1993 TT Hold Light Flashing HELP!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cali
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1993 TT Hold Light Flashing HELP!
I have a 93 twin turbo that i just bought, it was sitting for 2yrs. Made it start and engine is good, now car had most of main fuses out, i replaced them and the car started. Now i have the Check Engine ligh on along with the HOLD light flashing, it will not turn off pushin the overdirve botton, th car drives fine but does not shift to gears right, you have to full throutle the car to not feel the gear changes, I took it to a mechanic and just Jacked my money, any one might know what it is? I read some articles that if light flashes while driving is my ECU, is it true? Also if anyone is intrested i am going to sell for $7000> if intrested email almedd@att.net.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cali
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
can i do them myself or so i still need to take it somewhere where they do them? i always worked on hondas and i am not sure if there is a way where i can jump the od reader and have the dash tell me by the #s of blinks...
#7
Constant threat
As others have said, clear the codes by pulling the negative battery cable, then depress the brake pedal several times. It is very easy to check the codes by grounding teh 'ten' pin and turning the ignition switch to 'on'. Watch the number of short and long flashes, check against the codes posted.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
follow the steps above first. what are your mod's?. what ecu are you running?. if you have a pfc installed with the auto trans the hold ligt will stay on. we need more info on the car. check with the person who sold the car to you and give us the cars history.
Jeff
Jeff
#9
What's your point ?
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Gainesville, Fla.
Posts: 3,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Could be wrong here but IIRC the hold light is like the CEL for the automatic trans ecu. The hold button if working properly when pushed it will remain in what ever gear you have selected.....no matter what. You put it in drive it takes off in drive, not first second or OD put it in first that's it....first no matter what. Perhaps the way it's shifting is an indication of part of the problem.
#10
Irregular Here
iTrader: (14)
^^^ The tranny computer will go into a limp mode of sorts if there is a tranny error - EVEN if its an error that doesn't trigger the flashing hold light.
Reset the computer and see what happens.
Ive been through this - the tranny won't downshift and the torque converter won't lock up and you end up with squishy shifts when you manually shift with the button depressed.
Reset the computer and see what happens.
Ive been through this - the tranny won't downshift and the torque converter won't lock up and you end up with squishy shifts when you manually shift with the button depressed.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cali
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok guys, the check engine light its gone, it was my egr valve. Now the Hold light still flashes. I did rest ecu (stock auto), the car drives but it will not downshift, when I drive it hard shift in every gear, it actually shifts til it hit 5k rpms, the car its completly stock.
#12
Irregular Here
iTrader: (14)
Check the FSM (available online) in the section for the automatic transmission. It will tell you where to jumper the pins in the diagnostic port to activate the self check feature of the transmission computer. It causes the hold light to blink the codes similar to the way the check engine light blinks for the ecu.
Also, you are not using a manual transmission ecu correct? Just checking.
I can also look later if you need for the pins you need to jumper (I have the FSM).
Check your codes in the FSM and see whats up.
For what its worth, when you reset the ecu and transmission computer, you left the negative battery cable disconnected for the full 20 seconds and then pressed the brakes to clear the computers? I had all kinds of problems when I didn't leave the battery cable off long enough... the ecu reset but for some reason the tranny computer takes the full 20 seconds. When I reset them again correctly (after stressing for a while) - the tranny ran fine.
Oh yeah - ONE more thing... if you leave the jumper in the diagnostic port it seems to put the tranny right back into fault. After you reset the computers, remove the jumper from the diagnostic port BEFORE you start the car. If you are going to check the codes again to see if they are cleared do it by turning the key on with the jumper in but not starting the car.
ALSO a bad ecu (even if it is an Auto ecu) can run the engine fine but still cause the auto tranny computer to fault. If you can and have a spare, change the ecu to a known good one.
Also, you are not using a manual transmission ecu correct? Just checking.
I can also look later if you need for the pins you need to jumper (I have the FSM).
Check your codes in the FSM and see whats up.
For what its worth, when you reset the ecu and transmission computer, you left the negative battery cable disconnected for the full 20 seconds and then pressed the brakes to clear the computers? I had all kinds of problems when I didn't leave the battery cable off long enough... the ecu reset but for some reason the tranny computer takes the full 20 seconds. When I reset them again correctly (after stressing for a while) - the tranny ran fine.
Oh yeah - ONE more thing... if you leave the jumper in the diagnostic port it seems to put the tranny right back into fault. After you reset the computers, remove the jumper from the diagnostic port BEFORE you start the car. If you are going to check the codes again to see if they are cleared do it by turning the key on with the jumper in but not starting the car.
ALSO a bad ecu (even if it is an Auto ecu) can run the engine fine but still cause the auto tranny computer to fault. If you can and have a spare, change the ecu to a known good one.
#13
watashi no shichi
iTrader: (4)
Check the FSM (available online) in the section for the automatic transmission. It will tell you where to jumper the pins in the diagnostic port to activate the self check feature of the transmission computer. It causes the hold light to blink the codes similar to the way the check engine light blinks for the ecu.
Also, you are not using a manual transmission ecu correct? Just checking.
I can also look later if you need for the pins you need to jumper (I have the FSM).
Check your codes in the FSM and see whats up.
For what its worth, when you reset the ecu and transmission computer, you left the negative battery cable disconnected for the full 20 seconds and then pressed the brakes to clear the computers? I had all kinds of problems when I didn't leave the battery cable off long enough... the ecu reset but for some reason the tranny computer takes the full 20 seconds. When I reset them again correctly (after stressing for a while) - the tranny ran fine.
Oh yeah - ONE more thing... if you leave the jumper in the diagnostic port it seems to put the tranny right back into fault. After you reset the computers, remove the jumper from the diagnostic port BEFORE you start the car. If you are going to check the codes again to see if they are cleared do it by turning the key on with the jumper in but not starting the car.
ALSO a bad ecu (even if it is an Auto ecu) can run the engine fine but still cause the auto tranny computer to fault. If you can and have a spare, change the ecu to a known good one.
Also, you are not using a manual transmission ecu correct? Just checking.
I can also look later if you need for the pins you need to jumper (I have the FSM).
Check your codes in the FSM and see whats up.
For what its worth, when you reset the ecu and transmission computer, you left the negative battery cable disconnected for the full 20 seconds and then pressed the brakes to clear the computers? I had all kinds of problems when I didn't leave the battery cable off long enough... the ecu reset but for some reason the tranny computer takes the full 20 seconds. When I reset them again correctly (after stressing for a while) - the tranny ran fine.
Oh yeah - ONE more thing... if you leave the jumper in the diagnostic port it seems to put the tranny right back into fault. After you reset the computers, remove the jumper from the diagnostic port BEFORE you start the car. If you are going to check the codes again to see if they are cleared do it by turning the key on with the jumper in but not starting the car.
ALSO a bad ecu (even if it is an Auto ecu) can run the engine fine but still cause the auto tranny computer to fault. If you can and have a spare, change the ecu to a known good one.
I'd like to know what an Auto-ECU is.. I'm sitting here with binary image dumps from both ECU's and they're the exact same. Auto ECU .vs Manual ECU? binary images are the same from both ECU's. Of course this is coming from the 28pin chip on board.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
David Hayes
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
13
09-05-22 12:45 PM