Security light stuck on, draining battery.
#1
Security light stuck on, draining battery.
As the thread title says. Seems like the security light on the center console is stuck on.
when I turn the key in either direction it turns off, but when I Re-center key in barrel to remove it, the light comes back on and stays on and then becomes a phantom drain on battery.
anyone had this issue? I did try searching…
when I turn the key in either direction it turns off, but when I Re-center key in barrel to remove it, the light comes back on and stays on and then becomes a phantom drain on battery.
anyone had this issue? I did try searching…
#2
Do you have a copy of the electrical manual? There is a troubleshooting flowchart for the sec system.
That said, one of those battery mounted cutoff switches solves a multitude of battery drain problems.
Security Light wont go off.... - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum
That said, one of those battery mounted cutoff switches solves a multitude of battery drain problems.
Security Light wont go off.... - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum
Last edited by provels; 08-18-21 at 07:27 AM.
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Probably going to be CPU #2 related, that handles the security system stuff.
When you close up the car and lock the doors, I believe it will go solid for a while, then go out and then blink every now and again. That should be in the owner's manual.
Dale
When you close up the car and lock the doors, I believe it will go solid for a while, then go out and then blink every now and again. That should be in the owner's manual.
Dale
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cnidus (08-25-21)
#4
I think I figured it out. The drivers door lock switch (on the back of the barrel) seemed to have dislodged and was not telling ecu2 the door was locked.
fixed that while I fixed the handle mechanism, light turns out now when properly locked.
still need to diagnose if that was my power drain though… for now it’s on a battery maintainer in the garage.
thanks for the help
fixed that while I fixed the handle mechanism, light turns out now when properly locked.
still need to diagnose if that was my power drain though… for now it’s on a battery maintainer in the garage.
thanks for the help
#5
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
1. Get yourself an ammeter with a range high enough to measure the expected drain. If it takes a few days to kill your battery, an ammeter that can read up to 2A should be plenty.
2. Hook up the ammeter in series with the battery ground cable (so ammeter connects between negative battery post and the removed battery ground cable)
3. With key out & off, all doors/hatch closed (so no lights should be on), read the parasitic current draw. You can expect to see something on the order of 10's of mA current to run things like the clock, radio memory pre-sets, security system, etc. If it's significantly higher than that (e.g., 100's of mA ~ 1A or more), then you have a problem to investigate.
4. To narrow down to the circuit causing the excessive current draw, remove each fuse and reinstall it in a one-by-one in sequence, while monitoring the parasitic current after each fuse removal. When you remove the fuse of the offending circuit, you should see the parasitic current reading drop significantly.
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Here is another excellent method -
Dale
Dale
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rotaryextreme (09-07-21)
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