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Hey everyone ill get right into it, the car is a 1992 RX7 with 35000 miles. The car had low compression when imported so I had the 13b rebuilt and a mild streetport done. Car has a Haltech Elite 1500 ECU with the plug and play adapter. Car ran fine for about 500 miles after the rebuild. I took the car out with the gf for a Sunday drive, we stopped to eat and after getting about 5 minutes down the road the car died as I was coming out of a stop sign and I couldn't get it started again. I was able to trailer it home and have begin to diagnose the problem.
When I put the key into ACC the fuel pump is not priming. I have jumpered the F/P and GND and I can get the fuel pump to prime that way but it will not start. I have checked my fuel relay and it seems to be working when I ground and put 12v to it. I have checked my fuel pump fuse under the dash. I pulled a line off the front and while jumpered at diagnostic box I am getting fuel to the front of the car. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge atm but I will be getting one. I am going to check for spark today and I am ordering a compression tester but they are on backorder until the 30th.
My haltech power light is flashing green so I'm wondering if the ECU is causing the issue but that is beyond my knowledge.
1.Should I check the EGI relay and the Main circuit Relay? I can hear clicking when I turn the car over but that could be one or the other..
2.Is there anything else i should check that could cause this?
If you want to test if it is an ECU problem, turn the key to ON without starting the engine. Open the Haltech ESP software (its free if you don't have it), go to setup by clicking the gear icon, click on the functions button, click on "Fuel Pump", then in the wiring tab, you see a "active state" dropdown. If you change this to 'High' and clidk Apply it should turn on the fuel pump until you change it back to 'Low'.
If your pump does not turn on, you either have a dead pin on your ECU (which isn't likely) or somewhere along the line, the connection between that output wire and the relay is broken. You can also see that it helpfully tells you the color and pin name of the fuel pump signal wire (on the Haltech side, not the factory wiring harness), so you can use the diagram that came with the PnP harness to find it and measure it with a DMM. When it's 'Low' it should be grounded, when its 'High' it should be open.
Hope this can help, good luck.
Two other things, I noticed you said when you turn the key to ACC it doesn't prime, I assume you meant ON as the ECU isn't powered with the key on ACC? Second, when my ECU is on it is a steady purple for the power light. I have an Elite 2000 but I'd be suprised if they changed the lighting scheme. Opening up the ESP software should tell you if there's a problem however, at the bottom right of the screen it will list any diagnostic errors if found.
Thanks for the quick and informative reply! Yes I did mean I turned the key to ON. I did not install the Haltech myself and the shop used their own cable but I am going to BestBuy this weekend and ill grab a compatible cable and start there. I called Haltech and he suggested as you stated to download the software and start there but he was confused as to why the power light was blinking, he said to get the cable and start with making sure the ECU is even recognizing itself on the software. He did say I could also pull any codes once Im in as well. Once I have the cable and get to my shop Ill do as you suggested and start there.
Not sure if you checked fuses, but check your FP fuse and also the circuit opening relay. Without, you should not be able to prime, and the diagnostic jump will still work.
Hey guys, finally had some time to get to the car this weekend so a quick update. I got the Haltech software downloaded and the cable needed. When I hook everything up it is saying "Cannot Connect To ECU". I gave Haltech another call and as soon as I mentioned the flashing green light he knew it probably was a faulty unit before I mentioned the unable to connect problem. Im gonna send it in and have it went through but in the mean time, I'm gonna be checking every fuse and testing for shorts to see what could have caused an issue as the car was driving fine before.
I have checked the Fuel pump fuse and most all relays but I'm gonna do a thorough check of all fuses. Any ideas on a good place to start or should I just start in the back of the car and work all the way through the front?
07-23-21, 02:22 PM
