shadow7

iTrader: (3)

THANKS TO ALL OF THOSE THAT ARE TAKING THE TIME TO READ THIS!!!
when i did a search about this the thread that completely and perfectly describes my problems ends in the guy buying an aftermarker engine management system and other expensive equipment that i obviously can't afford. this has been a year long struggle. i have read countless threads about this and have replace, fixed, rebuilt and checked every single emission related component.

here's whats been done:

Stock 87 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II with exception of exhaust= 2.5 DP, MP, bonez high flow cat and N1 catback and apex'i dual chamber BOV

all emission solenoid and sensors have been checked
new catalityc convertor (Bonez high flow unit)
brand new bosch Oxygen sensor
refurbished AFM
checked for vacuum leaks (one was found and eliminated)
air pump has been checked and is working properly
car was missing all air injection components, all has been bought and installed
both BAC valve and AWS valves have been installed (they were missing)
for 30 minutes before the emission test i run 87 octane on the car (no premix) and i run her hard.

after all these changes car was taken to a local car shop here in San Diego and the mechanic didnt even charge me because he said he really could't anything for me. he stated that he checked for all smog related componets and everything with the exception of the BOV looked good. i then asked why it was that i wasnt passing, he replied that the car had to be tunned because it was running super rich under load and that i would have to take it somewhere else.

with all this said i'm hoping to see if anyone here would be kind enough as to direct me on what i can do to tune the car myself here at my house since i've been rejected by most auto shops around and i cannot afford to take the car to a major tunner garage at the moment.
i need to know what parts i need to adjust and to what factory specs to adjust to.

all help is greatly appreciated.

boostinfc3s

Could it be that your BOV is making your car run rich? It seems like you have everything back to normal except the BOV. So a little process of elimination? hope it helps.

shadow7

iTrader: (3)

the BOV is definately affecting however its so minimal that it wouldn't cause the car to actually fail emissions.

i was just talking over the phone with one of the "older" SD rotorheads and he was telling me that i might have to mess around with the air bypass valves, BAC valve, AFM and the Rich Lean fuel ***.

anybody know about this????

Icemark

The air pump/ACV is hooked up wrong or the cat is smoked/bad.

Take the air pump output directly to the cat. If the ACV is not working correctly it could be dumping the air pump's air out, instead of into the cat.

I would also double check the TPS, as it appears that you are running richer at 1500/1800 RPM than you should.

If you look at the emissions chart you will see the possible causes for low RPM issues:



You'll notice that is suggests that you need a tune up (replace spark plugs, spark plug cables, air filter, fuel filter, and oil & filter) or you have a bad cat.

shadow7

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the good info icemark, i will look into it. the chart i have seen before but its a good reminder. i'll make sure to post an update

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

I would also suggest disconnecting the waste gate rod when you run it through. If you are running rich in negative pressure, I don't even want to imagine positive pressure.

KillaKitiie

This is absolute GOLD right here if he didnt post this i was about too!

You can smog anything with this chart!

HAILERS

I stole from Wikipedia. Do NOT read the whole thing. Just the underlined parts.

Then read the second JPG.

Then I suggest your going into closed loop at 25mph which results in a 14.7 afr, but I don't think your going into close loop in the 25mph test.

I have doubt the ACV is connected up right. See the third jpg of how stuff should be connected up right on a series four turbo car.

I think the catalytic converter might have seen its best days.

I won't say what I think about the talk about AWS/BAC. It's too negative.

I'd buy a singel LED from RadioShack and install it in the green, six socket test connector near the Lead coil assy. Add enough wire to reach the cabin. Route thru the door opening. You won't crush 'em.

Fully hot engine, steady 40mph should equal a steady flashing of the LED as long as you don't go downhill. Proves the closed loop works. Then try the same at 25mph and then 15mph and see how things work out.

jackhild59, a forum member with big ears, recommends the item seen in the fourth jpg. SEARCH FOR jackhild59 threads on emissions. Jack has big ears and has b.o. some humor there somewhere.

I don't care to follow up on this thread.