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Looking for a little advice. Been around the 90's Japanese cars just about 20 years now and looking to buy my first FD RX-7. Car has 87k miles and is all original silver exterior, black interior. Problem is the car has been sitting in storage over 14 years. Lots of dings around the fenders, some paint scratches, had new tires when parked, but flat and look pretty bad. Tried to start the car and it would turn over, but not start. Figure the fuel pump is bad because it was not buzzing at all in the tank. Could hear compression during cranking.
lots of oil on the ground under the car and obvious signs of leaking.
Main question is what would you think this is worth? Looking to make an offer.
First time here so apologize if this is in the wrong section.
Looking for a little advice. Been around the 90's Japanese cars just about 20 years now and looking to buy my first FD RX-7. Car has 87k miles and is all original silver exterior, black interior. Problem is the car has been sitting in storage over 14 years. Lots of dings around the fenders, some paint scratches, had new tires when parked, but flat and look pretty bad. Tried to start the car and it would turn over, but not start. Figure the fuel pump is bad because it was not buzzing at all in the tank. Could hear compression during cranking.
lots of oil on the ground under the car and obvious signs of leaking.
Main question is what would you think this is worth? Looking to make an offer.
First time here so apologize if this is in the wrong section.
There was a post by tomsn16 that broke down what he thinks the price breakdown for an FD should be, and I completely agreed with it. If someone has a link to the post, would be appropriate to post it here I think.
As many forum users say, the drivetrain stuff is probably the "cheaper" thing to fix. Interior, and exterior can get pricey. Iirc interior prices, especially in black go up to 10-15K, exterior bodywork+paint 7-10K. Depending if you just want an engine, you can buy a new keg for 5K, and add another 1-2K for labor, unless you do it on your own to install/remove old motor.
If I were to look for an FD again, which I will couple years down the road and/or an opportunity strikes, I'll look for a relatively mid-low mileage stock or OEM+ build that is very clean.
It's worth good money if you can get it 100% again.
I can guarantee the gas tank is FULL of rust and the brakes are probably rusted solid as well.
Engine may or may not be good too. Sitting that long you may have a lot of corrosion in the coolant passages. Also many times when FD's are parked and left it's because the engine blew up.
Let them throw out the first price. They may not know what the current market is like and be willing to sell for a sane deal. It's going to need a LOT of love to get back on the road, but it could be worth some good money.
If you get into it start a thread and we can help out.
There was a post by tomsn16 that broke down what he thinks the price breakdown for an FD should be, and I completely agreed with it. If someone has a link to the post, would be appropriate to post it here I think.
Originally Posted by tomsn16
FOR WHAT IT"S WORTH Here's my current valuation guide for _"need nothing".. LHD FD's...ciean title '93..........94 $10K $15K.........interior $20k $20K.........exterior $15K $15K........drivetrain $45K $50K........total.
$60k $70K Mint (under 30k miles, 5spd, hardtop, black interior)
Don't worry...I'm at work with nothing better to do at the moment.
Really appreciate all the replies on this. I have a few pictures of the car that I took. As pointed out, the brakes were clearly rusted, but didn't try to move the car at all. Front passengers fender has a lot of dings in it along with about a 12" long dent in the passengers door. Everything is there and in one piece. Lots of little scratches throughout the exterior and the exhaust underneath is about done for. I would put the interior at about a 6-7 out of 10 for condition with considerable wear in the drivers seat, some broken vents and door pieces, but 95% complete. The drivers door exterior handle may have broke while we were there looking at it. Opened once then wouldn't work again. Engine is completely stock and they said the turbos were rebuilt albeit 14 years ago, however I did look through as many vacuum lines as I could get to and they were clearly done and in good condition. I'm torn, because I was told they wanted $20K as it sits, but I know now I'll be into it another $10-15K to make a good driver with what I have seen. I guess it just depends on how much I can actually pick it up for. Also torn because I come from the Nissan Z community and those can still be had mid $20K price range. Anyway, looks like a great community here and there really is no sound like the rotary which is what's bringing me to these.
IMO you cannot spend too much time on the fence about whether or not you're gna buy a car because you'll end up 2nd guess yourself no matter what decision you make. Do it or don't and don't look back...simple as that.
I will say if you ever have any desire whatsoever to own a FD, now is your chance. To me, you don't seem like you're in love with the platform; and I don't say that with any malicious intent, I'm just reading between the lines. If nobody has mentioned it to you, you are going to be working on this car A LOT...especially the example you've found. Every single inch of this car is going to have your blood, sweat, and tears on it (and shredded up remnants of your bank account). You're gna spend hours, days, and even weeks researching problems that proceed to kick your ***. You'll spend more money than you intended on simple things...find out important parts you need are no longer available...even get emotionally angry with the car. But when you turn that key and it starts up, none of that even matters. Listening to the engine spin, shifting through the gears, giving it more gas and feeling the wind go through your hair...you're afraid to blink or even breathe because you might miss something. Experiencing all the sensations, how smooth it is, nothing can compare....and then it breaks. That whole process starts all over again, to continue chasing that feeling. When I first got my car, it wasn't unheard of for me to be up til 4 am working on it (mostly because I didn't know what I was doing, but I digress) and my friends can vouch. I got addicted to the sound. The feeling. The challenge. My love for the rotary and my desire to prove to myself that I could do it, and I did..(or am doing it?).
$20k is a decent price (cheaper would be a better price, but I digress). There is no Z that compares to the FD (okay, obviously a running Z is better than a non-running FD ) ...and I like them (somewhat); I just helped a friend of mine buy a 350Z a lil over a month ago. And yes, you're gna work on that car a lot less (and you can get one for a lot cheaper than mid $20s), but at the end of the day you have to ask yourself are you willing to commit your time and money to something that is going to demand greatness from you? The FD is really gna test your patience and resilience in it's current state. The Z will be cheaper in the long run so it's probably the smarted decision, but I'm not your financial advisor. If I was, I wouldn't have 2 rotary powered cars. SO worth it though, nothing more rewarding.
That's kind of the situation I'm wondering if I want to get myself into. I am very well versed in working on cars and have done all my own work for over 20 years including just finishing up a build and tune on my buddies old GSX Eclipse. I came from the Nissan Z31 and Z32 platforms, skipped the Z33 etc, but may go with the new Z considering the price range these are approaching. It's like you said, I'm on the fence and couldn't bring myself to pay $20k even though reasonable the way these cars are heading and likely answered my own questions about value of these cars. I do and have always loved the look and sound, but will probably just admire from afar like always. Again, thanks for the insight.
That's kind of the situation I'm wondering if I want to get myself into. I am very well versed in working on cars and have done all my own work for over 20 years including just finishing up a build and tune on my buddies old GSX Eclipse. I came from the Nissan Z31 and Z32 platforms, skipped the Z33 etc, but may go with the new Z considering the price range these are approaching. It's like you said, I'm on the fence and couldn't bring myself to pay $20k even though reasonable the way these cars are heading and likely answered my own questions about value of these cars. I do and have always loved the look and sound, but will probably just admire from afar like always. Again, thanks for the insight.
I can respect that. Knowing what you are and are not willing to deal with is half the battle in life.
Really the body looks good, those dents are relatively minor and to be expected in a car that sat for years in a garage.
Probably on the low side looking at $5-8k to have a running driving car.
- Engine is probably bad, people don't just park a car that runs perfectly. New Mazda short block, $5000
- Will need a gas tank, $800 probably all-in with pump and sender
- Brake discs and pads, $300. Maybe replace or rebuild calipers.
- Some sort of exhaust, $300-800
- Tires $500
- Various engine externals - hoses, gaskets, maybe a radiator, etc. etc. when you do the engine, $500
- Door handle $100
Having that in hand you can use that to negotiate the price, and that's irrespective of the interior and paint/body work it might need.
I think $10-15k is a much more reasonable price, but then again FD prices are insano right now. I would stress this car needs deep focused attention and lots of parts to get RUNNING and DRIVING again, not perfect, just a car that goes. A lot of that damage is from time from it sitting so long.
But, that would be a SUPER fun project. I basically restored my RX-8 daily driver that sat with a blown motor under an oak tree for a year. Had SO much fun doing that.
the Undercoating is still there all the way around, which points to the body panels being original. this is good. however since you can see the line so well its possible that there has been some paintwork.
i think the paint would clean up and look pretty good, and the PDR would fix most of the dents.
i see the seat belt strap on the seat is pretty faded, it likely has not sat indoors the whole time.
the molding around the windshield is aftermarket, so the glass has probably been changed
100% agreed with Dale, cars get parked for a reason, and you'll find out what it is when you try and get it running. usually with an Rx7 people blame the engine, but its usually something else.
Whole heartedly agree with what you have posted here. I would feel comfortable at $15k and great getting it at $10K. I have the space and some time to put into this project (kids are still elementary school), just depends on the purchase price and motivation with a ton of other motorsports hobbies. Already have a 15' 335i xdrive, snowmobiles etc., friends cars and then of course possibly getting another 90's TT Z which is my first love. But, there's always been a love for these cars over the years as many friends in our group has had them from time to time.
Indeed, what FD’s are going for, and seeing the condition of the car in these pics, if you pick it up for possibly 13-15g’s US, you would be ahead of the game.
However, to make it a driveable fun vehicle again.. brace yourself.
Comparing it to what I currently have, I can easily spend another 15-25g’sUS to get it to where I think is a “pristine” vehicle.
To get it to the same level my current car is though.. with the price of rare items that are practically impossible to find now, the skies the limit. Lol
There in lies everyone’s dilemma. Do I continue to spend money on this vehicle when I can jump into *insert modern sports vehicle*?
All things aside though, this example isn’t all that bad. Some TLC and she can be purring once again.
its not an FD, but Jim Downing sold one of the ex-factory Daytona Rx3's last week.
1978 was the year that the beach sand got in the engines and ruined them, so they didn't win. it did pave the way for the Rx7's the next year to finish 1.2 in the GTU Class
With the mileage, needing a $10k paint job, $7-10K engine/fuel tank, $2k tires/brakes and an end value around $35-40K in the current market, I would have to buy it around $10k for it to be a good buy to me. If you plan to keep the car for years and years then anything around $20k or less is a decent deal.
Well to follow up on this thread, I did end up purchasing the car back in September 2022. I posted over in the introduce yourself thread since I am now officially an FD owner. Amazingly enough I was able to put a fuel pump in the car and it started. There was absolutely no rust in the gas tank, all the brakes worked perfectly and I was able to take it down to get it emissions inspected driving under it's own power and it passed.
Now the bad. While getting emission inspected we could smell fuel coming from the engine bay so I have now torn apart the entire top end and rebuilt all the fuel system, but have gone down the rabbit hole with reliability mods. Replacing all the coolant hoses, radiator, changing the coolant fan switch and I'm opting to remove some of the emissions components since I won't need them next year. Also replacing all the fluids, brake lines, brake pads, rotors etc, such that I can try to enjoy the car a little during the summer. Looking to start hoarding parts for an engine rebuild next year just as a precaution, but it's been a great project so far and I'm loving the car.
It's definitely one I'll be keeping for the long term.
Picture of it cleaned up in this thread as well.
The hood is not fully latched sitting in the garage here.
01-06-22, 08:37 PM
) ...and I like them (somewhat); I just helped a friend of mine buy a 350Z a lil over a month ago. And yes, you're gna work on that car a lot less (and you can get one for a lot cheaper than mid $20s), but at the end of the day you have to ask yourself are you willing to commit your time and money to something that is going to demand greatness from you? The FD is really gna test your patience and resilience in it's current state. The Z will be cheaper in the long run so it's probably the smarted decision, but I'm not your financial advisor. If I was, I wouldn't have 2 rotary powered cars. SO worth it though, nothing more rewarding.
