When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I pulled out the main input shaft bearing, and thereafter realised I couldnt replace the needle bearing inside pulling down the whole transmission.
I don't have the tools required for that yet, so I decided to just put the new sealed ball bearing on the shaft and check for improvement in the neutral growling noise. If I need to come back to it, I will.
As it stands, I have the new bearing almost all the way on to the shaft, but i noticed now that the shaft is behaving differently and I am concerned I have overlooked something.
The circlip groove on the shaft is nearly exposed and the on the new collar is nearly up against the housing. Firstly, it looks like the collar has less than 1mm until it hits the transmission housing, but i cant see the groove for the circlip yet. Makes me think even if i keep driving the bearing in, I may not get the circlip groove exposed.
Also, there is no side-to-side play in the shaft anymore. It is very rigid. There is also no in/out play.
Twisting the shaft by hand, I only have 180 degrees in either direction. Before, I am pretty sure I could turn freely.
Firstly, it’s a waste of your time to spend all that energy just to put it back together and hope for the best. Growling in neutral comes from the main shaft idler bearing where the front shaft ( splined one in your photo ) and main shaft come together. It gets sprawling on it.
Secondly, when you install that front shaft bearing, you’re supposed to use the special tool or make your own spacers that go between the synchronizer and the dog teeth of first gear. What you’ve done now is jammed it on there. Its going to be a fun thing to try and fix. Chances are you will damage the synchronizer trying to get it apart now.
If I were you, I would start reading up and educate myself on what it takes to do that job. If you don’t have the special tools, I’m not exactly sure why you would’ve attempted this to begin with.
Here is some helpful links. Familiarize yourself with these and it will be very clear the issue you’re having.
Firstly, it’s a waste of your time to spend all that energy just to put it back together and hope for the best. Growling in neutral comes from the main shaft idler bearing where the front shaft ( splined one in your photo ) and main shaft come together. It gets sprawling on it.
Secondly, when you install that front shaft bearing, you’re supposed to use the special tool or make your own spacers that go between the synchronizer and the dog teeth of first gear. What you’ve done now is jammed it on there. Its going to be a fun thing to try and fix. Chances are you will damage the synchronizer trying to get it apart now.
If I were you, I would start reading up and educate myself on what it takes to do that job. If you don’t have the special tools, I’m not exactly sure why you would’ve attempted this to begin with.
Here is some helpful links. Familiarize yourself with these and it will be very clear the issue you’re having.
I dont think it is a waste of time. I have already read all of the information you shared. I also had something inserted when removing and reinstalling the bearing. It may have fallen out or become displaced when I installed the new bearing.
I wasnt planning on tearing down the trans to its individual components. I wanted to placed the input shaft bearings. I realised once the front bearing was out that the needle couldnt be replaced without stripping the entire box.
Thats a job im happy to do, but not is not the time. I know I will need extended sockets, 3 or 4 gear pullers, time and space. In the meantime, there is a chance the growling coming from the front bearing, so why not replace it?
The main bearing that you already pulled off is the tough one. After that, the input shaft idler bearing (the one most notable for the noise you’re describing) is only another 15 seconds to get to after. You remove that by removing the input shaft through the front of the case. You have to pull it forward and remove at like a 60° to the case. It will be in the end of that. Unfortunately, if you remove that main bearing again, you have to replace it. Which is why I said it’s a waste of time to pull it apart for one small part. Considering those bearings are close to 100 bucks each, I would just rather do the whole job once, then pay for it twice. But hey, that’s just me. Since you have already read those links you should be good to go. Good luck!
Not sure where you are, if you intend to properly pull the gearbox down at some stage, do have the 2' long socket and a puller for the nut and bearing you'll need to remove on the output shaft hidden somewhere. Let them go cheap, as I'm unlikely to work on a Mazda box again.
Not sure where you are, if you intend to properly pull the gearbox down at some stage, do have the 2' long socket and a puller for the nut and bearing you'll need to remove on the output shaft hidden somewhere. Let them go cheap, as I'm unlikely to work on a Mazda box again.
I will happily buy them from you if OP doesn't need them. Dropped the trans last week to eventually get arlund to the 5th gear synchro. Without a drill press I have been trying to think of a way to custom build some arm 'extensions' to get a long enough puller.
I will happily buy them from you if OP doesn't need them. Dropped the trans last week to eventually get arlund to the 5th gear synchro. Without a drill press I have been trying to think of a way to custom build some arm 'extensions' to get a long enough puller.
The socket might cost a bomb to get over there at present with freight, 3/4" drive with schedule 40 pipe must weigh several pound. The bearing puller is basically a simple machined C, inner diameter to cup the bearing, outer tapped for a couple of feet of high tensile threaded rod either side. I just used a convention slotted puller beam for the other end on the shaft for tightening, but you could do it slowly using a bit of scrap steel with a couple of holes drilled in it and tighten the nuts in turn.
See if I can find them in coming days and get a pic - if the description is lacking.
Oh geez. Yeah, you're down there in Oz. That'd cost a pretty penny even in the best of days. Thesedays that'd be well north of $100 USD to get over here. Cost about $100 to get a shoebox-sized thing with maybe 5lbs in it a few months ago. Gotta be 50% more now at least with the fuel surcharges.
The tool is just an extended 41mm socket. You can get a 41mm impact socket and a ~16" long 2.5" OD carbon steel pipe, then take it to a welder to have them cut the socket in half and weld to the pipe. I just did that this past November, and the total cost was ~$100.
