How much does your FD weigh?
06-26-16, 01:19 AM
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
How much does your FD weigh?
I got mine weighed today and it was 2376 pounds. That's lighter than I thought it would be.
Although I'd like to get it under one metric ton (it's currently 1080), once I put some big fat 17s on it, it will probably go well over 2400 pounds.
I can probably compensate for the weight of the bigger wheels by removing the undercoating, though.
A big rear wing and a tank of gas will add some weight, too.
Although I'd like to get it under one metric ton (it's currently 1080), once I put some big fat 17s on it, it will probably go well over 2400 pounds.
I can probably compensate for the weight of the bigger wheels by removing the undercoating, though.
A big rear wing and a tank of gas will add some weight, too.
06-26-16, 09:37 AM
#2
Is the car running/functioning and weighed with wheels on it? If so that'd make you the lightest FD I've ever heard of. My car is 2790 and I don't think even if I took out the entire interior, dumped a/c, and p/s I could lose 400lbs out if it.
I'd think the only way sub 2400 for a functioning car would be possible would be single turbo, everything from the interior gutted, and every other lightened component you could think of.
I'd think the only way sub 2400 for a functioning car would be possible would be single turbo, everything from the interior gutted, and every other lightened component you could think of.
06-26-16, 10:19 AM
#3
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I got mine weighed today and it was 2376 pounds. That's lighter than I thought it would be.
Although I'd like to get it under one metric ton (it's currently 1080), once I put some big fat 17s on it, it will probably go well over 2400 pounds.
I can probably compensate for the weight of the bigger wheels by removing the undercoating, though.
A big rear wing and a tank of gas will add some weight, too.
Although I'd like to get it under one metric ton (it's currently 1080), once I put some big fat 17s on it, it will probably go well over 2400 pounds.
I can probably compensate for the weight of the bigger wheels by removing the undercoating, though.
A big rear wing and a tank of gas will add some weight, too.
I have a gutted touring and it's likely 300 pounds lighter than a stock 93 touring at 2780 so I'm at 2480. Please tell us how you lost the additional 100
Airpump and misc emission parts -15
AC -30
PS -25
Stereo, antenna etc... -25
rear deck and hatch stripped -40 (no carpet, plastics, spare, deck cover, jack etc...)
Exhaust -35
Carpet -30
Seats 1 race and passenger gone -50
steering wheel -5
roof liner -5
passenger seat belt -5
air pump pulley kit -3
sunvisors -3
lwt clutch and fly -10
lwt battery -15
can't think of much more
06-26-16, 01:06 PM
#4
I'd think the only way sub 2400 for a functioning car would be possible would be single turbo, everything from the interior gutted, and every other lightened component you could think of.
Please tell us how you lost the additional 100
You guys act like you have never seen a real race car!
You know how its done.
Remove everything you can off the stock unibody, cut off all parts of the unibody allowed by rules, add back in everything needed to race and the required safety gear.
Garage Revolution FD is 2,116lbs at race weight in a unibody class.
I am sure there is 100lbs of safety gear you could take out if you weren't doing sanctioned racing.
Here are some articles with good pics to give you ideas (no, I have no idea how you will get the $$ to implement such ideas).
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 1
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 2
Mazda FD3S RX-7 - Import Tuner Magazine
Please tell us how you lost the additional 100
You guys act like you have never seen a real race car!
You know how its done.
Remove everything you can off the stock unibody, cut off all parts of the unibody allowed by rules, add back in everything needed to race and the required safety gear.
Garage Revolution FD is 2,116lbs at race weight in a unibody class.
I am sure there is 100lbs of safety gear you could take out if you weren't doing sanctioned racing.
Here are some articles with good pics to give you ideas (no, I have no idea how you will get the $$ to implement such ideas).
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 1
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 2
Mazda FD3S RX-7 - Import Tuner Magazine
06-26-16, 01:15 PM
#5
had my car weighed with a bit over half a tank of gas .
and I got 2700 even
unfortunately its 1370 front 1330 rear .
my car still has the normal amenities , like AC
as for weight reductions
air pump ,
air bags and sensors
stripped rear still has some plastics
bucket driver seat
reclinable corbeau bucket passenger
full exhaust
some sound deadening removal
smaller miata battery relocated to passenger bin.
and I got 2700 even
unfortunately its 1370 front 1330 rear .
my car still has the normal amenities , like AC
as for weight reductions
air pump ,
air bags and sensors
stripped rear still has some plastics
bucket driver seat
reclinable corbeau bucket passenger
full exhaust
some sound deadening removal
smaller miata battery relocated to passenger bin.
06-26-16, 04:18 PM
#6
All out Track Freak!
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I'd think the only way sub 2400 for a functioning car would be possible would be single turbo, everything from the interior gutted, and every other lightened component you could think of.
Please tell us how you lost the additional 100
You guys act like you have never seen a real race car!
You know how its done.
Remove everything you can off the stock unibody, cut off all parts of the unibody allowed by rules, add back in everything needed to race and the required safety gear.
Garage Revolution FD is 2,116lbs at race weight in a unibody class.
I am sure there is 100lbs of safety gear you could take out if you weren't doing sanctioned racing.
Here are some articles with good pics to give you ideas (no, I have no idea how you will get the $$ to implement such ideas).
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 1
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 2
Mazda FD3S RX-7 - Import Tuner Magazine
Please tell us how you lost the additional 100
You guys act like you have never seen a real race car!
You know how its done.
Remove everything you can off the stock unibody, cut off all parts of the unibody allowed by rules, add back in everything needed to race and the required safety gear.
Garage Revolution FD is 2,116lbs at race weight in a unibody class.
I am sure there is 100lbs of safety gear you could take out if you weren't doing sanctioned racing.
Here are some articles with good pics to give you ideas (no, I have no idea how you will get the $$ to implement such ideas).
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 1
Beyond the Dyno: Garage Revolution's Time Attack FD3S RX-7, Part 2
Mazda FD3S RX-7 - Import Tuner Magazine
Is it a race car or a street car?
Either way I'm impressed because my track FD is also gutted but with cage, big brakes, etc.... it's 2600.
06-26-16, 04:39 PM
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
In my case, the interior is stripped, the AC is gone, there's no wing (yet), the passenger seat is out, there's an FRP bucket seat installed, aftermarket steering wheel, carbon fiber/FRP hood, single turbo, straight pipe, no ACV or air pump, gutted front bumper... and 16 inch wheels with narrow snow tires.
And the gas tank only has a few gallons in it at the moment.
There are still a few pounds to loose in sound deadening a useless metal bits in the rear hatch. I also have a full-sized battery.
And the gas tank only has a few gallons in it at the moment.
There are still a few pounds to loose in sound deadening a useless metal bits in the rear hatch. I also have a full-sized battery.
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06-26-16, 09:01 PM
#8
All out Track Freak!
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In my case, the interior is stripped, the AC is gone, there's no wing (yet), the passenger seat is out, there's an FRP bucket seat installed, aftermarket steering wheel, carbon fiber/FRP hood, single turbo, straight pipe, no ACV or air pump, gutted front bumper... and 16 inch wheels with narrow snow tires.
And the gas tank only has a few gallons in it at the moment.
There are still a few pounds to loose in sound deadening a useless metal bits in the rear hatch. I also have a full-sized battery.
And the gas tank only has a few gallons in it at the moment.
There are still a few pounds to loose in sound deadening a useless metal bits in the rear hatch. I also have a full-sized battery.
I bet your car is super fun to drive
Last edited by Fritz Flynn; 06-27-16 at 07:41 AM.
06-26-16, 10:05 PM
#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
I'm sure it will be. The best part is that it's still lighter than stock with me in it. Which is saying something.
Just got the ride height and corner weight adjusted and got it aligned.
The corner weight was corrected to a reasonable degree considering I was in the car. Relocating the heavy battery right behind the passenger seat probably helped. It used to be installed in the hatch area on a flimsy wooden base that probably would have sent the battery flying right at me in a crash.
Guess it's time to pick up some dry ice and a chisel...
Just got the ride height and corner weight adjusted and got it aligned.
The corner weight was corrected to a reasonable degree considering I was in the car. Relocating the heavy battery right behind the passenger seat probably helped. It used to be installed in the hatch area on a flimsy wooden base that probably would have sent the battery flying right at me in a crash.
Guess it's time to pick up some dry ice and a chisel...
06-27-16, 05:18 PM
#10
Rotary Freak
There's supposedly 15kg in sound deadener/insulation - can't quite believe that myself!
If you're going to cage the car, the usual working figure is around 40kg to add to your total if using CDS or CDW. You can offset that and more with composite doors and hatch, if you're brave, they should net around ~ 60kg savings.
The one here was 1218kg, half tank, 100kg driver when in the basic, stripped stock area, including cage.
I'd probably look at 18s if slicks are a possibility, if using r comps, 17s wouldn't be a disadvantage.
If you're going to cage the car, the usual working figure is around 40kg to add to your total if using CDS or CDW. You can offset that and more with composite doors and hatch, if you're brave, they should net around ~ 60kg savings.
The one here was 1218kg, half tank, 100kg driver when in the basic, stripped stock area, including cage.
I'd probably look at 18s if slicks are a possibility, if using r comps, 17s wouldn't be a disadvantage.
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