1st Gear Pull
10-23-12, 05:49 PM
#1
1st Gear Pull
I'm getting ready to store my rx7 for the winter and I have a question that may be pretty simple to answer about my first gear pull. When ever a light turns green I always feel as if I have to give it more gas just to keep up with the other cars. In second gear there is no doubt that if I give gas it will pull but my first gear as always fells like it has less torque. I am also not sure if I am the only one with this issue, so does anyone know why every gear has torque besides first and fifth? I have BNR stage 3 sequentials
10-23-12, 06:06 PM
#2
None of the gears have any torque at low rpm. When you start out in first you are at low rpm. Most of the time after shifting, you are at higher rpm than when you move from a stop.
The important question is: Does you car accelerate properly above 4000 rpm in 1st gear?
The important question is: Does you car accelerate properly above 4000 rpm in 1st gear?
10-24-12, 05:16 AM
#4
He's talking about low end torque and drivability not a WOT 1st gear run.
Is this your first standard car? Keep in mind, now you have to shift, whereas every other car on the road is an automatic and it shifts in less than a second. Driving from stop light to stop light I'm always losing to mini vans and what not to get up to speed. Partly it's my grandma driving, and partly its because everyone else is automatic.
If you feel your car is running INSUFFICIENTLY in the low end, maybe we have another problem. Id your air pump deleted? Your air pump has secondary injection air in low end and idle. If its not properly deleted, then you will run rich at idle and low end.
Matt
Is this your first standard car? Keep in mind, now you have to shift, whereas every other car on the road is an automatic and it shifts in less than a second. Driving from stop light to stop light I'm always losing to mini vans and what not to get up to speed. Partly it's my grandma driving, and partly its because everyone else is automatic.
If you feel your car is running INSUFFICIENTLY in the low end, maybe we have another problem. Id your air pump deleted? Your air pump has secondary injection air in low end and idle. If its not properly deleted, then you will run rich at idle and low end.
Matt
10-24-12, 08:45 AM
#6
He's talking about low end torque and drivability not a WOT 1st gear run.
Is this your first standard car? Keep in mind, now you have to shift, whereas every other car on the road is an automatic and it shifts in less than a second. Driving from stop light to stop light I'm always losing to mini vans and what not to get up to speed. Partly it's my grandma driving, and partly its because everyone else is automatic.
If you feel your car is running INSUFFICIENTLY in the low end, maybe we have another problem. Id your air pump deleted? Your air pump has secondary injection air in low end and idle. If its not properly deleted, then you will run rich at idle and low end.
Matt
Is this your first standard car? Keep in mind, now you have to shift, whereas every other car on the road is an automatic and it shifts in less than a second. Driving from stop light to stop light I'm always losing to mini vans and what not to get up to speed. Partly it's my grandma driving, and partly its because everyone else is automatic.
If you feel your car is running INSUFFICIENTLY in the low end, maybe we have another problem. Id your air pump deleted? Your air pump has secondary injection air in low end and idle. If its not properly deleted, then you will run rich at idle and low end.
Matt
Thanks, and it's atleast good to know I'm not the only one getting left behind by minivans lol
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10-24-12, 06:21 PM
#9
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1000 to 1500 is pretty low on every rotary I've been in or driven. Granted I've never been in an FD, so maybe it's different. Around 3k is where my car likes to be for a smooth start.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
10-24-12, 08:41 PM
#10
1000 to 1500 is pretty low on every rotary I've been in or driven. Granted I've never been in an FD, so maybe it's different. Around 3k is where my car likes to be for a smooth start.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
10-24-12, 08:45 PM
#11
So you are saying your frustrated because you have to try to beat mini vans away from lights during normal acceleration using a racing clutch?
Let the vans win your ego will be ok... I think you are under estimating the driving aggression of a soccer mom in her mini van, they are generally in a rush to get some where.
Let the vans win your ego will be ok... I think you are under estimating the driving aggression of a soccer mom in her mini van, they are generally in a rush to get some where.
10-24-12, 08:59 PM
#12
So you are saying your frustrated because you have to try to beat mini vans away from lights during normal acceleration using a racing clutch?
Let the vans win your ego will be ok... I think you are under estimating the driving aggression of a soccer mom in her mini van, they are generally in a rush to get some where.
Let the vans win your ego will be ok... I think you are under estimating the driving aggression of a soccer mom in her mini van, they are generally in a rush to get some where.
Race clutch + Low rpm + Rich at low rpms = Bogging.
My car doesn't like to take off smoothly anywhere under 2.5kish, and that's with a stage 2+ clutch.
10-25-12, 06:10 AM
#13
1000 to 1500 is pretty low on every rotary I've been in or driven. Granted I've never been in an FD, so maybe it's different. Around 3k is where my car likes to be for a smooth start.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
10-25-12, 06:11 AM
#14
So you are saying your frustrated because you have to try to beat mini vans away from lights during normal acceleration using a racing clutch?
Let the vans win your ego will be ok... I think you are under estimating the driving aggression of a soccer mom in her mini van, they are generally in a rush to get some where.
Let the vans win your ego will be ok... I think you are under estimating the driving aggression of a soccer mom in her mini van, they are generally in a rush to get some where.
10-25-12, 09:20 AM
#16
I think the answers are getting over complicated.
To the OP, have you watched your boost gauge? In first gear it's difficult to make much boost regardless of rpm because there's not enough load. I think that's why you don't feel "torque". Second, and subsequent gears, it's much easier to see boost...and more of it.
To the OP, have you watched your boost gauge? In first gear it's difficult to make much boost regardless of rpm because there's not enough load. I think that's why you don't feel "torque". Second, and subsequent gears, it's much easier to see boost...and more of it.
10-25-12, 10:55 AM
#17
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Releasing the clutch at 2500+ rpm on the street? Um, completely unnecessary and will lead to accelerated disc wear. Around 1000 up to maybe 1500 sounds right for a modded FD w light flywheel.
10-25-12, 11:20 AM
#18
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^ Agreed, I think people need to practice driving stick.
I have one of the lightest flywheels available and an unsprung hub clutch and can take off from a stop light at less than 1500 RPM all of the time.
1000 to 1500 is pretty low on every rotary I've been in or driven. Granted I've never been in an FD, so maybe it's different. Around 3k is where my car likes to be for a smooth start.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
You can tell you're not giving it enough gas if the car is jerking. There are probably other ways to tell too, but I dunno that's how I tell. If your start isn't smooth and the car is jerking/bouncing you need to give it more gas.
10-25-12, 12:38 PM
#19
So 1000 or 2500 ? because I have been driving my fd for 2 years releasing at 1000 to 1500, at 1000 it sometimes Boggs a little because of the stage 3 clutch and lightened fly wheel.
Either way ill probably be the slower ones leaving a green light unless I give it a lot more gas, if there isn't enough boost in first gear is this the issue?
Thanks for the responses
Either way ill probably be the slower ones leaving a green light unless I give it a lot more gas, if there isn't enough boost in first gear is this the issue?
Thanks for the responses
10-25-12, 01:38 PM
#20
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What ecu do you have? who did the tuning?
It may be an issue with the tune. When I first installed my Haltech the low rpm cells were too lean and caused a bucking/stalling issue making it look like I had no idea what I was doing. I had to rev the car and engage the clutch at a much higher RPM, same as what you are doing. Once I richened up the cells the drivability was significantly improved.
It may be an issue with the tune. When I first installed my Haltech the low rpm cells were too lean and caused a bucking/stalling issue making it look like I had no idea what I was doing. I had to rev the car and engage the clutch at a much higher RPM, same as what you are doing. Once I richened up the cells the drivability was significantly improved.
10-25-12, 02:24 PM
#21
Look at it this way Fd3s guy, when a lightend flywheel and a racing clutch are used its not going to drive away from a stop like a stock car. Thats just the how it is.
If there is an issue with the power deliverly, describe it a little more.
He has a PFC ecu. Thewird tuned it.
If there is an issue with the power deliverly, describe it a little more.
He has a PFC ecu. Thewird tuned it.
10-26-12, 05:33 PM
#23
Look at it this way Fd3s guy, when a lightend flywheel and a racing clutch are used its not going to drive away from a stop like a stock car. Thats just the how it is.
If there is an issue with the power deliverly, describe it a little more.
He has a PFC ecu. Thewird tuned it.
If there is an issue with the power deliverly, describe it a little more.
He has a PFC ecu. Thewird tuned it.
Last edited by fd3sguyy; 10-26-12 at 05:37 PM.
10-26-12, 07:53 PM
#25
In first gear your turbo control actuator actuates earlier to compensate for the fast rev of a first gear WOT pull. If you have issues with your pressure or vacuum chambers, check valves, or solenoids, then you might not be getting full boost in first. As well as experiencing a slow transition in other gears. Do you have a boost gauge?