eslai

Hello all,

I just bought a 1993 Touring edition, Montego Blue, tan interior. It had 13,091 on the odometer. The car is in about as good condition as I've ever seen and still smells new inside. I drove it down from Northern California to San Diego this past weekend, so now it has like 13,700 on the clock. It drove like a brand new car the whole way.

Of course, first things first--it isn't getting any more miles on it until I replace the fuel pulsation damper and evaluate the vacuum hose situation. Probably worthwhile to change the sparks out and all that. AST, better radiator, yadda yadda. We'll see what the shop says.

The goal with this one is to do very little modification, aimed at preservation of classic car status rather than anything else. I'll drive the car less than 2000 miles per year on weekend trips and such.

I have a few questions that I'm hoping folks can answer for me, and I apologize--I've been scouring the forum, but it seems like I might need directed answers:

1. Is there a strategy for maintaining the stock leather seats? The ones in the car are in good condition, with a small wear/scratch on the driver side bolster and that's it. I want to keep it in original condition though and from what I've seen and heard, Mazda didn't exactly use the most awesome leather for the seats. Are there any good seat covers that aren't very thick? Previous owner had put sheepskin covers on, but they were too thick and made it feel like I was sitting ON the seat rather than in it. Is there any strategy for protecting the area where the seatbelt hoop is? Even with just 13,000 miles on the car, this area is blackened from the seatbelt rubbing against it. Tan interiors...what a pain.

2. The stereo is a bit wonky after 23 years. The CD player ate a CD from the last owner and now it doesn't respond. The tape deck's LED backlight is non-operational. Is there a company that restores these old head units? I'd really like to NOT get anything aftermarket in there. Surprisingly the Bose acoustic wave unit seems to be functioning 100%, but once in a while, there is some output to the speakers, front and rear, that is "odd", for lack of a better term.

3. The driver-side door has to be slammed to get it to close properly. I think the door latch might be faulty, and the door rings like a dull bell when I close it, so I think something is going on in there. Is this a common problem, and is there a solution?

4. On the inside of the interior driver side door pull, there is an oblong plug that seems to be missing--there is a hole underneath your fingers when you pull the door shut. Does anyone know if these plugs are available, or what they'd even be called?

Thanks for your time! I've been following the forums off and on for years now, but this is the first time I've posted in regards to one of my own!

eslai

Not that these photos tell you much, but I figure someone may ask:

diablone

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the purchase, looks great. To point #4, you're looking for part number FD0168D82A00. 1993 Mazda RX-7 FRONT DOOR TRIMS & RELATED PARTS

Spalato

iTrader: (33)

Point #3:

My door also needs a bit of a slam to close properly. I think this is a common problem that occurs with time. The weight of the door itself most likley "pulls" its self down over the years. Take her to a reputable body shop and they can fix this.

eslai

Thank you both for your responses!

diablone, that link is very handy, although actually the part in that diagram that you specified isn't the piece I'm talking about--the piece I'm talking about is on the side of that area rather than on the bottom. I'm thinking that maybe it's not sold separately, and that I'd have to buy 68DDY "PANEL LEFT (L) RECESS" "FD168DDYE00" in order to obtain it.

Spalato, I'll definitely talk to my body guy and see if it's just a matter of adjustment, thank you.

Mazderati

iTrader: (3)

The cabin on these cars seal very well so long as everything is in good condition. Closing either door with a little force behind it is normal. Open the opposite door or hatch and the door in question should be noticeably easier to close.

Original driver's side door cups have an anti-static "button" on the inside that is prone popping off. You can try gluing the button back on but the chances of it popping off again are pretty good. New door cups do not have the button.

Good looking car.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Be aware that new cups also come "94 texture style" as well :p one thing that kinda bothers me about it. You can try either wrapping a wrap or two of tape around the striker to see if it closes easier, or adjusting the striker outboard just a hair. That will help you not need to slam it as hard. With how low the miles are, I wouldn't be "scared" from forum posts away from driving it. If the pulsation dampener is bad, it'll reek of fuel after you drive it under the intake manifold. 13k miles is nothing and I believe most suggest replacing the dampener like every 75k. With the vacuum hoses, I wouldn't touch them either until you experience issues with your boost. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Those lines turn rock hard when they cook under that manifold and I usually have to dyke them in half and then use a lighter to lightly heat them before I attempt to twist and pull them off a solenoid without breaking them.

Change the the coolant in it, check the AST and make sure it's still relatively black colored (brown or even an ugly green color means that sucker needs to be changed), and check your boost for proper sequential operation. Then drive it because you own it.

Matt

eslai

Mazderati, Mrmatt3465, thank you for the advice. I've attached photos of the door pulls to this post--you can see the big hole I'm talking about in the driver side.

So, buying a new cup for the driver side sounds like a non-starter! Man, how am I going to source that little stopper thingy?
edit: now that I think about it, the piece is kind of flexible. I wonder if it got pushed inside the door panel...

I'm still torn on how "stock" I want to keep the car. At the very least, I won't do anything that isn't reversible. No drilling/cutting of plastics, especially not interior pieces that are unobtanium at this point!

Coolant is fresh, belts are new, will have to examine the AST and everything else for sure.

There's something else going on in the door I think, when I slam it it kind of rings like a gong, so I may have to get in there and see what's up. I just hate taking off door panels though as it's so easy to end up breaking off a tab or an irreplacable rivet or something.

Mazderati

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, that's the anti-static button. Didn't realize they were also found passenger side.

Never owned a '93 but they are supposed to have less insulation and sound deadening material. It wouldn't surprise me if they are louder all over. Not saying the door should be ignored if you think there's an issue, but the limited sound deadening is something to consider if expecting a really refined close.

Change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done.

eslai

I had one '93 earlier this year that didn't have this weird sound, and the passenger side doesnt' do it, so I do suspect it is abnormal (but minor).

Fuel filter--will put it on my list.

Now, if I could only find that cricket under the dash and squash it!

Red95FD

iTrader: (3)

United Radio can fix your cd player better than new. It's a fine player if you treat it right. Don't shut the car off until you stop the player and eject the cd.

eslai

Thanks, I found another site that said they don't fix these anymore, good to know there are other options. I'm in the process of purchasing one from another member right now, and it is inexpensive so hopefully that works, but if not, I'll check United Radio out.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Not certain what exactly you're hearing. A bracket may have come loose and slapping something. If you don't find anything obvious, look at the impact/intrusion reinforcement bar. MAZDA used the same type of glue/sealant between that bar and the sheet metal door 'skin' as they did on the hood and it's support on the underside. It's common for that to separate from one or the other leaving your door skin to rattle against it. Liberal use of clear silicone caulk works a treat, stays flexible and costs about $4 a tube. After that, spray a $7 can of rubberized undercoating/sound deadener on the inside of the door skin, Just use a little care not to get it into the window channel.

---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-thru-1063759/

BTW, that clear silicone caulk works on a lot of other plastic to plastic squeaks. All it typically takes is just a little film.

eslai

Brilliant, thank you. I have no idea how to track down the squeak under my dash, but definitely for the door this is great information.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

FWIW, I had a chirping-type squeak related to little bumps in the road. Not really loud and would've sworn it was in the dash. Turned out to be the hood latch. Metal to metal squeak between the latch 'hook' and the hoop on the hood. Little grease stick periodically and it's quiet.

msilvia

The metallic door closing is almost certainly the issue Sgtblue noted. Very common issue and easy to resolve with some silicone. Night-and-day difference when I addressed it on my car.

The door closing difficulty won't change though. I don't know the fix for that. People claim the cars are just well sealed, and that's clearly part of the problem, but I have a hard time believing these cars sold new with doors that were so hard to close.

You can verify that it's an air pressure issue by closing the door with a window down. Should close easily.

eslai

msilvia, it still kind of takes a good "slamming" even with the window down. The passenger side operates easier, both with the window open and closed.

Also, one thing I forgot to mention, if I lock the driver-side door from the interior lock switch, then close the door, I can pop the door open again from the outside by pulling on the exterior handle--however, the door latch will still catch on the striker/ring and you won't be able to pull the door all the way open. That doesn't seem right--either the door should stay locked, or it should unlock fully, I would expect.

I will definitely have to try that trick with the silicone, thanks msilvia and Sgtblue. Sgtblue, the hood latch being the source of squeaking is a good tip--I drove the car to get it smogged yesterday and I noticed that the hood vibrates significantly on driving and that it may have been timed with the squeaking I'm hearing. I tried to listen with the window down and my head cocked out a bit and yeah... it is possible that the source is external!

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Nice another San Diego FD. Congrats on the purchase


One thing to keep in mind about modifying this car (or not in your case). Some things are better when changed i.e. radiator, AST, dp and the beauty of it is that the original components can be easily be swapped back in.

eslai

I figure the bigger (koyo, I suppose?) radiator is definitely something I'd want to consider and yeah the AST is fine right now but I expect I'll be replacing that with a metal one (Pettit?). I hear the JDM downpipe is a thing as well, all in hopes of keeping the engine bay cooler, right?

I may put a Racing Beat catback on it just because it's so darn quiet. Beyond that though, I don't know if I want to do anything. Getting up to 350 HP would nice, but I don't know if I want to have to get a boost gauge, controller, bigger IC etc. It becomes a slippery slope and before you know it, I'm running a bigger fuel pump, injectors, Power FC and eyeing the Garrett catalog...

Do we have a lot of folks in SD? And is your car "Montego Yellow" or something?

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Actually the stock radiator does a fine job in cooling the FD. The problem lies on the plastic end tanks where they tend to crack and leak over time.

Not necessarily bigger that is, unless you track the car. Keep in mind that if you go thicker (or bigger) modifications in order to fit can come into play. I personally opted for a fluidyne (it is smaller than koyo). A few years back I heard there was a manufacturer that made a direct replacement metal rad for our cars but they were a little expensive (IIRC ~$500). Sorry I forget the name as I already had a my rad and I could care less about direct fitment.

Might as well replace it now while it is nice and black (so you can keep that way when you swap it back in). I deleted mine all together so I don't keep up with whats out there. All I can tell you is that I hated my pettit AST. That thing wouldn't seal properly and as a result my car would dump coolant after shut down. It wasn't much but it was enough to get on my nerves. Maybe I just had a bad one, who knows... All I know that "for me' deleting it was a darn good mod.

No don't get a JDM down pipe as it has to make room for the steering column that is positioned on the right side of the JDM car. Just get a regular one for USDM cars. They are cheaper and flow better (to what extent it is debatable but still). See pic below for comparison:



Also a dp is a nice mod as it replaces the pre-cat that not only retains heat but it tends to fail/clog/fall apart. The best aspect of that mod is that it also increases flow. And more flow = more power.

I totally understand as it is very easy to go overboard with mods. However a way to monitor boost is great to have though. These cars with their 72 vacuum hoses that their condition greatly depends on their age, can have constant issues that you wouldn't really notice otherwise. I'm talking if you are 1-2 lbs off as it is not enough to make a drastic difference... But you may wondering if your car is slower but aren't sure. Trust me that happens lol

Edit- If you are going to modify anything that increases flow in your exhaust (DP and or exhaust), it is imperative that you monitor and control boost. These cars absolutely HATE overboosting conditions and the price is a new engine. No joke. These cars are very solid at 10 psi but if you are overboosting (spikes, creep, or whatever) without compensating with additional fuel, things change really quick.

There are a few of us running around, they pop up here and there. Make sure you go to 7-stock this year though! Living this close to it is almost a crime not to attend at least once.

Yeah I repainted my car a few years back from Montego Blue. Won't change my name though . I have a feeling that there are a few members who would love to take the name but nah bitches! first come first serve...

onewhippedpuppy

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like an amazing car, congrats!

You can remove the door cup easily without pulling the panel, the anti-static button can be glued back into place.

I had these guys rebuild the amplifiers in my Bose door and acoustic wave speakers, it actually sounds pretty decent by 1993 standards: Factory Mazda Car Stereo Removal - BOSE Repair

I also have the dash cricket, sounds like I need to check my hood latch!

I assume you have tires with a recent date code, right? Only 13k original tires would still have tread, but would be totally unsafe from an age perspective.

eslai

Thanks--I'll have to look up door cup removal then, however if the anti-static button did get pushed in, I'll probably have to remove the door panel anyhow to find it and to do some of the soundproofing that Sgtblue described.

The tires are new-ish I believe. They are Bridgestone Expedia S-01. It doesn't even look like they're available in R16 anymore, but they're definitely not the original tires, thankfully!

onewhippedpuppy

iTrader: (3)

The little static button actually has a copper wire attaching it to the bottom of the cup, so it's probably still attached. You just remove one screw in the bottom under the cap and it should snap out.

Here's a good article on reading your tire date code, anything older than 5 years should definitely be replaced.

Tire Tech Information - Determining the Age of a Tire

eslai

Awesome, thank you for the information, Mr. Matt!

eslai

I just tried to remove the door pocket tonight and it wouldn't come out after I took out that one screw. I did some digging and found this other thread where it's stated that you do have to take the whole door panel off before you can remove that door pocket:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...pocket-709015/

So, this will have to wait until the weekend when I have a little more time to do it right!