1993 Mazda Rx7 20,614 Original Miles
#51
White chicks > *
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^^agreed
im non sequential however its still a PITA to get beaten off the line by normal cars driven by grandma's cause your car is pratically n/a from idle to about 4500rpm..
i mean all the time, i mean ALLLLL the time ill be at a red light with cars next to me, behind me etc and when the light turns green i go, rev up to 3000rpm in 1st gear, switch to 2nd and i look in the rearview and the dude behind me is RIGHT on my ***!! i hate when that happens..sometimes i have to boost 1st gear and sometimes second to get away from people like that..i understand where that guy comes from, he sees a sports car and he thinks ill be quick leaving the light but he has no idea of what i have so the n/a short shifting kinda annoys him...LOL
thats my negative feedback on non seq
im non sequential however its still a PITA to get beaten off the line by normal cars driven by grandma's cause your car is pratically n/a from idle to about 4500rpm..
i mean all the time, i mean ALLLLL the time ill be at a red light with cars next to me, behind me etc and when the light turns green i go, rev up to 3000rpm in 1st gear, switch to 2nd and i look in the rearview and the dude behind me is RIGHT on my ***!! i hate when that happens..sometimes i have to boost 1st gear and sometimes second to get away from people like that..i understand where that guy comes from, he sees a sports car and he thinks ill be quick leaving the light but he has no idea of what i have so the n/a short shifting kinda annoys him...LOL
thats my negative feedback on non seq
#52
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by SlingShotRX7
Unless you a lil GIRLIE man that races and do pulls from IDLE, and drive like a lil fairy
just to cry about lag.. Then Why not just keep the car stock??
just to cry about lag.. Then Why not just keep the car stock??
I agree with PVerdieck. Non-seq is for people who can't troubleshoot their turbos (in most cases).
#53
omgwtfposlol
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to cut to the chase, the problem with boost spiking/creeping (any type of boosting past stock boost) on an FD is that the stock ecu simply is not mapped for any more boost, so it can't add more fuel...
you will probably creep with a full exhaust, so you'll need the wg ported, and the ECU tuned. 320rwhp is very doable on the stock twins, but you'll need the ecu (which you conveniantly already have ordered) and tuning. probably a fuel pump and an IC, since the stock IC is really bad.
congrats on your new purchase.
you will probably creep with a full exhaust, so you'll need the wg ported, and the ECU tuned. 320rwhp is very doable on the stock twins, but you'll need the ecu (which you conveniantly already have ordered) and tuning. probably a fuel pump and an IC, since the stock IC is really bad.
congrats on your new purchase.
#55
addicted to lounge
I just dropped my car off with jodeny for tuning...he told me about someone who fits your description that he's doing some work for. Really good choice. For 320 I would do all the bolt-ons and run 12 lbs of boost. Definitely keep the twins sequential.
intake (I'd do hard ebay pipes with K&N fliters and damian heat shield)
dp, mp, cb, greddy pullies and get rid of the air pump, a nice IC (I liked the m2 medium a lot), koyo or fluidyne radiator (I'd go with the koyo), power fc, and a good fuel pump. I'd also do a full tune up and have the car tuned. i think that should be well within your budget and easily do 320 to the wheels. Keep an eye on the injector duties but I'm pretty sure the stockers should be fine at that power level.
I forgot you'll also need a boost controller to set it and keep it at 12 lbs. Personally after my experiences I would go with an inexpensive manual BC. They're simpler and work just as well. Not to mention a fraction of the cost.
intake (I'd do hard ebay pipes with K&N fliters and damian heat shield)
dp, mp, cb, greddy pullies and get rid of the air pump, a nice IC (I liked the m2 medium a lot), koyo or fluidyne radiator (I'd go with the koyo), power fc, and a good fuel pump. I'd also do a full tune up and have the car tuned. i think that should be well within your budget and easily do 320 to the wheels. Keep an eye on the injector duties but I'm pretty sure the stockers should be fine at that power level.
I forgot you'll also need a boost controller to set it and keep it at 12 lbs. Personally after my experiences I would go with an inexpensive manual BC. They're simpler and work just as well. Not to mention a fraction of the cost.
Last edited by widebody2; 02-20-05 at 08:26 PM.
#56
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Originally Posted by widebody2
I forgot you'll also need a boost controller to set it and keep it at 12 lbs. Personally after my experiences I would go with an inexpensive manual BC. They're simpler and work just as well. Not to mention a fraction of the cost.
Manual controllers have a tendency to spike...which will cause detonation...might as well spend the money and do it right. The gredy profec b spec 2 is getting cheap. I just picked one up for 175 dollars and it has never been used. Plus you can adjust your boost with the push of a button.
#57
addicted to lounge
Never heard that one before...They are a little less convenient...I'll give you that. What I have heard of is people messing around with their electronic BC while trying to get it dialed in and blowing up their engines.
#58
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by steve0178
Manual controllers have a tendency to spike...which will cause detonation...might as well spend the money and do it right. The gredy profec b spec 2 is getting cheap. I just picked one up for 175 dollars and it has never been used. Plus you can adjust your boost with the push of a button.
#60
Indifferent
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Manual boost controllers are fine. So is the power FC once you get the orifice size correct. It really depends on what your looking for. Personally I use an adjustable orifice in the wastegate hose and then the Power FC for boost control. It works flawlessly.
John
John
Last edited by Jodeny; 02-20-05 at 09:17 PM. Reason: I cant type
#61
I live in a Museum
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Originally Posted by steve0178
Manual controllers have a tendency to spike...which will cause detonation...might as well spend the money and do it right. The gredy profec b spec 2 is getting cheap. I just picked one up for 175 dollars and it has never been used. Plus you can adjust your boost with the push of a button.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...bad+controller
^ As an example.
EDIT* I guess it's more of just getting lucky with preference.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/will-rx-7s-appreciate-deappreciate-389019/page5/
Last edited by iluvmy3rdgen; 02-20-05 at 09:46 PM.
#62
13B Rotary Turbo
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FAQ is FRIEND https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
as everyone has said..welcome to the site..good luck to you and your practically new FD.
you have a lot of reading to do
as everyone has said..welcome to the site..good luck to you and your practically new FD.
you have a lot of reading to do
#63
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Yeah, when i started, i had a whole lot of reading to do from scudini's site, to rob robinette's site, to how the rotary engines work, you definitely are in for a lot of work.
And btw im located in the iselin, nj area, so if you have any questions, or need help, just let me know! always glad to help.
If you prefer staying ssq, try running bnr III's i hear they are pretty good/reliable turbos too.
And btw im located in the iselin, nj area, so if you have any questions, or need help, just let me know! always glad to help.
If you prefer staying ssq, try running bnr III's i hear they are pretty good/reliable turbos too.
#67
BOYCOTT EXXON MOBIL!!!
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Originally Posted by ulost2my7
congrats on the purchase
umm there is a shop in north jersey called acosta..they are pretty good, i gone there a couple of times but they never tuned my car..they have a 900hp rx8 so that should explain it all..
umm there is a shop in north jersey called acosta..they are pretty good, i gone there a couple of times but they never tuned my car..they have a 900hp rx8 so that should explain it all..
ulost2my7, Forgot to mention that its a 3rotor "900hp" 20b.... Not the same motor in your car, which is a 2rotor 13b..... So don't get any ideas!
Last edited by RX7UP; 02-21-05 at 10:55 PM.
#68
Full Member
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you need good rotary shop near by your location. untill you know what you are doing on your 7. Jr's rotary shop(call him ITO, real name is Juan) in Paterson n.j. he has really good price on labor and great work on 7. one time, my front engine cover gasket was broke guess what oil everywhere. i called three different major rotary shop they quote me over $900+ for part and labor but ito charged me only $250 or $350. its been while ago..... i dont go there anymore cuz i work my self on my 7 now. untill you know about 7 any problem give him call 973-904-1613.
good luck!!
good luck!!
#69
White chicks > *
iTrader: (33)
Originally Posted by RX7UP
Congratulations on the FD......Welcome to the wonderful world of the Rotary!
ulost2my7, Forgot to mention that its a 3rotor "900hp" 20b.... Not the same motor in your car, which is a 2rotor 13b..... So don't get any ideas!
ulost2my7, Forgot to mention that its a 3rotor "900hp" 20b.... Not the same motor in your car, which is a 2rotor 13b..... So don't get any ideas!
o how i wish someday i would pop the hood and see a 20b in my car
but looks like it will never happen soon lol
#71
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Such horrible advice...
Originally Posted by SlingShotRX7
DUDE..
and BTW.. Make your TURBOS NON Sequential.. You can do the poor man non sequential
and its nothning more than switching the PFC and switching some solenoids..
and BTW.. Make your TURBOS NON Sequential.. You can do the poor man non sequential
and its nothning more than switching the PFC and switching some solenoids..
#73
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Originally Posted by Dan H
If you sold your M5 only because of electrical problems, you are in for a treat with the FD.
Dan,
Now that is funny and so so true !
#75
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Originally Posted by TAMAatWork
Blah blah blah, who cares about all this nonsense. Let's just see some pics. Use some of that 5k to buy a digital camera.
-Joseph
-Joseph
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