Brake issues
Brake issues
I was driving to my friends house and on the way the car started getting sluggish. I quickly realized the brakes were on. I wasn't pushing the pedal and the e-brake was not on or stuck. It quickly got to the point where I would not move unless I was in 1st at 4k rpm. ( I only did that to pull over to the side of the road.) When I pulled over my front brakes were smoking. I had the car towed to my house, jacked it up, took the wheels off and still couldnt turn the rotors by hand at all. The pistons were not returning in the front or rear. So I decided to bleed the brakes. After a couple pumps on the passenger rear the seal broke and started squirting brake fluid at the caliper.
So my questions are...
1. What would cause all the pistons to stick? My guess was the master cylinder which I replaced with a remanufactured one my friend gave me. Is that about the only thing that could cause that?
2. Would buying a rear caliper rebuild kit from mazdatrix http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-2400-FB02 be ok or should I replace the whole caliper?
Thanks in advance
So my questions are...
1. What would cause all the pistons to stick? My guess was the master cylinder which I replaced with a remanufactured one my friend gave me. Is that about the only thing that could cause that?
2. Would buying a rear caliper rebuild kit from mazdatrix http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-2400-FB02 be ok or should I replace the whole caliper?
Thanks in advance
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 231
Likes: 1
From: Calgary, Alberta
I don't know much about 1, but unless the bores or pistons are damaged you should be fine with a rebuild kit. No need to replace perfectly good chunks of metal.
Maybe this is some kind of malfunction with the brake booster? Applying the brakes without pedal input? Those things are sort of like magic to me, no idea how they work inside.
Maybe this is some kind of malfunction with the brake booster? Applying the brakes without pedal input? Those things are sort of like magic to me, no idea how they work inside.
meh
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 801
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee
It would have to be something with the master cylinder out of adjustment or maybe some crazy malfunction with the ABS (if you have ABS). You should be fine with a rebuild kit, but if you aren't sure you can pick up reman'ed calipers for a pretty low price.
So my questions are...
1. What would cause all the pistons to stick? My guess was the master cylinder which I replaced with a remanufactured one my friend gave me. Is that about the only thing that could cause that?
Your pistons didn't "stick"...for some reason (most likely the recent MC install), the hydraulics wouldn't allow them to retract.
This is not just a pedantic nuance as it allows you to ignore the calipers as the root issue.
I would certainly inspect all the calipers now but I believe they were a casualty of the MC not the main culprit.
There are TWO pushrod clearances to consider when installing a MC...the pedal>booster pushrod (definitely the easiest to adjust) and the booster>MC pushrod (typically not an issue when replacing stock with stock parts).
The freeplay in the pedal>booster rod must be set when the brakes are at operating temp.
This allows for the expansion of fluid in the circuit when it's heated up.
Don't allow for this expansion (i.e., little to no freeplay when the system is cold) and the effect is the same as increasingly riding the pedal.
Basically, exactly the situation you described.
2. Would buying a rear caliper rebuild kit from mazdatrix http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-2400-FB02 be ok or should I replace the whole caliper?
Thanks in advance
I'd redo what you have.
No no I have since installed a master cylinder. I believe the old one was the culprit. Although I did forget to set the pushrod clearance. I have yet to test it with the new mc because the rear caliper was squirting after I installed it
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