EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

I have a complicated electrical problem on my hands and am in need of some assistance. I have been through 3 15A fuses today and I think I am narrowing the problem down, so any extra help might me meet two ends together more quickly.

My symptoms:
After 20 minutes of night-time driving I will lose the coolant temp and oil press. gauges and the functionality of my e-fans.
After 5 minutes of daytime driving I will lose the same gauges and e-fans.
Tach, speedometer, trip odometer and odometer, parking brake indicator, check engine light and ABS light are all functional until car is turned off and restarted (at which point they will not light up and/or display)


I disconnected the 60A fuse in the engine bay labeled "Cooling Fan" and took the car for a test (while hawk-eyeing the temp. gauge!) and after 20 minutes of daytime driving it didn't blow the fuse.

Is it possible that when the e-fans are sent into medium or high speed modes, the motors from the fans are drawing too much current and are blowing the fuse?

Thanks in advance.

bryant

no it has to be a short.
if the fuse is the correct size then it should not blow unless somethings wrong.

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

Hah, this sucks but is a relief at the same time. I just inspected all the harnesses near the passenger side headlight that go to the cooling fan relays.

One of them is completely melted inside and out and one of the copper pins inside the harness was missing. After disconnecting this harness I went and turned on my AC to the 1st setting and made sure the e-fan will still turn on before taking a test drive. I drove for a good 45 minutes or so and nothing has fried! Yet...

Like I said this is good news and bad news, I would hate to hard wire these 4 wires together and would like to put a new male and female harness in, but I have literally no experience with doing so. Any tips and tricks on getting a good solid connection?

bryant

i think you need to download the 94_body_elctrical_manual.

heres the link
http://www.wrex-racing.com/html/fd/9...ric_manual.zip

bryant

sorry a little late with that.

i would find a shop??

or splice, saughter and shrink wrap

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

To do a little cutting and then splicing into a new connector? I'd rather do this here in the driveway and keep my money

I was just wondering if theres a good way to securely install new connectors since there's no way to "crimp" wires into a plastic wiring harness.

bryant

take a picture show us what your talking about?
if its a plug-in that not good.

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

bryant

junkyard is your best bet.
just called mazda and the guy didnt seem to find just the connector he only found the hole harness!!!

you need someone electricly incline to make you a plug-in.
my wifes uncle can do it but i live in alabama.

sbnrx7

iTrader: (4)

If you have the time, patients, and a steady hand, all of these wiring harness connectors can be taken apart. Once apart, carefully uncrimp the bad wire from the contact pin or blade, and replace. Just for good measure, I always solder this connection. In many cases the crimping flange on a copper or aluminum connector will break as you try to open it to release the "bad" wire. Don't build up a big glob of solder at the connection as you still have to re-insert the pin or blade bach into the harness connector.

EricRyan

iTrader: (4)

Awesome, luckily I live next to an electrician friend of mine and he will be helping me with this.