Z32 brake upgrade
#26
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All i have to say is the brakes that come on FC's are bigger than the standard equipment on some TRUCKS! Also +1 on having good tires, when i went from no name 205 55 16s to toyo proxes T1-s 225 45 17s it was like night and day road holding and braking became amazing instantly, i can't wait to install my Hawk HPS pads, coated stainless lines and fresh cut rotors on my TII, its going to be ******* amazing!
Umm guys.. I think this has gona a little Off topic..
and as for braking general in theory... if "bigger brakes only decrease brake fade, not increase braking power"
I thought the point of going with bigger brakes was to have bigger rotors (i.e. more torque) and more pad surface creates alot more friction and braking force?
and as for braking general in theory... if "bigger brakes only decrease brake fade, not increase braking power"
I thought the point of going with bigger brakes was to have bigger rotors (i.e. more torque) and more pad surface creates alot more friction and braking force?
reason i brought this topic up... i've been taking my car to autoX events lately..
my car has deleted ABS, and a decent amount of meat on the brake pads...
pedal feel is alright..
on my original 15" rims and 205 tires.. I used to lock up the brakes without much difficulty...
i've now got 235/17's all around.. with Advan A046's...
now my brakes are failing me... they don't overheat... I never get out of first gear in the course anyway.. have to ride the limiter on occasion..
but i feel the brakes just don't have enough "bite" (i even leave it in gear with feeble hopes of some "engine braking" effect not that there is any)
what I mean by bite..
is the initial bite is good.. and braking is good if u just wanna slow down... it's when u need to come to almost or a complete stop.. i feel like the "weight" of the car over powers them.. and the last part of the braking is poor
as mentioned perhaps an overhaul of the whole braking system, slotted Rotors, aftermarket "race" like pads, and Motul fluid would be enough to put the "bite" back in to the system..
I would like to track the car on the F1 circuit.. but I don't have confidence in the brakes
my car has deleted ABS, and a decent amount of meat on the brake pads...
pedal feel is alright..
on my original 15" rims and 205 tires.. I used to lock up the brakes without much difficulty...
i've now got 235/17's all around.. with Advan A046's...
now my brakes are failing me... they don't overheat... I never get out of first gear in the course anyway.. have to ride the limiter on occasion..
but i feel the brakes just don't have enough "bite" (i even leave it in gear with feeble hopes of some "engine braking" effect not that there is any)
what I mean by bite..
is the initial bite is good.. and braking is good if u just wanna slow down... it's when u need to come to almost or a complete stop.. i feel like the "weight" of the car over powers them.. and the last part of the braking is poor
as mentioned perhaps an overhaul of the whole braking system, slotted Rotors, aftermarket "race" like pads, and Motul fluid would be enough to put the "bite" back in to the system..
I would like to track the car on the F1 circuit.. but I don't have confidence in the brakes
#27
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The problem stated above is due to the pad selection. A more aggressive pad selection will have more initial bite and with a higher coefficient of friction will be able to give more power for a given pressure. Something like the HP+ can be good there, they've got fairly high torque but they are noisy and dusty. If they were just crappy generic pads you may be encountering pad fade.
Big brakes do increase the power of the brakes, but stops won't get shorter unless you'd previously lost the ability to provide sufficient torque to lock the wheels. They are perfectly adaquate for 2400lb race cars running 9.5" wide slicks and ~200whp. But the TII guys will be heavier, faster down the straights and slower around the corners, giving the brakes a real torture test. You can't really reasonably expect any car's brakes to withstand doubling the power or more and taking it to the track on R's and having it survive perfectly. At that point then a big brake kit is always needed. Two piece rotors for the stock brakes are available through AWR FWIW.
As I said before from what I read it would seem that Z32 300ZX brakes are NO BIGGER than ours, and the calipers look about the same. So much for an "upgrade". I also listed a number of other possible swaps, and provided a link to another kit to adapt FD stuff to the FC.
If you want better feel on an NA, then installing the TII MC and booster would be a good idea, as it's bigger and should help. Also, installing an MC brace is HIGHLY RECCOMENDED. Its not hard to make one and it does good things for feel by reducing firewall flex. Get a friend to stand on the pedal while you look at the MC and you'll see it flexing up and out. SS or new OEM lines also will help, as the old stock lines will be quite soft by now and should be replaced anyway.
My car has SS lines and an MC brace and the brakes feel awesome, even compared to my uncle's Porsche Cayman S they still feel good.
Big brakes do increase the power of the brakes, but stops won't get shorter unless you'd previously lost the ability to provide sufficient torque to lock the wheels. They are perfectly adaquate for 2400lb race cars running 9.5" wide slicks and ~200whp. But the TII guys will be heavier, faster down the straights and slower around the corners, giving the brakes a real torture test. You can't really reasonably expect any car's brakes to withstand doubling the power or more and taking it to the track on R's and having it survive perfectly. At that point then a big brake kit is always needed. Two piece rotors for the stock brakes are available through AWR FWIW.
As I said before from what I read it would seem that Z32 300ZX brakes are NO BIGGER than ours, and the calipers look about the same. So much for an "upgrade". I also listed a number of other possible swaps, and provided a link to another kit to adapt FD stuff to the FC.
If you want better feel on an NA, then installing the TII MC and booster would be a good idea, as it's bigger and should help. Also, installing an MC brace is HIGHLY RECCOMENDED. Its not hard to make one and it does good things for feel by reducing firewall flex. Get a friend to stand on the pedal while you look at the MC and you'll see it flexing up and out. SS or new OEM lines also will help, as the old stock lines will be quite soft by now and should be replaced anyway.
My car has SS lines and an MC brace and the brakes feel awesome, even compared to my uncle's Porsche Cayman S they still feel good.
#28
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Flush the brake fluid and refill w/ good hi-temp stuff, like SVT or something. You'd be surprised how much brake fluid heats up even in 5-10 mins. I've had cheap AutoZone brake fluid boiling in 10 mins of hard downhill running, also pads started to fade at the same time (cheap pads).
Good clean fluid and good pads can make a lot of difference. Also stainless braided brake lines can improve feel slightly.
Good clean fluid and good pads can make a lot of difference. Also stainless braided brake lines can improve feel slightly.
#29
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i believe the reason people think that ss lines do so much is that they are running 20 lines and 20 fluid and of course when u put brand new lines and fluid its going to make a huge difference if u can lock up your tires your braking system is adaquate u need to think about wheels and tires
the only thing holding u to the road is your tires people dont cheap out
oh yea and this huge arguement was supposed to be about the z32 brake upgrade
the only thing holding u to the road is your tires people dont cheap out
oh yea and this huge arguement was supposed to be about the z32 brake upgrade
#30
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But when talking about an upgrade its perfectly reasonable to talk about why and alternatives. Besides, I've said it twice already.
IT'S NOT AN UPGRADE, THEY'RE THE SAME SIZE!!!!!
IT'S NOT AN UPGRADE, THEY'RE THE SAME SIZE!!!!!
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