Danner

Just wondering what 11k can get me as far as reliability and low miles.(3rd Gen) Preferably an R1. But will settle for touring. Just wondering what 11k can get me.

Thanks, dan

diablone

iTrader: (2)

Keep saving.

EVS.TurboTuner

I don't think it will get you a good reliable RX7, you can get lucky and get one with a very good body and interior and maybe you just need a engine replacement sooner or later. Just my imo and from researching.

From what I've learned, you may spend that $11k and get an RX7, but will you have $5k for backup in case the engine goes out? I'm assuming for $11k the RX7 you will mostly likely be buying will have high miles.

spoolin93r1

i got my R1 for $10,900. the guy told me it had a newer motor, new clutch, and new turbos. 2 weeks after i bought it, i blew a secondary turbo after getting them to function normally, the clutch started slipping, and then my motor went. after crawling under it, i noticed junkyard markings on the motor and tranny. remember, ya usually get what you pay for. definately take someone that knows a little about these cars with you when you check them out. don't be afraid to get dirty and crawl under the car to check stuff out

TracyRX7

11k will buy you a really nice 2nd gen. You're looking at 15-20k for a good condition 3rd gen. If the price is lower than that the deal is probably 'too good to be true'. If the previous owner doesn't have receipts for replacement/rebuild of a part assume it hasn't been done and that part will be breaking soon. They should also have oil change receipts every 3000 miles, not every 5000-8000 like you can get away with on other cars (again if they don't have them assume it wasn't done).

As others have stated you'll want to either 1) have another car to drive for when the FD breaks and you can't afford to fix it, or 2) have $5k or so laying around so you can afford to fix it, or 3) spend $2500 or so and get an extended warrenty (but you'll then have to keep it stock and service/replace all parts with OEM parts) and have $500 around for deductables.

Sprockett

$11,000 may buy you a good stock to lightly modified FD with a little high mileage. For a single turbo FD, I think the price is around $16000-$19000 for really nice ones and $19,000+ for rare editions (CYM R1s) or for exceptional cars. However, if you only have $11,000, please remember that it takes a lot to keep these cars running. I wouldn't buy another FD unless I had at least $5000 disposable cash to repair problems that WILL come along.

A good TII costs around $5000 I believe (doesn't it?)

xstacy7

I got mine for $10,500 with 86k on the clock. Interior is about a 9 out of 10 (still smells new). Coolant seals were the only issue and I got about 5,000 miles on her before it started seriously burning coolant. Turbo's were also an issue, seemed as if the precat clogged causing MAJOR heat on the housing and cracked it big time. All in all though, it's a beautiful car. Not to mention it was a demo or anything

FormerPorscheGuy

Hell No.

bloodninja

I have the same story as some of these guys. Spent $11k
on a 93 R1 and it turned out junkier than I thought. Engine
has been rebuilt (though I have no idea how well) but I
need new turbos, worn ujoints, noisy suspension, bad
paint, a lot of door dings that I keep noticing, terrible
interior, and more than a few ghetto fixes and other
undesirable traits.

My fault though. Take everyone's advice on this one and
don't bargain hunt for an FD. Well, you can actually find
excellent examples, many nicely modified, in the $17-20k
range, and that is a bargain. An $11k car will likely be a
pain in your ***.

I got impatient and regret it.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I agree with that.

MrRx

iTrader: (1)

I paided around 14K for my FD, New motor, Granted the interior needed some work.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

$11K is good enough for a down payment.

Get a loan for $5K more and you can pick up something decent. Another $3K-4K for a low mileage, pristine car.

B_Rock

i paid 18k for mine, still on twins, but you get what you pay for. my first MAJOR problem in almost a year was me stock torsen diff going, and we just fixed it.

kamaal27

this is true but i guess luck plays a crucial role too...u could be an unlucky son of biaaach and spend hella money on a FD and still get fucked over..i think getting a car checked out is very very important..also see how old the seller is, if he is a teenager then you know damn well that engine aint gonna last you a week. lol..damn racers..

Fatman0203

Same, each day a new piece of my interior falls because he must have taken it all apart to do the speakers and but it back together horribly. Yet w/e, motor is good and needs suspension. The entrior is great and clean especially in my room

ProjectRxSeven

You can't really tell how the previous guy took care of the 7. Although I think 11 K is kind of low for an FD maybe the person just wants to unfortunately sell the car. If I was you and was going to spend 11k on the car, I'd make sure it had a nice interior, decent paint, good condition and I'd have about 5 grand in reserve to rebuild the motor and maybe do something else under the hood.
The original motor (if it is original) probably in all reality won't last too much longer. I think something to factor in is even low miles and age alone will have a similar effect on the seals? Is it not true that If you have a car sitting over a long period of time VS driven the age of the seals would still be a variable?

If you know maybe you can clear it up for me. I'm not sure.

Flipn

for 11k I got a car w/ 3mm apex seals and a streetported engine that only had 18k miles on it..the car had full exhuast and intake also.. It just needed an ECU

xstacy7

The first 7 I got for $9,000. The engine had oil/coolant/boost leaks, low compression, interior was falling all apart, and the frame had been tweaked in a wreck. A/c didn't work, P/S had a leak, cruise control didn't work. It wasn't worth the $9k, should've got it for $3k. I had to come back and put a Pettit Streetported engine in it, new wheels, full 3" back, koyo and a bunchhhh of random OEM parts. It was a nice car after I got done with it though, but still from the beginning it was a rip

DeaconFrost

You could always buy mine. with a rebuild and the current tune by steve Kan, it will put down ~350 rwhp. I put down 322.6 @ 14 psi on a weak motor about a month ago. LINK