just bought this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

says his car hits 14.5 psi plus boost (290 hp) on a hot humid day and 16.5 psi (over 310 hp) boost on a cool night, with no mods to the wastegate and no boost controller, is the car capable of spiking this much boost with just a cold air box, midpipe, and farrell catback or is it posibble that his boost gauge is messed up (pettit racing boostgauge), he said to get this much boost you have to hit it just when the first turbo is prespooled, not even sure if i understand this

thanks,

chris

 

Yes, it's possible with those modifications and if it's accurate, you'll be lucky if the engine is still good...

 

There is no mention of a fuel computer, etc. If you are on the stock ECU, you are in danger of fuel cut or, worse, detonation from running lean and blowing an apex seal at these boost levels.

His BS about lube does NOT allow you to run such high boost levels. Search the stickies for tips on keeping your car alive.

With a mid-pipe the wastegate needs to be ported, or you WILL have boost creep (which accounts for the high boost). A boost controller alone will not control it.

At the minimum, get a boost controller and an aftermarket ECU so you don't blow it up. AND learn about your car so you don't become one of the "my engine just blew" posts!

 

will putting back the stock cat bring me back to stock boost levels? ill be gettign this along with the car. so basically a stock car with just the k&n cold air box

 

maybe. . . just remember that with that much boost. . . and the fact that hes selling the car. . . you may be in the market for a new engine by the time you GET it. have him do a compression check before you get it. if he wont . . . dont get it.

 

where in NJ are you at? I can come help you out with these problems.

 

You can test the boost gauge itself with a MityVac on the hose where it connects to the engine, but those boost numbers certainly are possible with those mods. (Not so sure about the horsepower claims.)

The engine is in danger whatever the gauge says.

 

obviously the engine would have to be warm correct just like a piston engine, also since ive actually never seen the way the plugs are set, i what remove all the plus form one rotor (2 of them) and remove 1 plug from the rotor im checking and crank, the do it vice versa for the other rotor? is this done wide open or closed throttle and should i be looking for a certain value for the first puff. also what values am i looking for

thanks

chris

 

I get 14 psi--easily--with (stock) non sequential turbos and an open exhaust, with stock ECU and aftermarket intake. Yeah, it's a time bomb. You ought to put some restrictions in the exhaust (like a cat and/or smaller diameter exhaust) to *help* keep boost down. If you have a tunable aftermarket ECU, you can tune it such that you don't have to remove/add stuff (and you'll probably make more power too). There's a lot of info here on how to do these things. Good luck!