Another 300hp Reliable FD thread
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Black Hills, SD
...The goal is RELIABILITY and SAFETY, hp is just a bonus. This car has alot of sentimental value. I'd prefer to keep it in nice condition and safe (ie no under hood fires)
Here are the parts I have already bought (not yet installed) for 93 RX7 touring that is all stock. I want to make sure all parts installed are reversible...I refuse to cut/permanently modify the car. Alot of these parts are to increase reliability/safety and reduce under hood heat. 300 hp would be nice but if its even close I'd be happy. Like I said, I'm much more concerned about reliability than hp.
-Bonez downpipe
-Apexi PFC
-Complete engine vacuum hose kit silicone
-Replacement fdp (rx7.com)
-Aluminum AST
-Fluidyne radiator, new OEM rad hoses, 180 Thermostat, 185 fan switch
-Optima Battery
-K&N filter instide stock airbox (will do adam c mod)
-Greddy Profec B Electronic boost controller
-Efini Y-pipe kit
-Petit racing upraged BOV
-Pettit silicone boost hose kit
-cool mist meth/water injection kit
-All new fluids/tuneup of course (plugs/wires/coolant/oils/ect...)
-Idemitsu rotary premix in the fuel to suppliment the factory OMP
A few things I still need to decide on
-52mm gauges (boost, water temp, oil pressure), can't decide on a company....thinking Defi
-Is stock fuel pump and injectors good for what my upgrades are?
-SMIC, keep stock and run water injection or get a replacment SMIC (rotary performance or Greddy)
-Racing beat catback and bonez resonated midpipe (can't decide if I just want to do the downpipe and keep the rest of the exhaust stock)
-want a fire extinguisher (thinking Sake Bomb) bracket and extinguisher for added insurance should I need it.
-I love the concept of water injection but I'm not crazy about having to worry about keeping fluid for it (one more thing to worry about). It wouldn't be such a big deal if the rx7 had more storage space but as you all know its tight enough in the car as it is for storage space.
Comments/suggestions?
Thanks for any and all help or criticism.
Here are the parts I have already bought (not yet installed) for 93 RX7 touring that is all stock. I want to make sure all parts installed are reversible...I refuse to cut/permanently modify the car. Alot of these parts are to increase reliability/safety and reduce under hood heat. 300 hp would be nice but if its even close I'd be happy. Like I said, I'm much more concerned about reliability than hp.
-Bonez downpipe
-Apexi PFC
-Complete engine vacuum hose kit silicone
-Replacement fdp (rx7.com)
-Aluminum AST
-Fluidyne radiator, new OEM rad hoses, 180 Thermostat, 185 fan switch
-Optima Battery
-K&N filter instide stock airbox (will do adam c mod)
-Greddy Profec B Electronic boost controller
-Efini Y-pipe kit
-Petit racing upraged BOV
-Pettit silicone boost hose kit
-cool mist meth/water injection kit
-All new fluids/tuneup of course (plugs/wires/coolant/oils/ect...)
-Idemitsu rotary premix in the fuel to suppliment the factory OMP
A few things I still need to decide on
-52mm gauges (boost, water temp, oil pressure), can't decide on a company....thinking Defi
-Is stock fuel pump and injectors good for what my upgrades are?
-SMIC, keep stock and run water injection or get a replacment SMIC (rotary performance or Greddy)
-Racing beat catback and bonez resonated midpipe (can't decide if I just want to do the downpipe and keep the rest of the exhaust stock)
-want a fire extinguisher (thinking Sake Bomb) bracket and extinguisher for added insurance should I need it.
-I love the concept of water injection but I'm not crazy about having to worry about keeping fluid for it (one more thing to worry about). It wouldn't be such a big deal if the rx7 had more storage space but as you all know its tight enough in the car as it is for storage space.
Comments/suggestions?
Thanks for any and all help or criticism.
Never had my car on a dyno, but based on other's educated guesses and pretty much confirmed by Banzai Racing's recent thread with power data involving bolt-ons I'm probably right at 300 whp....what your goal is. Most mods are listed in my signature, but I also have a Bonez hi-flow cat and a RB dual cat-back. Note that I do have Water Injection. IMO if you're looking for "RELIABILITY and SAFTEY, then WI is a no brainer. And it can be simple, reliable, inexpensive and low-key with no worry about keeping things full. See here ---> https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...ion-fd-959565/ (photos added back on at the end) Stock ignition and plug heat-ranges. No break-up...ever. Eliminated temp spiking after periods of boost (good for a bi-metal engine block and our coolant seals) and knock suppression too.
BTW, since WI removes a lot of the concern for carbon build-up, I also premix at a reduced rate WITH a working OMP.
As for gauges, I have the PFC and do monitor things on the commander. If you intend to rely on it heavily though, I'd get the OLED Commander...WAY easier to read. I'm old and also reassured somehow by my analogue temp DEFI 'D' series temp and boost gauges. They're font and backlight color are VERY close to the stock gauges in appearance and backlight color. The 'D' Series was discontinued but IIRC their Sport series is pretty much the same. For the money I think they're reasonably accurate and mine have been dead reliable for the past 10 or 12 years. Since it was mentioned, I also bought a later model NARDI steering wheel from another member here that was PnP, including cruise control function buttons. I love it and wished I'd done it years ago.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Mar 10, 2017 at 09:32 PM.
^Henry's the man ---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...heels-1109520/
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Black Hills, SD
A lot of opinions in the thread presented as fact. I agree with almost all of them. But here's my .02....
Never had my car on a dyno, but based on other's educated guesses and pretty much confirmed by Banzai Racing's recent thread with power data involving bolt-ons I'm probably right at 300 whp....what your goal is. Most mods are listed in my signature, but I also have a Bonez hi-flow cat and a RB dual cat-back. Note that I do have Water Injection. IMO if you're looking for "RELIABILITY and SAFTEY, then WI is a no brainer. And it can be simple, reliable, inexpensive and low-key with no worry about keeping things full. See here ---> https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...ion-fd-959565/ (photos added back on at the end) Stock ignition and plug heat-ranges. No break-up...ever. Eliminated temp spiking after periods of boost (good for a bi-metal engine block and our coolant seals) and knock suppression too.
BTW, since WI removes a lot of the concern for carbon build-up, I also premix at a reduced rate WITH a working OMP.
As for gauges, I have the PFC and do monitor things on the commander. If you intend to rely on it heavily though, I'd get the OLED Commander...WAY easier to read. I'm old and also reassured somehow by my analogue temp DEFI 'D' series temp and boost gauges. They're font and backlight color are VERY close to the stock gauges in appearance and backlight color. The 'D' Series was discontinued but IIRC their Sport series is pretty much the same. For the money I think they're reasonably accurate and mine have been dead reliable for the past 10 or 12 years. Since it was mentioned, I also bought a later model NARDI steering wheel from another member here that was PnP, including cruise control function buttons. I love it and wished I'd done it years ago.
Never had my car on a dyno, but based on other's educated guesses and pretty much confirmed by Banzai Racing's recent thread with power data involving bolt-ons I'm probably right at 300 whp....what your goal is. Most mods are listed in my signature, but I also have a Bonez hi-flow cat and a RB dual cat-back. Note that I do have Water Injection. IMO if you're looking for "RELIABILITY and SAFTEY, then WI is a no brainer. And it can be simple, reliable, inexpensive and low-key with no worry about keeping things full. See here ---> https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...ion-fd-959565/ (photos added back on at the end) Stock ignition and plug heat-ranges. No break-up...ever. Eliminated temp spiking after periods of boost (good for a bi-metal engine block and our coolant seals) and knock suppression too.
BTW, since WI removes a lot of the concern for carbon build-up, I also premix at a reduced rate WITH a working OMP.
As for gauges, I have the PFC and do monitor things on the commander. If you intend to rely on it heavily though, I'd get the OLED Commander...WAY easier to read. I'm old and also reassured somehow by my analogue temp DEFI 'D' series temp and boost gauges. They're font and backlight color are VERY close to the stock gauges in appearance and backlight color. The 'D' Series was discontinued but IIRC their Sport series is pretty much the same. For the money I think they're reasonably accurate and mine have been dead reliable for the past 10 or 12 years. Since it was mentioned, I also bought a later model NARDI steering wheel from another member here that was PnP, including cruise control function buttons. I love it and wished I'd done it years ago.
Although it looks better with upgraded leather.
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Black Hills, SD
I think they looks alright, a little generic 90s I suppose but not bad. Yours looks good with the accent
I use the stock FRONT washer tank. Holds ~3 liters or so. I have a stock rear washer tank on the shelf and tossed around the idea of 'T'ing' into my existing line for additional capacity. But honestly, it's not been needed. As mentioned in the link, it lasts for 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank of gas...depending on how hard I'm driving. And the float switch lets me know it's getting low.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Black Hills, SD
I have a PFS SMIC and intake 'kit'. The IC is maybe 300% larger than stock but fits nice with the battery. Less pressure drop and IATs are respectable.
I use the stock FRONT washer tank. Holds ~3 liters or so. I have a stock rear washer tank on the shelf and tossed around the idea of 'T'ing' into my existing line for additional capacity. But honestly, it's not been needed. As mentioned in the link, it lasts for 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank of gas...depending on how hard I'm driving. And the float switch lets me know it's getting low.
I use the stock FRONT washer tank. Holds ~3 liters or so. I have a stock rear washer tank on the shelf and tossed around the idea of 'T'ing' into my existing line for additional capacity. But honestly, it's not been needed. As mentioned in the link, it lasts for 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank of gas...depending on how hard I'm driving. And the float switch lets me know it's getting low.
I would like the idea of getting a EU/Canadian spec rear fluid tank that hold....I assume.... 3 liters or so. And to "T" that rear tank to the front tank and having around a gallon and a half of fluid....that should last awhile. Having to refill fluid when you refill fuel isn't bad but the longer range the better in my opinion.
My WI is post-intercooler and my IAT (fast reacting) sensor was relocated upstream of the nozzle. I had done that even before adding WI to avoid heatsoak, and because my sensor failed and had to be changed anyway. But it's also recommended so IAT readings are not influenced by the water. You can see the sensor relative to the nozzle in one of the photos from that earlier link. It's easy. Unplug the IAT connector, solder a length of wire and plug in to a new, relocated sensor.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Mar 11, 2017 at 03:52 PM.
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From: Marine
Even i have almost the same setup but will also be adding an HKS twin power and a Walbro fuel pump, so it will be around 350+ according to Banzai.
That being said i will be upgrading my secondary rail to top feed and will be getting 1600cc injectors.
My question is should i upgrade my stock FPR?
Cuz il be running on stock twins at around 10psi.
That being said i will be upgrading my secondary rail to top feed and will be getting 1600cc injectors.
My question is should i upgrade my stock FPR?
Cuz il be running on stock twins at around 10psi.
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Posts: 336
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From: UK
Even i have almost the same setup but will also be adding an HKS twin power and a Walbro fuel pump, so it will be around 350+ according to Banzai.
That being said i will be upgrading my secondary rail to top feed and will be getting 1600cc injectors.
My question is should i upgrade my stock FPR?
Cuz il be running on stock twins at around 10psi.
That being said i will be upgrading my secondary rail to top feed and will be getting 1600cc injectors.
My question is should i upgrade my stock FPR?
Cuz il be running on stock twins at around 10psi.
This makes no sense at all. You won't achieve 350 with only 10 PSI (you will likely need more than 14 PSI to achieve that), you don't need a new fuel pump other than stock or larger injectors than the 550/850cc setup to achieve 350. You don't need to upgrade to any sort of aftermarket FPR.
Do you just have excess money burning a hole in your pocket?
I do not see Fuel Pulsation Dampener anywhere in your new parts list. That is A#1 atop the list for a car you don't want to light on fire.
Last edited by laujesse; Sep 21, 2017 at 04:52 PM.
This makes no sense at all. You won't achieve 350 with only 10 PSI (you will likely need more than 14 PSI to achieve that), you don't need a new fuel pump other than stock or larger injectors than the 550/850cc setup to achieve 350. You don't need to upgrade to any sort of aftermarket FPR.
Do you just have excess money burning a hole in your pocket?
Do you just have excess money burning a hole in your pocket?
Even i have almost the same setup but will also be adding an HKS twin power and a Walbro fuel pump, so it will be around 350+ according to Banzai.
That being said i will be upgrading my secondary rail to top feed and will be getting 1600cc injectors.
My question is should i upgrade my stock FPR?
Cuz il be running on stock twins at around 10psi.
That being said i will be upgrading my secondary rail to top feed and will be getting 1600cc injectors.
My question is should i upgrade my stock FPR?
Cuz il be running on stock twins at around 10psi.