Alternate jack stand locations?
07-12-18, 07:50 PM
#1
Alternate jack stand locations?
My project FD came with Vielside side skirts that get in the way of the “factory” points for jack stands. I can’t take the skirts off because there is a screw that is holding it in place that needs to come off but I can’t take if off without getting the rear wheel off. Getting the rear wheel off is a whole other challenge since I don’t have the key for the wheel locks.
What are some safe alternate locations for putting jack stands?
What are some safe alternate locations for putting jack stands?
07-13-18, 03:34 AM
#2
There really isn't any alternative that I can think of. The front crossmember....maybe. But it will require the stands to be pretty close together. Intuitively I wouldn't want to use the rear crossmember and since the suspension arms are cast aluminum, those are out. In any event the car won't be nearly as stable as using the pinch-welds.
07-13-18, 05:29 AM
#3
Yeah, there are absolutely other places to safely place axle stands, see this thread for some pointers.
I've had to literally cut the sills off FD's before from the damage caused by jacks and axle stands. All those .9mm fragile steel skins coming together with spot welds is just a recipe for causing rust after being jacked a few times and bent off true (Granted, rust is much more of an issue in the UK!). Personally, I'd never use the pinch welds for anything other than an emergency tyre change when out. And I'm trying to come up with a better solution for that!
I've had to literally cut the sills off FD's before from the damage caused by jacks and axle stands. All those .9mm fragile steel skins coming together with spot welds is just a recipe for causing rust after being jacked a few times and bent off true (Granted, rust is much more of an issue in the UK!). Personally, I'd never use the pinch welds for anything other than an emergency tyre change when out. And I'm trying to come up with a better solution for that!
Last edited by Ceylon; 07-13-18 at 05:47 AM.
07-13-18, 06:51 AM
#4
^Those locations you pictured in post #8 of that link are probably the only choices left to the OP. That said they’re far from the ideal IMO. I’d caution the OP not to use the crossmembers if going under the car. I’ve investigated such accidents in my previous life. Your eyes really do bulge out like a cartoon character...but it’s not comedy.
07-13-18, 11:42 AM
#5
bottom of the rear differential is a great spot to lift up the back of the car. As for jack stand locations, as noted some use the subframe and I've done it in a pinch without issue, but seems much more stable/comfortable when the stands are out by the pinch welds.
07-13-18, 12:12 PM
#6
Thanks, Fellas. I think with some PB Blaster, I can work that hard to reach screw off with ratchet and small screw bit. If I do that, based on the other thread referenced above, I should jack at the rear diff and front sub frame and then put the jack stands on the pinch points indicated in the service manual. The only confusing thing in the other thread was the mention of small vs. large jack stands with the small being not idea. What defines small jack stands?
07-14-18, 06:36 AM
#7
I've got a couple sets of each. IIRC the larger are something like 6 ton rated. The smaller are 3 ton. Either is plenty strong for the FD. The larger have a wider base, but the biggest difference will be in the height with the larger have a lot higher reach. Handy if you want to get under something like the FD on a creeper. And absolutely required for a higher vehicle like my 4x4 truck.
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07-14-18, 09:44 AM
#8
If I'm working under the car without the wheels on, I’ll put the wheels under the car for added insurance.
Also, don’t lift/support under the rear subframe at the I arms. In addition to being less sturdy, It’s stamped steel and will easily crush and potentially bind your I arms
07-16-18, 08:06 AM
#10
I've jacked from the front subframe by using a large piece of wood to spread the load, also put stands under there without an issue. I have some hockey pucks that I cut slots into to jack from the pinch welds. I have jacked from the subframe where the lower arms connect (note, not the lower arms themselves but the frame taking the load), again using wood. Once the car is up in the air and I plan on keeping it there for a while I'll use big wooden sleepers under the chassis legs, depending on access.
07-16-18, 10:35 AM
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Check out the Super Now rear jack wall, pinch weld jack points, and front member jack collars:
https://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-r...wall-fd3s.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-f...llar-fd3s.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-j...et-orange.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-r...wall-fd3s.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-f...llar-fd3s.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-j...et-orange.html
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