apneablue

Ok...This started out as a nice $125 DP install...then my Mech says..."oh ****, one of the studs on the turbos side of the DP is broken off in there" Had to remove the turbo manifold and drill out the stud....after replacing gaskets, all other studs, intake hosese (the accordian ones) and a few cracked hoses labour was $400, parts $325...(could get list but I am too lazy) then add $300 for a Pettit DP...I think I have the most expensive DP install there is...$1025 top that! not like I am proud of it or anything

THEN! I also have the defi link system gauges (boost, egt, water temp, and oil temp)...I did the mounting and installing of the gauges (see thread "Defi Gauges Installed") But I didn't want to drill and tap anything becuse I know I would *** it up...so I asked my trusty Mech and he did the EGT on the DP, then this is the interesting part..I asked him to drill and tap the Thermostat housing like on Robinett's site...but he seemed to think it would be better in the AST! he did it and it works great...readings are right on...When I am driving pretty hard boosting all the time for a good 10-15 minutes the temp is abotu 210°f So maybe this is an alternate mounting spot for the temp sensor...

BTW I dont want to drill and tap my drain plug...is any FD owner using the GReddy Oil Filter Block Adapter...some believe it will work...others don't...


What do you think about that?

apneablue

not only that...I was without my car for 9 days waiting on parts....Do you know what that will do to a man!

apneablue

oh yeah...and the o2 sensor was replaced too...he was gonna get the mazda one and I was like "for $185, *** no! go over to NAPA and pic one up!" if it wasn't for the forum I wouldn't have known this and said "OK" like a dumb ***...Thanks guys...this place rocks! Saving me money all up and down heaahhh!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

That makes for a real good reason to wait for M2's DP. There is another company that makes a studless install DP as well, but I can't post the name (it dissapears).

Did your Napa O2 sensor have a plug allready attached or just a bare wire?

When I asked 2 mechanix, I was told soldering the plug wire would throw off the O2 sensors readings. When I asked if the no name brand was just as good, they had no idea.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I'm sure other guys have had problems with studs breaking off in the turbos, I've been lucky so far and haven't had any problems.

Is your AST aluminum? If not it will break for sure once someone had drilled into it. Otherwise the AST isn't really a good location for a temp sensor IMHO.

apneablue

I guess that's a good question...because I don't know the O2 sensor wire config...hmmm...Guess I will ask him...Was kinda funny...I was driving around with good boost and then about 15 minutes later no boost...Mech forgot to tighten the intercooler hose...I feel all powerful and ****...I fixed something!

apneablue

No...I have the Pettit aluminum AST...otherwise I wouldn't drill that shitty plastic one...Good point though for anyone thinking of actually mounting their sensor in the stock AST...that would plain suk..

skunks

Why did you not do it yourself???

BTW: Did you agree ahead of time to pay that much for labor?

laujesse

iTrader: (19)

Studless down pipe install please explain...

If you put the ocasional space in the place it wont block it.

laujesse

iTrader: (19)

The labor sounds fair for that amount of BS with the install...

jspecracer7

I use it...it works fine...oil temps read about 10 degrees higher than water temp, and my oil pressure reads WAY more accurate than the stock one.

apneablue

I didn't do it myslef because I feard getting crushed by my car actually not really...I just wanted it done with no hassel cuz I have zero tools and zero time with work...seemed like the thing to do...However I am going to install my mipipe!

I agree, after all the crap they had to do with the drilling and tapping for the EGT and Water temp I figure 400's not so bad...

Also, the AST sensor mount for the water temp seems to be working out just fine...average driving it runs about 191°f and in stop and go trafic it goes up to 208-210°f...What do all the pros think about this location for the sensor? any coolant flow problems in this location?

apneablue

Did the stock air filter work for you or did you have to use that corrola filter they said to use?

apneablue

I meant oil filter

laujesse

iTrader: (19)

Studless downpipe install? Anyone? You need the studs unless there is a force field that hold it on. Maybe I am misinterpeting it?...?

apneablue

I think it must be a magnetic down pipe ...I have been trying to picture it too and really can't figure out how it would work

Brad

Okay, picture this! No studs, just bolts! The studs breaking and backing out gets old after awhile...especially when you have installed and removed two different downpipes 6 times!!! Don't ask...



9 days? 9 DAYS!?!?! BWAAAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!! I'm going on 9 months without my car dude...I think jimlab has been without his for three + YEARS!

Thanks though, I haven't laughed that hard in awhile

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

M2 and another company makes a DP that does not use the one stud. It still has bolts (not magnetic LOL). I have no idea if that's a problem (studs breaking) on the right had drive models.

M2 downpipe has been specifically engineered to allow for installation without requiring the removal of the turbo manifold studs. http://www.m2performance.com/

apneablue

9 Months? wow! :| what's wrong wid it?

Brad

Long story...one which is best told with a couple pitchers of beer. If I'm ever in Oklahoma you can hear it

jimlab

The last time I drove my RX-7 was May 17, 1998...

4 years and counting, but when (if) it ever runs again, whoooo-heeee!!! (Picture Chris Farley saying that in Billy Madison)

artowar2

I've got an M2 downpipe. I believe that what they mean is that if the studs stay in the turbo manifold and only the nuts come off, then you still have enough clearance to get the downpipe on the studs and put the nuts back on.

You can always use a bolt if one or more of the studs comes out, but it isn't *required*. If they wanted you to use bolts, then it would say that stud removal *is* required.

Rated R1

From what I understand Pettit and M2's downpipes are exactly the same. When I bought Pettit's downpipe they included 3 studs 3 nuts and a bolt to mount the DP. If you soak the nuts and studs with PB blaster the studs will usually come out with the nuts anyway.

I can't belive the mechanic broke the stud. Makes me wonder if he knows what he is doing.

apneablue

You got studs and bolts when you bought your pettit dp? I bouight mine from the www.rx7store.net and when I got it I asked? where are the gaskets and bolts and stuff...they say "if the originaly gaskets are not usable just use liquid qasket" I don't think that was right...

As for the Mech breaking the bolt, he didn't break it...he realized that it was broken off in there before he started...it was the top one towards the rear of the front of the car...Seems whoever was tampering with it before managed to cross thread the stud...So then that's where all the work came in...

Badog

I have the Greddy plate for temp and pressure.

Works great.

PM for me any questions. Best place to by is Horsepowerfreaks.