Fellow forum goers...

I come requesting some brake advice. Recently rebuilt the rear brakes, front brakes, master cylinder, new low mile brake lines, new speed bleeders, and painted the brake booster (took out of vehicle but did not adjust anything else).

**For the record, I started rebuilding the master cylinder and painting the brake booster because it was visibly leaking. Braking was not an issue while driving, but I knew it had to be done. Upon first re-build of the master cylinder, all the the brakes were not operating well after taking out the master cylinder and re-installing. So I went a did a full re-build, finding multiple stuck pistons and corrosion throughout.**

My current issue post rebuild is that the rear brakes do not fully release when driving, or it appears so, as I can hear the pads audibly dragging on the rotors. Front brakes are no problem, just the rears.

After a first crack at re-building the master cylinder, I did not properly bench bleed the master and it locked up again. Another try and after bench bleeding the **** out of it, we were good to go. First test drive and the wheels were spinning lovely in the front and all braking was working smoothly (no issues stopping at all), but pads were dragging in the rear (could hear it easily). After the initial rear caliper rebuild, I noticed the e-brake insert wasn't operating entirely smoothly, but I packed it with plenty of grease and manually moved it for a bit on the bench which seemed to loosen it up.

After the initial test drive, I thought maybe the e-brake was not releasing properly. The FSM says to have 7-10 audible clicks on the e-brake handle, so I tightened it up a bit...that only made it worse. So I loosened it back up back to where it was. I re-bled the brakes and no changes to be had. The rear pistons upon install turned back into the calipers with no issues at all, moving in very easily with pliers.

I dug through some other posts about how if you switch the E-Brake pin inserts from left to right or vice versa, things will not operate properly. They are labeled correctly and I can confirm they were installed correctly. E-Brake is operating fine at this point, but for some reason the pads won't fully release.

I know with the rear differential the wheels will be harder to spin than the front, but to me they just seem tougher than they should.

Summary of steps completed:

1. Full front and rear caliper and piston re-build (done to spec with the FSM).
2. Master cylinder rebuild - bench bled with no air and installed properly.
3. Brake booster pulled and painted, then re-installed. The push rod and brake pedal were not altered at all.
4. New pads installed.
5. Full system bleed.

I feel like I'm missing something obvious at this point...I need someone to smack me upside the head and just let me know I missed something. Brake pads are just OEM replacements, curious if there is a lengthy break in period? I feel like it shouldn't be that much, but I'm at a loss at this point.

Any advice is welcome!

Cheers,

-milly

 

Do you have rhe springs and clips installed in the rear pads? Specifically the springs... they are what keep tension on the pads outward so they don't drag

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...arched-409867/

Little more on that spring.

Also there are pegs on the brake pads that fit into the slots on the rear caliper pistons. The pistons should be turned with a caliper tool all the way in and the slots should point such that the peg fits perfectly in the slot when sliding the caliper in place.

Dale

 

Thanks for the response FDAUTO. Both springs and clips are installed…believe they are accurate according to the other post Dale pointed out below.

Thanks for the response guys. RE-bled the system for extra measure and I will verify the proper fittings of the clips and springs. As they are right now I believe everything is accurate. But I will verify and report back.

-milly