First off this forum has been a wealth of information for me, This list that I have compiled is a direct result of researching threads on this forum. I did use the search function before anyone jumps on me....I created this thread for two reasons.

1. Some of the information is 10+ years old, while some information is still accurate, technology changes, parts change, quality changes ect....
2. Some of the information I came across was contradicting with other information I ran across. I understand that's going to happen with differing opinions.

So Basically I want to get the experts opinions and make sure I'm on the right track.

The goal is RELIABILITY and SAFETY, hp is just a bonus. This car has alot of sentimental value. I'd prefer to keep it in nice condition and safe (ie no under hood fires)

Here are the parts I have already bought (not yet installed) for 93 RX7 touring that is all stock. I want to make sure all parts installed are reversible...I refuse to cut/permanently modify the car. Alot of these parts are to increase reliability/safety and reduce under hood heat. 300 hp would be nice but if its even close I'd be happy. Like I said, I'm much more concerned about reliability than hp.

-Bonez downpipe
-Apexi PFC
-Complete engine vacuum hose kit silicone
-Replacement fdp (rx7.com)
-Aluminum AST
-Fluidyne radiator, new OEM rad hoses, 180 Thermostat, 185 fan switch
-Optima Battery
-K&N filter instide stock airbox (will do adam c mod)
-Greddy Profec B Electronic boost controller
-Efini Y-pipe kit
-Petit racing upraged BOV
-Pettit silicone boost hose kit
-cool mist meth/water injection kit
-All new fluids/tuneup of course (plugs/wires/coolant/oils/ect...)
-Idemitsu rotary premix in the fuel to suppliment the factory OMP


A few things I still need to decide on
-52mm gauges (boost, water temp, oil pressure), can't decide on a company....thinking Defi
-Is stock fuel pump and injectors good for what my upgrades are?
-SMIC, keep stock and run water injection or get a replacment SMIC (rotary performance or Greddy)
-Racing beat catback and bonez resonated midpipe (can't decide if I just want to do the downpipe and keep the rest of the exhaust stock)
-want a fire extinguisher (thinking Sake Bomb) bracket and extinguisher for added insurance should I need it.
-I love the concept of water injection but I'm not crazy about having to worry about keeping fluid for it (one more thing to worry about). It wouldn't be such a big deal if the rx7 had more storage space but as you all know its tight enough in the car as it is for storage space.

Comments/suggestions?

Thanks for any and all help or criticism.

 

You dont need the boost controller. PFC will handle that.
You dont need the Pettit BOV. Waste of money.
You dont need to premix.
Dont get a midpipe. Your car will be too loud, and it will stink. You can easily get 300 rwhp without it.

Get some gauges. Pick the ones you like. Check out VDO. They work well, and are affordable.
Upgrade secondary injectors. 300 rwph will put stock injectors near the limit.
Upgrade to supra fuel pump. Stock fuel pump near limit at 300 rwhp.
Get larger smic, so you wont need water injection.

The rest of your list looks good.

Good luck

 

Adam C nailed it pretty good.

Think about some R1 oil coolers too, they help a lot with overall temps.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm actually going to modify my air box as per the same way you did. I really liked your idea.

so keep stock Cat and just get a catback or just keep all stock exhaust behind the downpipe?

Do you have any suggestions for secondary injectors?

Shoot, I will have to see if I can return the BOV kit. I thought I had read that the stock BOV were prone to failure.

I will put the Supra pump on the order list

Is this sufficent enough for an smic so I don't have to run injection? I really want to stay with a smic becuase I don't want to get rid of my airbox or relocate my battery.

https://rotaryperformance.com/collec...rp-intercooler

Thanks!

 

I will put them on the order list.

little bit more spendy than I thought. Is this the best kit?

http://shop.pettitracing.com/dual-oi...-p-120148.html

 

Similar goals, but track focused which emphasizes cooling (don't need large dual oil coolers on a street car). I made 289 rwhp on stock twins with a hiflo cat (it's not a dedicated track car, so I still have to pass emissions). Build does include an aggressive street port tho.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12123275

 

As Adam stated 300hp is not much and you should get there rather easily. What does that equate to 270RWHP?

anyway- for your power goals a HI-Flow cat will work. I personally prefer resonated MP's but that's me. Call me a ricer but I like them fireballs!

 

Thanks for the info,

I do get that the pfc can tell me what the gauges can, fair points on the boost/oil pressure gauges. however I feel like If you are running down the road and the car starts to overheat you have more time with a (accurate) temp gauge rather than always have to check the pfc commander. I have heard lots of complaints about the stock temp gauge. Seems to warn you after its too late.

So you really only have to start worrying about fuel pump/injector upgrades if you go above stock boost levels even though hp output is increasing?

"All this about Bonez" was just a name I was throwing out there since I already have a bonez downpipe. I'm glad you like your Racing Beat exhaust, Its one of the few catbacks I really like the sound of. I'm not a fan of high pitched annoyingly loud exhaust. I like the deeper beat of the RB that I've heard from youtube research.

Yea, I'm kind of on the fence about WI anyway....might just go with the upgraded smic route and leave it at that.

Thanks

 

Awesome, I actually read through your thread a few days ago to read about your WI install. Cool build

 

Good list by Adam but what...

300rwhp will not be the limit of stock injectors or the stock fuel pump (even if you leave it alone and don't hotwire it). No need to waste money upgrading that if you aren't shooting for more like >350whp so long as your stuff is in good order. And for people running modest power I don't know of any normal case where a stock fuel pump or stock injectors failed.

 

This is just an FYI as you may not know:
The PFC commander can be mounted so all you do is glance on over like you would with any gauge. Personally, mine sits on a cell phone holder that plugs into the cigarrette lighter.

But again that's just an FYI and not trying to change your mind about gauges.


Yes and even then you can stay stock even if you up the boost by a couple of lbs.

With regards to A/F ratio:
if you are not messing with the air part of the equation (not upping the boost, nor changing out to aftermarket turbos) why would there be a necessity to change the fuel part of it? If you are unsure about it, the PFC commander also displays injector duty cycle. As a rule of thumb, anything below 85% while WOT is considered safe. Keep in mind that if you have an high injector duty cycle at stock boost something is faulty.

 

300 engine hp is about 255 at the wheels. Drivetrain and tranny takes away around 15%. I understood the OP to be looking for 300 rwhp, but I may have been mistaken after looking again. Maybe OP should clear that up

 

No I didn't realize you could "display gauges" on the commander. I haven't played with it at all yet. Thanks for that tip, might hold off on the gauges all together for now then.

Yes, for now I would like to stay with a nice conservative stock boost levels. If that's the case then better yet and I can leave my stock fuel system alone. I'm going to write down the injector duty cycle info down for my records, thanks for that too.

 

You are right I should've specified.

the closer to 300rwhp the better but honestly rather than shooting for a specific hp number, I just want to do all these things to make the engine/car happy and if I can even get remotely close the the 300rwhp mark is just a bonus.

I think (initially anyway) I will stick to stockish boost levels. 10-11lbs just to keep things simple/reliable.

 

I'm in the exact same boat only difference is right now I have BNRs and a used ARC smic I bought off another member. My power goal is essentially "whatever" as long as it doesn't blow up. Was wondering what you guys thought of adaptronic modular vs PFC. I know PFC is cheaper but other than price concerns what do you guys think?

 

Something I forgot to mention in the original post. I live in western south dakota. I have called every dyno shop around and there is only one who has ever tuned a rotary....and he has only done a couple. I'm not totally comfortable him still learning on my car.

Am I going to have to trailer the car all the way to Denver to get it tuned after installing upgrades? PITA to have to go so far just to get the car tuned, then having to go back every time I make a change. Downside of having an exotic engine design I suppose.

 

This is what the monitor screen looks like:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...ander-pfc3.jpg
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gGQhmIhhlGk/maxresdefault.jpg
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...1227001727.jpg

You can set it to display 2, 4, & 8 parameters at the same time (I forget if you can do more). Currently I only look at AIT's, H20, injector duty cycle, and for fun I check out knock.

 

The concensus is to go with whatever ECU your tuner is more comfortable with.

 

Awesome, That's what I will do.

Minor question, can you switch the readouts from Celsius to Fahrenheit?

I wonder if anyone has ever taken apart the commander and mounted the screen/controls in dash/console so you don't have the bulky commander taking up more precious space in the interior.

 

Unfortunately you can't but I am comfortable with Celsius so that doesn't bug me. However the boost reads in kg/cm2 and not in psi, so I use my EBC for boost readout.

yep. But most don't want open it up including myself. There are some threads on here where people with some real fab skills did an amazing job in incorporating the commander into their console. Way beyond my skills.

check out this link:
Power FC Install

as a reference this is exactly how mine is mounted. Cheap and easy as I didnt have to open anything up:

 

I hope you got rid of that ugly steering wheel

 

Whaaaat? I thought the school bus steering wheel is what all the cool kids are sporting these days....

Actually I did get rid of it and that's not my car BTW

 

you ricer boys, always replacing perfectly good parts. Throwing body kits on cars that look perfect from the factory. Haha

Not a fan of aftermarket steering wheels either

 

I haven't installed my pfc yet but when I was looking at tuning options it was suggested to get a second 02 bung for a wideband. Might want to have that done before installing your downpipe incase your tuner wants you to have it. I'm sure there is an ideal location to have it installed hopefully someone on here has some insight.

 

The stock 93-95 wheel is ugly as sin. Everyone should at least upgrade to the newer model ones.

To each his own about the aftermarket wheels.