B2A (built to apex) oil pan
B2A (built to apex) oil pan
Is anybody running this oil pan or know anybody that is? Previous concerns with the older cast aluminum pans of cracking or weeping due to bad casting seem to be no more with this pan. These oil pans are billet aluminum so it would seem that would get rid of both those concerns. Only thing im seeing, not necessarily a problem, is not being o-ringed like the cast counter parts. Here is a link. Any input would be appreciated!
Built 2 Apex
Built 2 Apex
The Bacon oil pan is a really nice option if you're looking for a pan like this.
My beef with a lot of these "race" pans is there is no provision for the oil level sender. IMHO that's a really good thing to have. Also some hang down lower than the subframe which can expose them to being hit and aluminum won't bend, it will crack.
I applaud them for making a new FD product but I think it's pricey for what you get.
Dale
My beef with a lot of these "race" pans is there is no provision for the oil level sender. IMHO that's a really good thing to have. Also some hang down lower than the subframe which can expose them to being hit and aluminum won't bend, it will crack.
I applaud them for making a new FD product but I think it's pricey for what you get.
Dale
The Bacon oil pan is a really nice option if you're looking for a pan like this.
My beef with a lot of these "race" pans is there is no provision for the oil level sender. IMHO that's a really good thing to have. Also some hang down lower than the subframe which can expose them to being hit and aluminum won't bend, it will crack.
I applaud them for making a new FD product but I think it's pricey for what you get.
Dale
My beef with a lot of these "race" pans is there is no provision for the oil level sender. IMHO that's a really good thing to have. Also some hang down lower than the subframe which can expose them to being hit and aluminum won't bend, it will crack.
I applaud them for making a new FD product but I think it's pricey for what you get.
Dale

The Bacon oil pan is a really nice option if you're looking for a pan like this.
My beef with a lot of these "race" pans is there is no provision for the oil level sender. IMHO that's a really good thing to have. Also some hang down lower than the subframe which can expose them to being hit and aluminum won't bend, it will crack.
I applaud them for making a new FD product but I think it's pricey for what you get.
Dale
My beef with a lot of these "race" pans is there is no provision for the oil level sender. IMHO that's a really good thing to have. Also some hang down lower than the subframe which can expose them to being hit and aluminum won't bend, it will crack.
I applaud them for making a new FD product but I think it's pricey for what you get.
Dale
1. Race pans don't need a level sensor, because it gets in the way of what's much more important: the baffling system. I was not going to compromise a good baffling system to put a sensor in that has a high failure rate. Now for customers who insist on the level sensor, we can add that in for no extra charge, it's just an option we recommend against because it does get in the way of the lateral baffling.
2. The Winchester/Bacon unit is a great pan to go with, I highly recommend them, and I have a decent relationship with Len. Keep in mind his pan does not have a level sender provision either, race pans don't need it. You can't go wrong with either system (mine or his)
3. O-rings on oil pans are a great idea for piston engines, where the mounting flange is machined flat. Rotary engines have steps to them, and some of my competitors have switched away from the o-ring design because it is not a fail-safe sealing option on the imperfect surface of the rotary engine. Silicone is the most secure seal.
4. 6061-T6 aluminum cracks, 5052 bends. The mounting flange and bottom fin plate are made of 1/4" thick 6061, the walls are 1/8" 5052. This makes the pan incredibly strong (tested to 20,000 pounds of static vertical load, upper yield limit not reached, no signs of fatigue or cracking) and not brittle. No tin can construction here.
5. We have low profile oil pans for folks that like to slam their car on the ground and still protect their engine.
6. Our pricing I think is reasonable for a 100% made in USA product. All similar systems made in America are priced around the same ballpark, and no one else includes stainless hardware, magnetic drain plugs, etc. with their systems.
Note to admins: not trying to advertise my product, just saw some false information and wanted to clear things up. I believe the inquiring party went with a brace anyway.
Last edited by njhns92; Sep 8, 2018 at 07:06 PM.
I agree with the owner here. Oil level senor makes sense on street cars, but the threads of people who track their cars have documented oil going up the dipstick tube on all occasions. I would consider baffling more important than oil escaping into your engine bay.
I don’t know the difference between between the Len bacon pan and B2A pans, but Len is a prominent drag racer and B2A seems to cater the road race a drift guys. If neither interests you then going with a brace may be perfect for you.
I don’t know the difference between between the Len bacon pan and B2A pans, but Len is a prominent drag racer and B2A seems to cater the road race a drift guys. If neither interests you then going with a brace may be perfect for you.
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From: South Orange County, CA
Some nice products on the B2A site, and the options for upgraded pans to suit a customer's needs is a plus.
Wondering how you deal with the extra 1/4" height on the mounts. Does everyone who installs a aluminum pan use aftermarket engine mounts that are shorter to compensate?
Wondering how you deal with the extra 1/4" height on the mounts. Does everyone who installs a aluminum pan use aftermarket engine mounts that are shorter to compensate?
Some nice products on the B2A site, and the options for upgraded pans to suit a customer's needs is a plus.
Wondering how you deal with the extra 1/4" height on the mounts. Does everyone who installs a aluminum pan use aftermarket engine mounts that are shorter to compensate?
Wondering how you deal with the extra 1/4" height on the mounts. Does everyone who installs a aluminum pan use aftermarket engine mounts that are shorter to compensate?
1/4" isn't a large change in thickness, in a practical sense it's negligible, especially since the pan is surfaced on the CNC after welding, the rear of the pan is closer to 0.200".
I agree with the owner here. Oil level senor makes sense on street cars, but the threads of people who track their cars have documented oil going up the dipstick tube on all occasions. I would consider baffling more important than oil escaping into your engine bay.
I don’t know the difference between between the Len bacon pan and B2A pans, but Len is a prominent drag racer and B2A seems to cater the road race a drift guys. If neither interests you then going with a brace may be perfect for you.
I don’t know the difference between between the Len bacon pan and B2A pans, but Len is a prominent drag racer and B2A seems to cater the road race a drift guys. If neither interests you then going with a brace may be perfect for you.
Sorry to jump in late to this thread, I'm the owner of Built 2 Apex, figured I'd throw in a couple things to consider since some details were missed.
1. Race pans don't need a level sensor, because it gets in the way of what's much more important: the baffling system. I was not going to compromise a good baffling system to put a sensor in that has a high failure rate. Now for customers who insist on the level sensor, we can add that in for no extra charge, it's just an option we recommend against because it does get in the way of the lateral baffling.
2. The Winchester/Bacon unit is a great pan to go with, I highly recommend them, and I have a decent relationship with Len. Keep in mind his pan does not have a level sender provision either, race pans don't need it. You can't go wrong with either system (mine or his)
3. O-rings on oil pans are a great idea for piston engines, where the mounting flange is machined flat. Rotary engines have steps to them, and some of my competitors have switched away from the o-ring design because it is not a fail-safe sealing option on the imperfect surface of the rotary engine. Silicone is the most secure seal.
4. 6061-T6 aluminum cracks, 5052 bends. The mounting flange and bottom fin plate are made of 1/4" thick 6061, the walls are 1/8" 5052. This makes the pan incredibly strong (tested to 20,000 pounds of static vertical load, upper yield limit not reached, no signs of fatigue or cracking) and not brittle. No tin can construction here.
5. We have low profile oil pans for folks that like to slam their car on the ground and still protect their engine.
6. Our pricing I think is reasonable for a 100% made in USA product. All similar systems made in America are priced around the same ballpark, and no one else includes stainless hardware, magnetic drain plugs, etc. with their systems.
Note to admins: not trying to advertise my product, just saw some false information and wanted to clear things up. I believe the inquiring party went with a brace anyway.
1. Race pans don't need a level sensor, because it gets in the way of what's much more important: the baffling system. I was not going to compromise a good baffling system to put a sensor in that has a high failure rate. Now for customers who insist on the level sensor, we can add that in for no extra charge, it's just an option we recommend against because it does get in the way of the lateral baffling.
2. The Winchester/Bacon unit is a great pan to go with, I highly recommend them, and I have a decent relationship with Len. Keep in mind his pan does not have a level sender provision either, race pans don't need it. You can't go wrong with either system (mine or his)
3. O-rings on oil pans are a great idea for piston engines, where the mounting flange is machined flat. Rotary engines have steps to them, and some of my competitors have switched away from the o-ring design because it is not a fail-safe sealing option on the imperfect surface of the rotary engine. Silicone is the most secure seal.
4. 6061-T6 aluminum cracks, 5052 bends. The mounting flange and bottom fin plate are made of 1/4" thick 6061, the walls are 1/8" 5052. This makes the pan incredibly strong (tested to 20,000 pounds of static vertical load, upper yield limit not reached, no signs of fatigue or cracking) and not brittle. No tin can construction here.
5. We have low profile oil pans for folks that like to slam their car on the ground and still protect their engine.
6. Our pricing I think is reasonable for a 100% made in USA product. All similar systems made in America are priced around the same ballpark, and no one else includes stainless hardware, magnetic drain plugs, etc. with their systems.
Note to admins: not trying to advertise my product, just saw some false information and wanted to clear things up. I believe the inquiring party went with a brace anyway.
Super late reply, but long story short i ended up going with a brace and oem pan. Looking back i kind of wish i would have just contacted you about the pan... BUT the build is far from over i still have time to switch things up, which i might do.
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