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Time for Sale?

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Old 05-13-17, 05:15 PM
  #101  
Put it in the microwave!

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sounds about right buddy. another FD back on the road and roaming woohoo
Old 05-13-17, 05:22 PM
  #102  
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A couple of questions. I thought a new engine included a water pump. Maybe I'm wrong. Why do you need a new engine gasket set when buying a new engine?

Maybe I'm missing something??
Old 05-13-17, 06:56 PM
  #103  
Put it in the microwave!

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the new small blocks don't come with wp assembly anymore it's an NLA item. at least the fillerneck it is

Last edited by kensin; 05-13-17 at 07:36 PM.
Old 05-13-17, 07:06 PM
  #104  
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I believe the engine gasket set, is the downpipe gasket, exhaust manifold, oil line gasket, etc ones for that price. Could include the 2 turbo to exhaust manifold gasket (easily 100+)
Old 05-14-17, 06:41 PM
  #105  
Time or Money, Pick one

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Thanks for the continued update. It really helps us all.
Old 05-19-17, 12:22 AM
  #106  
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Agreed, thanks for updating the thread. 20 hours labor to remove, tear down / inspect, and replace the engine seems like a fair price. I'm not a professional, but I think it took me about 12+ hours to remove the engine from my RX-7 even with access to a good set of tools and a 2-post lift.
Old 05-20-17, 09:17 PM
  #107  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by kensin
the new small blocks don't come with wp assembly anymore it's an NLA item. at least the fillerneck it is
Nope, nor any of the attached peripherals. I scored one of Ray's last new engines that had all that on it about 2 years ago.

Originally Posted by rlee429
I believe the engine gasket set, is the downpipe gasket, exhaust manifold, oil line gasket, etc ones for that price. Could include the 2 turbo to exhaust manifold gasket (easily 100+)
Between the pair of 'diamond' gaskets that go on the rotor housings, both asymmetric turbo exhaust mani gaskets and the DP gasket you're at about that price. That stuff is crazy expensive. Twins are great for the right application, but people don't realize how pricey all that stuff is, in addition to the coolant lines, oil gaskets, y-pipe gaskets, oem studs, copper nuts, etc etc.....
Old 05-21-17, 11:07 AM
  #108  
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Hoping here that the remaining life of the peripherals not replaced (alternator, rat's nest solenoids, FPD, fuel injectors, ignition coils, etc, etc) is long enough that the car won't come back to "bite" me at least in the short term. Yoshiya says the clutch has around 70-80% life remaining, T/O bearing is "smooth," so no need there for replacement.

Waiting on arrival of the engine at this time. No serial number or tracking number yet.

Last edited by wstrohm; 05-21-17 at 11:10 AM.
Old 05-21-17, 04:29 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by wstrohm
Hoping here that the remaining life of the peripherals not replaced (alternator, rat's nest solenoids, FPD, fuel injectors, ignition coils, etc, etc) is long enough that the car won't come back to "bite" me at least in the short term. Yoshiya says the clutch has around 70-80% life remaining, T/O bearing is "smooth," so no need there for replacement.

Waiting on arrival of the engine at this time. No serial number or tracking number yet.
Replace all peripherals and they will absolutely come back to bite you.

This is the time to do it
Old 05-21-17, 05:46 PM
  #110  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by wstrohm
Hoping here that the remaining life of the peripherals not replaced (alternator, rat's nest solenoids, FPD, fuel injectors, ignition coils, etc, etc) is long enough that the car won't come back to "bite" me at least in the short term. Yoshiya says the clutch has around 70-80% life remaining, T/O bearing is "smooth," so no need there for replacement.

Waiting on arrival of the engine at this time. No serial number or tracking number yet.
Given your mileage......

parts that are easy to replace later like the alternator it's ok to leave.

FPD, if original for God's sake replace it, like LAST YEAR

send the injectors out for cleaning/flow testing.

coils are fine if working ok, consider replacing the ignition harness if original. The updated version has an internal ground.

Replace OMP lines if you aren't already, assuming engine harness is being replaced too.

No offense towards Yoshi, I've heard good things, and he is the one physically looking at all this stuff, but he should be telling you similar to what I just typed IMO.
Old 05-21-17, 05:47 PM
  #111  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
Replace all peripherals and they will absolutely come back to bite you.

This is the time to do it
Words of Wisdom from an Original Rotary Gangster right here
Old 05-22-17, 11:36 AM
  #112  
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parts that are easy to replace later like the alternator it's ok to leave.

FPD, if original for God's sake replace it, like LAST YEAR

send the injectors out for cleaning/flow testing.

coils are fine if working ok, consider replacing the ignition harness if original. The updated version has an internal ground.

Replace OMP lines if you aren't already, assuming engine harness is being replaced too.

No offense towards Yoshi, I've heard good things, and he is the one physically looking at all this stuff, but he should be telling you similar to what I just typed IMO.
FPD has been replaced once, 11/06, at 90 K miles. Yoshi has included fuel injector system service in his quote. Both engine harness and ignition harness are included in the parts quote and will be replaced. I bought new OMP lines from Ray Crowe and they are at NepTune Speed now.
Old 05-22-17, 03:21 PM
  #113  
Put it in the microwave!

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you are in good hands mate once your car is out of the shop mine goes in for a transmission job
Old 05-26-17, 12:23 PM
  #114  
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Ray Crowe wrote that he has shipped two crate engines to NepTune Speed. One is due to arrive 5/31, the other is due 6/1. Apparently one is ours. (He didn't say if both were 13Bs.)
Old 06-01-17, 07:57 PM
  #115  
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Here's our new 13B engine at NepTune Speed.
Attached Thumbnails Time for Sale?-new-fd-engine.jpg  
Old 06-01-17, 08:35 PM
  #116  
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I would get rid of that heavy flywheel. Now is the time to do it
Old 06-02-17, 06:18 AM
  #117  
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Keep the stock flywheel. Stock flywheel + stock clutch is underrated.
Old 06-02-17, 07:40 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by adam c
I would get rid of that heavy flywheel. Now is the time to do it
+1. I like mine. Something like the ACT street lite is a power adder without the baggage of more boost, more fuel, more heat or more stress...and still completely streetable.
Old 06-02-17, 08:02 AM
  #119  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by arghx
Keep the stock flywheel. Stock flywheel + stock clutch is underrated.
Disagree.

Unless you're a dedicated drag racer, IMO a lightened flywheel gives nothing but benefit and is a must for any FD owner who enjoys driving their 7 the way it's meant to be driven
Old 06-02-17, 08:24 AM
  #120  
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I had great success with the stock clutch/flywheel assembly. But when I rebuilt my motor I upgraded to the streetlight FW and SS clutch. I have no regrets, my left foot learned the pedal feel difference in two shifts and I never give it any thought until it comes up in a thread.
Old 06-02-17, 11:16 AM
  #121  
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When the experts disagree... in my case this is wife's car and she wants it as close to stock as possible. I bought an HKS flywheel for my Miata back in B.C., and it was 16 lbs vs. the OEM 20 lbs. I liked it, but can't say it made a lot of difference. For our purposes, the stock flywheel is fine... the car gets driven moderately (usually) and more torque at the rear wheels is not really necessary.
Old 06-02-17, 04:43 PM
  #122  
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I always had good experience with rotary power in gardena. Jeff the owner really knows his stuff. Been going to him for 20 years
Old 06-13-17, 08:16 PM
  #123  
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Overhaul Complete

It's back. Final cost: $10,287.84. No unforeseen problems. Sales receipt attached, also the R.C. fuel injection balance/calibration results. Yoshiya recommended break-in of about 1K miles... during which use pre-mix at 8 ounces of (preferably 2-cycle premix) oil per tankful, stay below 4K rpm, lay off boost. Since wife drives this car only about 1K miles per year, that will be a drag. But it's home now.

Now the issue is how to find a shop that will refill the A/C system with R-12 Freon. Yoshiya has no adapter for R-12 (only R-134A).
Attached Thumbnails Time for Sale?-fd-overhaul.jpg   Time for Sale?-primary-injectors.jpg   Time for Sale?-secondary-injectors.jpg  
Old 06-13-17, 08:46 PM
  #124  
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Not a bad price. Labor wasn't much.
Old 06-13-17, 11:16 PM
  #125  
Put it in the microwave!

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I know a guy in Ontario that just did my 94 with R12. If you like. I can forward his information to you

Best 150 I have ever spent



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