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Sorry guys. All the searches I have done usually show a T for both wastegate actuators or I just plain do not understand.
From what I do understand (unless I am totally off) it is much more simple than all the diagrams I see out there. The problem is me trying to put the diagrams with the actual turbo pics themselves.
Always a pain with these kind of pics I know.
Red should be from boost source to "lower" actuator. The yellow goes to the next "upper" actuator. (Lower meaning the closest to the ground looking from above).
COM connects to the "lower" actuator.
NO connects to boost source.
So we are just "splicing" this in between the boost source and the lower actuator?
Then the electrical connection just plugs into the wastegate controller? Which is one side of the green dual.
Am I even in the same ballpark?
I am not sure how else to look at this. I have lost my instruction pages from my turbos. I will be aggravating RX7.com today for another copy
I want to tackle this in the next couple days why I wait for my fuel filter and map sensor filter.
You want the Version 2 in the picture. I've run my AVC-R for years like this, works beautifully.
In your picture I only see 1 of the actuators, you should have 2. If you only have 1 your car could be non-sequential.
Dale
Thanks Dale. I will check out the link.
I have 2.
I actually made a mistake in the pic anyway I think. The upper is the Waste gate controller and the lower is the pre control.
I will not mess with the pre controller at all.
There are 2 inputs coming off the compressor housing. T those together and run those to the NO port on the Apexi solenoid.
There are 2 actuators (wastegate and precontrol) - take the 2 nipples that point up and T them together, run that to the COM port on the Apexi solenoid.
The 2 nipples on the 2 actuators pointing to the right go to the factory boost control solenoids. Remove that hose and cap those nipples up.
You want to let the boost controller run both the WG and PC. Been doing it for years on my car, works awesome and I have rock solid boost control.
You want to use all new hoses here, get 6mm silicone vacuum hose from boost controller.com if you don't already have some. Cheap rubber hose can crack and split and if that hose fails you overboost. That can pop an engine.
This will be controlled via the PFC. If it isn't good enough I will get an external controller.
I thought with the PFC it would be better left the way I showed in diagram. Cap off the other nipple and I can leave the factory controller line just "vent".
Also I got 1/4 reinforced fuel line with screw clamps for the hose. Is that too "old school"racer? I will be running the hose a tad longer so I thought something stronger than silicone and "more flow" might be appropriate.?
Factory uses some sort of high-temp rubber, not sure what.
You can try leaving PC on the factory solenoid and see how that works. I didn't realize you were using the PFC for boost control, I was thinking you were using an AVC-R. It's not hard to re-plumb things if necessary.
I've run good quality silicone hose on my car and friend's cars for the boost control for ages, have had zero failures. You may also want to read up on other people using the PFC for boost control, I haven't personally done much with using an aftermarket solenoid with the PFC. I'm thinking you may have to remove the restrictor pill and it looks like you have later turbos, they probably have the pills built into the little elbow in the compressor housing.
Factory uses some sort of high-temp rubber, not sure what.
You can try leaving PC on the factory solenoid and see how that works. I didn't realize you were using the PFC for boost control, I was thinking you were using an AVC-R. It's not hard to re-plumb things if necessary.
I've run good quality silicone hose on my car and friend's cars for the boost control for ages, have had zero failures. You may also want to read up on other people using the PFC for boost control, I haven't personally done much with using an aftermarket solenoid with the PFC. I'm thinking you may have to remove the restrictor pill and it looks like you have later turbos, they probably have the pills built into the little elbow in the compressor housing.
Dale
Your the man Dale thx for the input. Do you see any danger in the way I will try? I think there shouldn't be any issue. If the plumbing is a go then I just have to see which one is the WG solenoid to plug into lol.
I will let you know how it works out. I just want to be safe.
I just saw I never hit buy on the fuel hose and realized I have a lot of what appears to be 6mm Hose Techniques silicone hose left. I will order some clamps and go with that I guess. We are all sure the good old silicone is ok with the heat around the actuators?
Yep silicone hose does great - as stated, my car has run like that for 12+ years with zero problems and I've set it up on many other cars.
Silicone hose does awesome with heat, it will not degrade or harden or crack. The only time I've seen it fail from heat was it resting against a downpipe or turbine housing, it can't take THAT kind of heat.
Some of the old boost controller threads said leaving the PC with the ECU could result in weird transitions, I don't know if it would be high or low. Just take your time with it and keep an eye on your boost gauge, you'll be fine.
