensors from them.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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At least run the diagnostic and see what is actually wrong. Every part on these cars is expensive, and if you just buy new because the mechanic told you it was bad, you're going to run out of money fast.

Good example : I took mine to a Mazda dealer after trying to solve the problem myself for a few months. The dealer had a guy there that was an "expert" when it comes to RX7s. They called me and told me that the fuel pump was bad and it would be an additional $750 to replace it (on top of the $200 they charged me to diagnose). I told them I'd think about it - then I brought the car home and ordered a used one from Fritz Flynn for $40 and installed in myself in about an hour. Turns out, the problem wasn't the fuel pump and I saved myself $710.

It's your car, and if you have the money then by all means let them replace every part on it - but if money is tight, I suggest reading over the factory service manual and learning how to work on it yourself.

-Charlie
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Old May 11, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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They do have a pretty good RX7 mechanic at the schaumburg dealer. If I am not mistaken one of the best in the area. What was his name?

After looking at my crank angle sensers, I think you will have to remove the pully. You will have to remove the bracket off of studs wich the pully would interfear with. Shoot me a PM if would like some help. My phone is back on now.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Would a bad ecu throw a CEL???
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