MySilverRX7

Hi,
A place called Revolution Rotary in Idaho says they can rebuild my engine for $1750 and remove reinstall for $600, for a total of $2350.
They tell me that most likely i will be able to keep my rotor housing. However, my car has 94kmi and i think its time to change the rotor housings, no? I know it all depends on the condition of my blown motor but i'm afraid that there cost is low because they dont change the rotor housings. Anyone ever heard of this place? Apparently they have 30 years of rotary engine experience. What do you guys think? Should i get my engine rebuilt there because it sure is a kick *** price.

mazdaspeed00

iTrader: (6)

i think the general concensus on this board is that your better off getting new rotor housings. many members on the board seem to think that spending the extra money on new housings will increase your engine's longetivity. i seem to think so as well.

vudoodoodoo

A remove, rebuild and reinstall for $2400 is a good price I think. Most places I go to would charge $1500 for the remove and reinstall.
Most people here will say that you should go w/ a good rebuild than a reman engine. It all depends on where you go. Ask around a see if Revolution Rotary is a good shop.
As for the rotor housings, they are supposed to check the housings and measure them and stuff. If the housings are still within spec, you don't need new ones.
Why do you need a rebuild anyways?

MySilverRX7

The apex seals on the rear rotor is shot. I've also had coolant problems in the past.
Yes, $2400 for a complete rebuild, remove reinstall really seems like a good price.
Reason why i ask is because it would suck if they just reuse my rotor housings when it is not within spec. There is really no way of me finding out if they did that or not. I heard pineapple racing do rebuilds for $2000, price includes brand new rotor housings if needed.

MySilverRX7

decisions decisions.. i dont know what i need to do. It would be nice to save money by going to Revolution Rotary but i sure as hell dont wanna get screwed over later.

rotorbrain

just disassemble it yourself. . . check the housings. . . and bring the engine (dissassembled) and the car up there and tell them what you want to do.

problem solved?

paul

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I replied to your post in the NW section. Not trying to hassle you. Do a seach on my name, and engine rebuild threads. I've got some prices listed on parts that will need to be replace while doing the motor.

Motor rebuild
Labor
Parts (other than engine block rebuild)

So the motor and labor they've quoted $2450. What about the parts? Figure at least $700 more for "parts". If you were concerned about doing it right that $700 will go up to $1200-2000.

So your total is more in the $3-$4K range.

Do the search and you'll find some good info.

Jeff

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Jeff is right...Also they are assuming you can reuse your old rotor housings..I would count on at least one of them being bad.

RonKMiller

No way, not gonna happen, impossible.

You get what you pay for, and the parts alone for a quality rebuild will run that much any day.

I am going to guess your FINAL bill will be double that.
They may be the best engine rebuilder in the world but without replacing critical components (and having you pay for the parts along the way) there is no way that they can do it for that price.

Not sure what you mean when you say the seals on the rear rotor are shot, but if they are cracked the odds are high that the housing is completely toast.

smerkinseven

why don't you just pay them the $600 to remove and install the engine. when they pull it.. send it over to pineapple to have everything done... then just have the guys install it... just my .02

fdracer

even if you did reuse your rotor housings that price is still too cheap. gaskets and seals alone cost about $1500 from the dealer.

patriick

iTrader: (3)

Give Adam at RX-7 Specialties a call (403)246-6980. He'll rebuild your engine for $1825 + shipping (no tax and no duty). 1 year warranty. You can have your local shop do the R&R.

They built me an engine that should arrive any day now. I'm doing the R&R myself to save $$.

Trexthe3rd

Please don't misinform fellow forum members, if you do not know what you are talking about. The full master rebuild kit including all seals, bearings etc. can be purchased at a RETAIL price of less than $900.00 (see Rebuild kits . The price would be probably cheaper for a shop). With re-usable housing and rotor it would be 1500 dollars for the labor of rebuild and R&R, how is this impossible?
There maybe additional costs (ie. new or acceptable used rotor housing and/or rotors <highly unlikely for the rotors>) but that has to be clearly stated ahead of time.
If you paid $2400.00 for the parts needed for a rebuild. I have a bridge in London I like to sell you.

RonKMiller

OK Mr. Rocket Scientist, let me give you the straight poop:

I am an FAA Certified Airframe and Powerplant Specialist by profession. That means when you tear the wings off your jet, explode the engine, or generally **** it up you come to me and tell me your woes. I assign Certified Repairmen to individual jobs to put it all back together. Once they have done their job I inspect it, make sure it is put back together properly, and then send you on your merry way. I sign the paperwork that says it is airworthy again and allowed to carry paying passengers. I've spent 23 years doing this and I have not had one of my birds go down from a repair that was accomplished on my watch. Oh yeah, I also have both a US and UK Commercial Pilots License and over 6,000 hours in the air without breaking a fingernail.

I've rebuilt and modified more airplane, car and motorcycle engines than I can remember, and to date, three rotaries. I've also built two airplanes from plans and fabricated 95% of the components from raw materials. How many have you done??

But I digress.

Have you ever wondered why everyone always grenades their "rebuilt" engines on this forum at about 12,000 miles? It's because they put in the very MIMIMAL amount of parts neccessary to get it working again. Besides the basic seals kits there are
ALWAYS other issues to address and they ALWAYS shoot the price right through the roof.

Being the ignoramous that you are, you probably can't understand that things like oil pumps, chains, water pumps, coolant hoses, rotor bearings, belts, flywheels, senders, vacuum hoses and about 100 other parts that are not included in a base rebuild are very important to a solid engine. You also forgot about the engine install kit.

You don't know **** from shinola junior.

Go check out all the shops that know what they are doing like KD Rotary, Mazdatrix, Pineapple, etc. See what their prices are for the full job.

By the way, how are the sales of your new and improved belly pan going? Very nice work there.

rotorbrain

hey trexthe3rd, rotor bearings werent listed in the master kit. a rotor bearing is one of those user disgretion things. if you think its okay (make sure its in spec) then go ahead and use it. the safest way is obviously to replace everything.

paul

Trexthe3rd

Paul, I was talking about the Torrington bearings (or needle bearings). Not rotor bearings. The parts in the kits are all the recommended replacement parts from the service manual.

RKM
There is no question that one should try to make an engine as reliable as possible when rebuilding. Hell, if a bullet proof car is what you are after (if there is such a thing) then why not replace all your wiring harness (which I did during my rebuild), clutch, ecu, alternator, and whatever else you can put your hands on? The problem I have with your statements as always is, you exagerate and give opions as facts without any thought process.
The original post asked for an opinion, did it mention anything about the cost of replacing anything else? No, so why would it be IMPOSSIBLE if he chooses to do the basic rebuild? If it is your opion that other items need to be replaced for safety reasons then just mention them and remind them of the consequences. Let them find out from the rotory shop what is and what is not covered under the price.
On a side note, why is it that you feel it's necessary to list your resume everytime someone disagree with you? Who cares how many planes you watch other people take apart?

And also, try to refrain from the personal attacks you claim you don't do.

And yes, 3 have been sold and are being tested by the people who bought them.

jeff48

Old Farts with both professional and life experience rule!!!!

Kudos Ron!




[QUOTE]Originally posted by RonKMiller


OK Mr. Rocket Scientist, let me give you the straight poop:

I am an FAA Certified Airframe and Powerplant Specialist by profession. That means when you tear the wings off your jet, explode the engine, or generally **** it up you come to me and tell me your woes. I assign Certified Repairmen to individual jobs to put it all back together. Once they have done their job I inspect it, make sure it is put back together properly, and then send you on your merry way. I sign the paperwork that says it is airworthy again and allowed to carry paying passengers. I've spent 23 years doing this and I have not had one of my birds go down from a repair that was accomplished on my watch. Oh yeah, I also have both a US and UK Commercial Pilots License and over 6,000 hours in the air without breaking a fingernail.

I've rebuilt and modified more airplane, car and motorcycle engines than I can remember, and to date, three rotaries. I've also built two airplanes from plans and fabricated 95% of the components from raw materials. How many have you done??

But I digress.

Have you ever wondered why everyone always grenades their "rebuilt" engines on this forum at about 12,000 miles? It's because they put in the very MIMIMAL amount of parts neccessary to get it working again. Besides the basic seals kits there are
ALWAYS other issues to address and they ALWAYS shoot the price right through the roof.

Being the ignoramous that you are, you probably can't understand that things like oil pumps, chains, water pumps, coolant hoses, rotor bearings, belts, flywheels, senders, vacuum hoses and about 100 other parts that are not included in a base rebuild are very important to a solid engine. You also forgot about the engine install kit.

You don't know **** from shinola junior.

Go check out all the shops that know what they are doing like KD Rotary, Mazdatrix, Pineapple, etc. See what their prices are for the full job.

By the way, how are the sales of your new and improved belly pan going? Very nice work there.

[QUOTE]

redrotorR1

I'm of the belief that it you're going to replace something, do it right the first time. And I also believe that you get what you pay for. I've learned this lesson multiple times with my turbos. IMO, the engine is one place you don't want to scrimp on the details.

On another note, I have a Mazda reman engine ... going strong still after 30K miles. There have been problems associated with them before, and rumor was that there was a labor dispute that resulted in some poorly remanufactured engines. I don't know how much truth there was in that, but I believe Mazda reman's come with a 1-year warranty. So, I wouldn't rule out going with a reman just yet.

RonKMiller

Look dood, I don't like you. You don't like me. Why don't we both just recognize this FACT and get on with our lives and ignore each other? It is a new year and we both have much more important issues to deal with than flaming each other on a continual basis.

You are obviously a very bright guy and are probably very talented at what you do for a living. Just PLEASE don't try to trump me in the mechanical arena. BTDT.

That's my story and I'm sticking with it. Happy New Year, and good riddance......(j/k) Really.

Well not really........

Seriously man, we both drive FD3S's - the best damn sports car ever invented. We're brothers. Just goes to show you how smart we BOTH are.

PhatManBUD

i think in competition, you should both come to my house, and rebuild my engine and i will drive it and who ever's rebuild blows first, loses. simple as that

Trexthe3rd

I have absolutely nothing against you. I only have a problem with people making rude comments on subjects unfamiliar or unproven.
I do not make rude comments on any of your "ghetto mod" threads, or any others for that matter, because I know nothing of your work or what you have done to prove or disprove the mod.
People on this forum experiment with many things with the intention of improving a great car. Whether it works or not, real life testing will tell the tale, not your conjecture. I object to the way you talk down to people, that does not mean I'm trying to trump you mechanically, you should know the difference.
As you stated your self, you blow off ideas without any knowledge or evidance to back it up, and now you have to eat your own words. How many torque brace makers/inventors did you have to put down before you realized it works?
I will say it again, i have nothing against you, for all I know, you maybe the nicest person in the world. But what I don't like is how you put other people's ideas down simply because you don't "THINK" it works, and expect other people to accept your rude comments.
Make suggestions, be constructive, thats how ideas get better.
I have been on this forum longer than you have, and there is a reason why you are the only person I have an issue with. I do not push back if no one shoves.
On that note, hopefully you read through the post and understand what I am explaining. Happy New Year to you.