sounds about right buddy. another FD back on the road and roaming woohoo

 

A couple of questions. I thought a new engine included a water pump. Maybe I'm wrong. Why do you need a new engine gasket set when buying a new engine?

Maybe I'm missing something??

 

the new small blocks don't come with wp assembly anymore it's an NLA item. at least the fillerneck it is

 

I believe the engine gasket set, is the downpipe gasket, exhaust manifold, oil line gasket, etc ones for that price. Could include the 2 turbo to exhaust manifold gasket (easily 100+)

 

Thanks for the continued update. It really helps us all.

 

Agreed, thanks for updating the thread. 20 hours labor to remove, tear down / inspect, and replace the engine seems like a fair price. I'm not a professional, but I think it took me about 12+ hours to remove the engine from my RX-7 even with access to a good set of tools and a 2-post lift.

 

Nope, nor any of the attached peripherals. I scored one of Ray's last new engines that had all that on it about 2 years ago.

Between the pair of 'diamond' gaskets that go on the rotor housings, both asymmetric turbo exhaust mani gaskets and the DP gasket you're at about that price. That stuff is crazy expensive. Twins are great for the right application, but people don't realize how pricey all that stuff is, in addition to the coolant lines, oil gaskets, y-pipe gaskets, oem studs, copper nuts, etc etc.....

 

Hoping here that the remaining life of the peripherals not replaced (alternator, rat's nest solenoids, FPD, fuel injectors, ignition coils, etc, etc) is long enough that the car won't come back to "bite" me at least in the short term. Yoshiya says the clutch has around 70-80% life remaining, T/O bearing is "smooth," so no need there for replacement.

Waiting on arrival of the engine at this time. No serial number or tracking number yet.

 

Replace all peripherals and they will absolutely come back to bite you.

This is the time to do it

 

Given your mileage......

parts that are easy to replace later like the alternator it's ok to leave.

FPD, if original for God's sake replace it, like LAST YEAR

send the injectors out for cleaning/flow testing.

coils are fine if working ok, consider replacing the ignition harness if original. The updated version has an internal ground.

Replace OMP lines if you aren't already, assuming engine harness is being replaced too.

No offense towards Yoshi, I've heard good things, and he is the one physically looking at all this stuff, but he should be telling you similar to what I just typed IMO.

 

Words of Wisdom from an Original Rotary Gangster right here

 

FPD has been replaced once, 11/06, at 90 K miles. Yoshi has included fuel injector system service in his quote. Both engine harness and ignition harness are included in the parts quote and will be replaced. I bought new OMP lines from Ray Crowe and they are at NepTune Speed now.

 

you are in good hands mate once your car is out of the shop mine goes in for a transmission job

 

Ray Crowe wrote that he has shipped two crate engines to NepTune Speed. One is due to arrive 5/31, the other is due 6/1. Apparently one is ours. (He didn't say if both were 13Bs.)

 

Here's our new 13B engine at NepTune Speed.

 

I would get rid of that heavy flywheel. Now is the time to do it

 

Keep the stock flywheel. Stock flywheel + stock clutch is underrated.

 

+1. I like mine. Something like the ACT street lite is a power adder without the baggage of more boost, more fuel, more heat or more stress...and still completely streetable.

 

Disagree.

Unless you're a dedicated drag racer, IMO a lightened flywheel gives nothing but benefit and is a must for any FD owner who enjoys driving their 7 the way it's meant to be driven

 

I had great success with the stock clutch/flywheel assembly. But when I rebuilt my motor I upgraded to the streetlight FW and SS clutch. I have no regrets, my left foot learned the pedal feel difference in two shifts and I never give it any thought until it comes up in a thread.

 

When the experts disagree... in my case this is wife's car and she wants it as close to stock as possible. I bought an HKS flywheel for my Miata back in B.C., and it was 16 lbs vs. the OEM 20 lbs. I liked it, but can't say it made a lot of difference. For our purposes, the stock flywheel is fine... the car gets driven moderately (usually) and more torque at the rear wheels is not really necessary.

 

I always had good experience with rotary power in gardena. Jeff the owner really knows his stuff. Been going to him for 20 years

 

It's back. Final cost: $10,287.84. No unforeseen problems. Sales receipt attached, also the R.C. fuel injection balance/calibration results. Yoshiya recommended break-in of about 1K miles... during which use pre-mix at 8 ounces of (preferably 2-cycle premix) oil per tankful, stay below 4K rpm, lay off boost. Since wife drives this car only about 1K miles per year, that will be a drag. But it's home now.

Now the issue is how to find a shop that will refill the A/C system with R-12 Freon. Yoshiya has no adapter for R-12 (only R-134A).

 

Not a bad price. Labor wasn't much.

 

I know a guy in Ontario that just did my 94 with R12. If you like. I can forward his information to you

Best 150 I have ever spent