HELP, DID ISTAR'S Turbo Troubleshooting!
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HELP, DID ISTAR'S Turbo Troubleshooting!
Hey, I did the troubleshooting on the Istar web page, and this is what I showed!
(1) When I revved it to 5000, the turbo pre-control actuator rod DID NOT MOVE like it is supposed to! What does this mean is wrong? Pills? what?
(2) When I checked the vaccuum chamber/pressure tank storage capabilities, the Turbo Control Actuator, did NOT completely move, it almost "flinched".
Please help with all of this!
Thanks,
Ravi
(1) When I revved it to 5000, the turbo pre-control actuator rod DID NOT MOVE like it is supposed to! What does this mean is wrong? Pills? what?
(2) When I checked the vaccuum chamber/pressure tank storage capabilities, the Turbo Control Actuator, did NOT completely move, it almost "flinched".
Please help with all of this!
Thanks,
Ravi
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1.) Settle down
2.) Quick test, just follow these steps.
A. Remove the Y-Pipe to IC duct and plug the holes with some rags.
B. There are two 4mm hoses running parallel together and are closest to the Alternator. They Shoot straight down. Remove both of them and hook up a vacuum pump to one of the pipes going down.
If they come off easy, and or cracked, blown out then you found 80% of your problems.
C. Apply vacuum to the line that leads to the vacuum side of the Turbo Control Acutor. Check for the actuator are movement.
D. Apply Pressure to the Pressure side of the turbo control actuator and again check for movement.
E. If the actuator does not move with one or more test, then you may have a leak in the lower hoses that connect to the actuator and you will need to replace them, and apply pressure directly to the actuator to test the actuator.
F. If the actuator does not move when hooked up directly to the vacuum and pressure then there is 99% of your problem.
G. If you the actuator moves with both test then there is a leak in the hoses between these two hoses and your pressure and vacuum chambers.
Good luck
2.) Quick test, just follow these steps.
A. Remove the Y-Pipe to IC duct and plug the holes with some rags.
B. There are two 4mm hoses running parallel together and are closest to the Alternator. They Shoot straight down. Remove both of them and hook up a vacuum pump to one of the pipes going down.
If they come off easy, and or cracked, blown out then you found 80% of your problems.
C. Apply vacuum to the line that leads to the vacuum side of the Turbo Control Acutor. Check for the actuator are movement.
D. Apply Pressure to the Pressure side of the turbo control actuator and again check for movement.
E. If the actuator does not move with one or more test, then you may have a leak in the lower hoses that connect to the actuator and you will need to replace them, and apply pressure directly to the actuator to test the actuator.
F. If the actuator does not move when hooked up directly to the vacuum and pressure then there is 99% of your problem.
G. If you the actuator moves with both test then there is a leak in the hoses between these two hoses and your pressure and vacuum chambers.
Good luck
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for the record that guide is wrong, you may not see the TCA move when doing that. Previous post is completely correct. Test you pre-control for operation outlined in shop manual, and check that selnoids works. This one is easy as you only have to remove the presure chamber to get to it.
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Originally posted by KZ1
for the record that guide is wrong, you may not see the TCA move when doing that. Previous post is completely correct. Test you pre-control for operation outlined in shop manual, and check that selnoids works. This one is easy as you only have to remove the presure chamber to get to it.
for the record that guide is wrong, you may not see the TCA move when doing that. Previous post is completely correct. Test you pre-control for operation outlined in shop manual, and check that selnoids works. This one is easy as you only have to remove the presure chamber to get to it.
Thanks,
Ravi
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