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Yeah I've found a few parts over the years that were substantially cheaper on Amayama, even when factoring in shipping. The trim around the side windows is one example that pops to mind.
If you just need a few odds and ends, no big deal, but a large order or higher ticket items it's worth plugging that part number in Amayama. Especially if you are getting a bunch of parts so you just have to pay to ship one box.
Also, that said, Ray Crowe ships EVERYTHING for $15. I recently got parts to rebuild the engine on an RX-8 with a new rotor housing, all the seals, tons of hoses, and the trans tunnel heat shield that was in a large, bulky box. Got 2 giant boxes delivered, $15. You can't beat that.
Also, that said, Ray Crowe ships EVERYTHING for $15. I recently got parts to rebuild the engine on an RX-8 with a new rotor housing, all the seals, tons of hoses, and the trans tunnel heat shield that was in a large, bulky box. Got 2 giant boxes delivered, $15. You can't beat that.
Dale
that is good, what does he charge for sales tax? i was going to say i can beat his price but our sales tax is like 10%!
that is good, what does he charge for sales tax? i was going to say i can beat his price but our sales tax is like 10%!
Ray doesn't charge sales tax. NuCar Mazda (where his stuff gets shipped from) is in Delaware, a no sales tax state. Also, if you live close enough to NuCar to pick your stuff up (I do), he can set up the order for pickup, and you don't pay shipping either. Don't know if that applies to the big/heavy stuff like short block motors, but it did for anything else I purchased.
When you buy parts from Mazda USA, you simply must look at the pick ticket, it has a spot for a picture, and most are just upstairs/downstairs, but they have a surprising variety and they are usually done in a funny style
for instance they have one that has a boat, but its not a modern boat, its like a cartoon paddle wheel boat (which may explain why it takes so long?)
there are a few levels, but the applicable ones are
the lowest is just to sign up, you can buy competition parts only.
the next one is the typical racer thing. previously you needed to have TWO race results, but now you only need ONE, or pics of the car under construction. this allows you to buy stock parts and competition parts for that car
it is kind of big news that they made is easier to sign up.
Thank you for writing this. I'm struggling to figure out a part number G030-50-950. The 0950 tells me it should be an M9, 5mm long, the other bits of the part number I can't figure out. Are you able to help? Please and thanks!
Thank you for writing this. I'm struggling to figure out a part number G030-50-950. The 0950 tells me it should be an M9, 5mm long, the other bits of the part number I can't figure out. Are you able to help? Please and thanks!
hardware part numbers start with a 9, and then are the style/size
that one doesn't start with a 9, so it follows the rules for a normal part number, like post #1.
for G030-50-950
the 50 means it should be in section 50, which is bumpers and grilles
950 makes it a cowl screw. remember if it is a hardware item it will be JIS standard, if it is not JIS standard then it will get a normal part number
G030 is an 83-87 626/Mx6
G030-50-950 didn't come up for me, but the cowl screws on an SA/FB have little plastic washers on them, but other wise i think are just normal metric self tapping screws
For US models, G03050950 was superceded by FA2450950 from November 1983. It is a self-tapping screw with plastic washer.
Interestingly, RHD models use a different part number G03051880. I have a few of these new old stock in packets and they look the same, although I suspect they may be shorter, as the US models had a weatherstrip going along the whole of the back of the bonnet (requiring a longer screw perhaps?), whereas RHD only had weatherstrips in the corners.
If you can't get G03050950 or GA2450950, you can definitely still get G03051880, as it is used on 929s amongst a bunch of other models.
Local kids are trying to reconstitute the sequential set up on a 1997 Version 4 car. They could not find the plug to plug into the third port of the ecu. This is why.
That third port might be for the auto transmission wiring, but that is only a guess so far.
I believe that is the case. Also I think Mazda used the same type of connectors for all their cars in that era so they would definitely have extra wiring for cars with larger engines, auto trans control, etc.
I know in Japan they have the ECU patch harnesses that go between the stock ECU and the wiring harness to make it easy to tap in electronics without hacking into the stock harness. I do believe there is a patch harness for the later 16-bit ECU's, that would be an option for those connectors. Or just find another Mazda of the same era in the junkyard and cut off those connectors.
hardware part numbers start with a 9, and then are the style/size
that one doesn't start with a 9, so it follows the rules for a normal part number, like post #1.
for G030-50-950
the 50 means it should be in section 50, which is bumpers and grilles
950 makes it a cowl screw. remember if it is a hardware item it will be JIS standard, if it is not JIS standard then it will get a normal part number
G030 is an 83-87 626/Mx6
G030-50-950 didn't come up for me, but the cowl screws on an SA/FB have little plastic washers on them, but other wise i think are just normal metric self tapping screws
thank you! So in the non-hardware (99xxx) P/Ns the last three is the prefix code for the hardware style?
Last edited by gibbym89; Oct 25, 2022 at 04:44 PM.
For US models, G03050950 was superceded by FA2450950 from November 1983. It is a self-tapping screw with plastic washer.
Interestingly, RHD models use a different part number G03051880. I have a few of these new old stock in packets and they look the same, although I suspect they may be shorter, as the US models had a weatherstrip going along the whole of the back of the bonnet (requiring a longer screw perhaps?), whereas RHD only had weatherstrips in the corners.
If you can't get G03050950 or GA2450950, you can definitely still get G03051880, as it is used on 929s amongst a bunch of other models.
thank you! How do you find what the superseding P/N are with the EPC? I’m only have access to PDFs and original factory manuals so far. Partsouq.com has been a help but I have to really research a lot to get the hardware prefix codes figured out.
thank you! So in the non-hardware (99xxx) P/Ns the last three is the prefix code for the hardware style?
9 makes it hardware, i think you've got that backwards. but yes, it tells you bolt, nut, screw, rivet, and then the style.
for the style its best to just google it and hope for a pic, or a known original car
9 makes it hardware, i think you've got that backwards. but yes, it tells you bolt, nut, screw, rivet, and then the style.
for the style its best to just google it and hope for a pic, or a known original car
sorry I meant at the end of the G030 part number the last three were 950, does that make the 950 the same as the prefix 950 in the general hardware part numbers? Thanks for your help.
sorry I meant at the end of the G030 part number the last three were 950, does that make the 950 the same as the prefix 950 in the general hardware part numbers? Thanks for your help.
no. normal part numbers just tell you what the part is.
I believe that is the case. Also I think Mazda used the same type of connectors for all their cars in that era so they would definitely have extra wiring for cars with larger engines, auto trans control, etc.
I know in Japan they have the ECU patch harnesses that go between the stock ECU and the wiring harness to make it easy to tap in electronics without hacking into the stock harness. I do believe there is a patch harness for the later 16-bit ECU's, that would be an option for those connectors. Or just find another Mazda of the same era in the junkyard and cut off those connectors.
I have two Windows VMs just for the two EPCs (EU/JDM)
